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Published: October 18th 2007
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Bull Ring - Vila Franca
Note the telegraph pole and the brave men with their feet on the ground. Bom Dia Bo & Dud,
Thought we needed a mid-week update, so much is happening at the moment. Don’t know if I mentioned but this weekend has been a Bank Holiday. We were told about a festival that was ‘not to be missed’. The village of Vila Franca de Xira lies just outside Lisbon on the north bank of the Tagus River; the village is known for being one of the prime places for bull breeding in Portugal. Twice each year they have a festival which involves running the bulls, and bull fights. The main street of the village is split into 3 sections; a bull is ‘run out’ into each section and then sensible people like us watch from the grandstand as the young men ‘have a go’. Some are braver than others (personally I think that they are all quite mad), they step into the ring and taunt the bull. Some leave both hands free to make a quick escape up the fence; others use capes, jackets and the occasional umbrella to entice the beast towards them.
As you can see from one of the photographs, to one side of the ring is a sort of telegraph
pole affair which has a couple of ladders and ropes attached - it also has a small BBQ on a rope (which can be hoisted up the pole), and a ledge for placing the necessary beverages (early bar starts very early on these occasions - the photograph was taken about 10.30 am). The men around this area do not take any chances, and spend their time up the ladders balancing a glass in one hand and a bit of sausage in the other.
After about an hour the bull is looking rather fed up of the whole affair - this is when the aficionados enter the ring (complete with poles with spikes on the end) and half a dozen extremely well trained oxen. They all trot up to the bull; the oxen encircle him and escort him back into the bull ring.
We were unable to attend one of the bull fights - in Portugal the bull is not killed in the ring. The following has been described to me in broken English by a wonderful elderly man who spent 2 years in England. The reason for the running of the bulls as I have described above is
Not so brave
No thinking required on this one. to encourage the young men into the bull ring (talk about cheap entertainment). Yes, there is the taunting of the bull by the Toreadors and Matadors but in Portugal the main event is about man against beast. After the bull has been tired out by the professionals 5 young men have to wrestle the bull to the ground - the poor sod who draws the short straw gets the head; he has to place a cap affair on the bull’s head which also covers its horns. The audience, I was told, sits in complete silence and only once the bull is on the ground do they explode into enthusiastic applause, whistling and shouting. It is frowned upon if a bull is injured during the course of the fight. I asked my friend what happens to the bull after the fight is over; well, he said, it is taken into the green pastures outside Lisbon for a week’s holiday before being taken to slaughter. It would not do he said to kill it immediately as the beast would be too tense and the meat would not be tender.
It has taken us ages to choose the photographs for this week’s
Action with umberella
This young man was the bravest of them all letter - we took so many. We hope they are a good reflection of the action.
Our other outing this week was on the train - we’re getting very adventurous. There was a bus which we were able to catch from outside the site into Cascais and then the train into Lisbon (€7 return for both of us - bargain). The journey is lovely; the track runs along the sea front for most of the travelling time. When we came out of the station things got a little confused, our free map was not up to much and we went full circle before having to ask for directions; but, as they say, things happen for a reason. We came across a restaurant with half a dozen tables outside and a man cooking fish on a BBQ - there seemed to be a sudden rush from the locals so we sat down very quickly and were presented with a menu in Portuguese. The sardines tasted as good as they looked - served with huge boiled potatoes, a green salad with a few slices of tomato and dressed in lemon, olive oil and sea salt - food for the Gods.
and still the bull got closer
Neat wrist action with the umbrella There were many tours around Lisbon to choose from, walking, bus, road train or the old Lisbon trams - we couldn’t resist the tram ride. The ride took us around the historic area of Lisbon - winding streets and traditional houses. Until reminded, we had forgotten about the earthquake which completely flattened Lisbon in 1755; so everything that we see today is from that time onwards. The Elevador de Santa Justa is the best ‘lift’ that I have ever come across and from the top the whole of Lisbon can be seen. At some points on the tram, it was a white knuckle ride as we hurtled along tight, winding streets with other trams, cars pedestrians and kids hitching a ride (much to the tram drivers’ annoyance). Every street in Lisbon goes up - remember I said that there were walking tours, you should have seen the state of some of the participants and the temperature was over 30c in the heart of the city. We also saw the narrowest house in Lisbon - 1.5 meters deep back to front along its whole length; flat pack furniture perhaps and bunk beds? I would have loved to have been able to
Show off with 'real' cape
Those who didn't have a cape used their jackets - don't know what Mum thought when they got home! go inside and take a look around but someone actually lives there. A splendid day out and a mention for Sheffield - the tram tracks were made by Thomas W. Wards.
We were going to head for the Algarve next but ….. during my research I came across a place in central Portugal not far from the Spanish boarder called Monsaraz. While we were talking to our friend the Dutch man he said this would be a good place to visit along with Evora - there’s a camp site at Evora - we’re on our way.
Midweek love + hugs + kisses,
H & H x
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