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Published: March 31st 2011
From Porto, we zip down the line and land in Mogofores station. It's time to spend some time with our friends the Verdades.
The Familia Verdade live in a town called Avelas de Cima. No one could tell me how old the place was, but it's easy to see that the place is pretty darn old. After the bustle of Porto, Avelas de Cima was positively tranquil. People are old fashioned and extremely friendly. It could be the community ammenities, like the communal laundry pool (in use even in frigid March) and fountains (three, to be exact) that present excellent quality spring water to any who wish to take it. Sleepy cafes with sunny seats, orange and lemon trees left wild (producing abundantly even now) and a profusion of huge, naturalized canna lilies frame the rest of the picture for you.
The Verdades home is a small village in itself. They are the centre of a considerable extended family. Music fills the yard at all hours, stray dogs arrive confident of company and nourishment and the family has a sense of hospitality is immense. From this commodious home base, we set out on numerous day trips to explore the
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Aveiro train staitionsurrounding environs.
Before you think that I am about to bore you with tales of one quaint-but-identical town after another, please set yourself at rest. Portugal is a marvel in that a few miles down the road introduces you to a new way of life.
First, to Vargos, the beautiful beaches. This is an area of tremendous surfs and pulverized sands. Men cast with rods, as long as eight feet in length, into the crashing surf.In a similar sensibility of contest, we decided to explore the illustrious history of Anglo-Portugese cooperation and defence. In the spirit of such history, we constructed a sand castle facing the sea.
To digress, the English and the Portugese have worked hand-in-hand throughout history. This is evidenced by the profusion of Port houses run by English families. To defend English interests in Portugal, several military campaigns have
been undertaken as the need has arisen. This puts my marriage to Maria in a whole new light. Though she has yet to appreciate my endeavours of salvation, the weight of history offers evidence to my side of the discussion.
Anyway, we built a castle to do battle with the incoming tide. Foolish, you
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Brother and Sister Verdades say? Ah, but what military endeavour has ever been launched on reason?
We built a grand fort, complete with moat and a garrison of defending crabs (dead, unfortunately, but still up to the task at hand). Some flotsam in the form of old buoys served as cannon to deliver the first (and assuredly LAST) volley into the ill-equipped waves. I rallied the troops. It was clear that an attack was imminent.
The first wave soaked my shoes and forced me into an embarrassing retreat. The children, in their swimming trunks, held on for a few seconds more. But it was clear that our defences were useless. As we retired to a more strategic location, we watched helplessly as our Defence of all That is Right and Pure suffered the indignities of passing children giving it the boot and even a marking of territory (Yes, the Whizz) of a passing dog. A Commander can suffer only so much humiliation, and I ordered the troops to pack up the picnic lunch and head for the hills.
Costa Nova served as a welcome distraction. This area has become a bit touristy. What was once a working fishing village
has morphed
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Kevin was just so happy to see veggi's into a bit of a trap. It really can't be helped. The penchant for local fishermen to paint their houses in a unique design involving brilliant vertical stripes on white practically calls out for the place to become kitsch. Yet, it does have a lively fish market at the Mercado de Costa Nova, the sort where fishwives shove samples of periwinkles in your face (yes, of course I ate them!) and yell like the end is nigh.All the good ingredients for actual life. In support of such endeavours, we bought a swaft of caporoau (mackerel) and headed home to fry 'em up.
Oooooooh, baby.
The vinho verde only cleansed the palate for the next delicious fishy mouthful. There was laughter, there was chatter.
There was a going to bed and a fair bit of snoring.
Kevin
Maria -
We arrived at Mogofores on a Saturday morning to find a the Verdades (Truth) family waiting for us at the train station. They were more then welcoming. We arrived at Arlindos childhood home. It used to be a working farm house, but now it was a charming home although at time colder inside then out
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Carolina making friends young, sister Rafaela side because a large part of the houses in Portugal don't have central heating. Our lunch that day was Pork Rinds Boiled Potato's and Green. Arlindo had a talk that night in a congregation -yes that night at 8:00 PM.
We left two hours early because he did not know where the hall was. The brothers where worm and every one from the oldest to the youngest shook hand or kissed on both cheeks. It was great to be with family.
The next day we hit the beaches and the area around Aveiro has fantastic sandy beaches like São Jacinto, Barra and Costa Nova. This local coast is well known as Silver Coast, due to the beautiful and clean beaches. Fishing used to be a big deal here now however only one family company still fishes the traditional way.
I was very happy to find their boat; 15 year ago I had the pleasure of helping bring in the nets with big bulls leading the way and then dividing the fish. It was allot of fun and something I will not forget.
We could not have asked for a better day of sun shine, but for our sister
Tamara it was to cold. She had on three sweaters, pants, socks and was still cold.
After this beach we went down to Costa Nova and the famous Casa de Palha or haystack houses are quite unique to these shores, individualizing them both nationally and internationally. The striped colors are so the fisherman could see them out in the ocean.
Our next stop was Barra and tallest Portuguese lighthouse (62 metres from the ground but 66 metres above sea level).
It was built between 1885 and 1893. The light can cast as far as 26 nautical miles out to sea (approx. 48 km).The tallest lighthouses in Portugal (Farol de Aveiro ou da Barra)and the second one in Europe.
This was a great end to our day tomorrow Aviero will be waiting.
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