Reflections Whilst Gliding Along the Sognefjord

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Gliding Through Serene Wilderness

I am on a ship sailing along the west coast of Norway heading north and then east from Bergen to Flåm. It’s cold outside on the top deck. I ventured outside a few times to take photos but couldn’t stay out too long due to the cold breeze that even my wind proof raincoat couldn’t withstand. It’s lovely here – so much water and sky, pine trees and fresh air. Little houses nestled high up in the forest peeping out from among the pine trees. The view must be lovely from their lounge rooms. They must have squirrels and all sorts of woodland creatures in their garden.



The mist covers the mountaintops as the ship glides through the waters. Everything feels calm and majestic. The water is like rippled glass, a beautiful jade green so unlike the dark blue choppy waters I’m accustomed to. I feel like I’m gliding through a lake in a dream. I feel blessed and elated that I should have the opportunity to be sitting here experiencing such beauty.

Wealthy as long as you can handle the dark

An old colleague of mine who had spent some time working in Norway told me that the Norwegians are rich in oil. That the government gives everyone a huge pension when they retire. But it’s dark a lot throughout the year so many get very depressed and there’s a high suicide rate. Marry a Finnish guy and you’ll be set she said. I thought of the dark winters and decided I could do without that kind of wealth.

Venice and Bergen side-by-side

The seafood here is amazing – pure like the water. In Venice they use more salt, oil and other additives to create richer flavours perhaps with less pure ingredients. The food in Bergen is pure, like the designs, like the people. Less guilded, less complicated and nice in a different way.

Venetians seemed merrier, maybe outwardly more vibrant, a busier lifestyle compared to the relaxed Finns I observed in Bergen. In Venice they sold glass trinkets and glitter-covered masks. In Bergen, they sell simplified minimalist sculptures of animals and designer homeware that would not look out of place in a modern architecture exhibition. In Venice I was constantly surrounded by busy people. I felt like I was in an ants colony or a bee hive. In Bergen, I am surrounded by water and pine trees.

The Sonefjord

The ship has entered into the Sonefjord now. We are just past half way to our destination. More pretty houses perched on the mountainside by the water. It looks like something out of “The Sound of Music”.

The ship is gliding past mountains with snow-covered peaks. I feel like I have finally reached the pinnacle of this trip. The scenery inspires me to consider going on a volunteering trip next, to do something worthwhile for the world. I spot waterfalls on the mountainside. I am guessing that the water in those waterfalls are even more amazing than the water in the taps.

For lunch, I ate a hot dog rolled up in a piece of bacon from the ships café, surprisingly tasty. The hot dog bun was toasted which helped turn what would otherwise be a spongy squidgy non-event into something resembling nice bread.

It’s very peaceful seeing landscape by ship, at least when there are no waves. I am fascinated by the colours and textures in the rocks by the waters edge. I love the patterns made by the clouds in the sky. The colours of the forest and little wooden houses are reflected in the dappled water. Then I spot the first and only bit of graffiti I saw on the trip – what a shame.

The ship is almost at Flåm now. We are going through the narrowest fjord in Europe according to the announcement. It reminds me of the scene in “Lord of the Rings” where Aragorn sails through a calm waterway flanked by two enormous statues of long dead kings. Everything is so green and lush. Not like the deep damp green of a rainforest, but the crisp green of conifers.

Train back from Flåm

Flåm was pretty. Too small to be called a village really. Just a dozen charming cottages set up as restaurants and guest houses tucked between the mountains. It’s a truly beautiful spot. In the two hours I had before the train departed, I managed to test out my new camera and enjoy a three-course-buffet lunch in beautiful sunshine, and yes, sipping a glass of champagne.

The train journey was much quicker than the journey on the ship. Less scenic but equally lovely in a different way. On the ship, I felt like I was gliding past something special. On the train, I felt like I tunneling through the scenery.

I must have spent eight hours travelling today, perhaps too many hours in one day. I thought perhaps I should have caught the train from Flåm to Oslo instead of coming back to Bergen as I felt that I had already seen most of Bergen…. (The amazing journalist/humanitarian I sat next to on the plane back told me this would not have been a good idea, having only one half day in Oslo, and being from Bergen, she definitely had a bias).

Last dinner in Bergen

I felt obliged to have a final feast on my last night in Bergen. Unfortunately I was still full from the three course lunch and having sat on a train / ship all day, I didn’t use most of that energy. My creamy fish soup entree was interesting containing prawns, perhaps white fish or dumpling (I couldn’t really tell) and strips of thinly sliced crunchy vegetables, perhaps carrots, radish and shallots. The crunchy vegetables provided a nice texture contrast. I knew I was in trouble half way through the soup but persevered feeling that I couldn’t cancel the monkfish main that was coming up next, yet feeling torn at the food waste that I knew was coming. My self-inflicted onslaught of food is over exerting my digestive system that was threatening to go on strike. The walk back to the hotel helped!

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