Alfama-rama

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Our love affair with Lisbon continues.

Our weekends of long walks prepared us well for our 7 hour stroll up and down hills today in the welcome hot sun.

On the way to the Alfama we rode up an ancient lift - Elevador Santa Justa which used to run by steam and lifts people from one level of the city waaay up to another with stunning views. We watched street performers and sated Will's gelato craving. We hung out on squares and plazas.

The Alfama is an old working class district that survived Lisbon's BIG earthquake - some streets are incredibly narrow and there are people everywhere dodging trams. We explored many old churches and found our own back road routes where we saw poor Roma families living in public squares across the street from thewalled-in richest homes of the rich with huge glass walls inviting peeks at a distance of statues and art. The juxtaposition was a strong one for the kids and through the trip they are asking questions. Marika is always ecxpressive about her concern and growing understanding about the most basic and important questions surrounding poor people and families.

Trees bursting with fireworks of purple flowers. Our lunch was at Cercle Moures at the lookout of Miradora de Santa Luzia. Will, Kim and I had 'salty tart'whiich is a hefty serving of cold salt cod and anchovy quiche with onion - it was a perfect counterpoint to the hot sun. Marika had a chicken wrap and we all had cold ice teas.

Finally we reached the top of the rise and spent a long time exploring the old Castle of Sant Jorges -- started in the 6th century and rebuilt over the years. Running along ramparts and climbing towers. Old structures like this are a new experience for both Marika and Will.

A sudden downpour found everyone cozying up under awnings wiith whomever was closest. The deluge lasted about 15 minutes and then cleared leaving a fresh smell - amazing how fast the tiled and cobblestoned walkways dried up.

For dinner we wolfed down a classic Portuguese dinner of chicken brined and roasted on a spit - tender salty and sweet with a small ceramic pot at the table full of spicy piri-piri oil. Prior to the meal artisan buns were served with a cake of swoft mild cheese - like a slightly sweet and very light cream cheese - more cake-like in texture than creamy.

One last look out at the lit up city from our roooftop terrace and off to bed.

Oh yes - Marika has a new friend - the high tech hot chocolate machine at breakfast on the terrace of our hotel.

Will's quote about the Castle - "The view, the oldness, the cannons - wow".

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Photos

Alfama
The Miradour de Santa Luzia lookout in Alfama where clay-tilked jumbled buildings appear to tumble down the hill towards the Tagus River.

Comments

[Pauline]

Trip
Wow, I really envy you guys. You are seeing great old buildings (my favorite) not to mention eating great food (another of my favorites - ha ha). Look forward to your next entry Bruce. Take care and have fun.