A Very Full Day

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We really didn't plan on it being such a full day--it just sort of happened. Today was such a contrast with yesterday--a clear blue sky and breeze instead of wind and rain. This city is all canals, bricks, bicycles and bridges. Everybody walks, cycles, takes public transportation; so few drive their own vehicles. It's such a different style of life. The streets both nights (even in the rain) were still full of people walking and riding their bikes. You have to be careful to know where to walk--there is the brick designated for the train or car, a different pattern, color or slight elevation for the bikes and pedestrians. The people on scooters and bikes didn't stop or slow down for anybody in their path.

We started at the Rijks Museum, a magnificent building that houses a very eclectic collection of art. They have the most amazing Rembrandt room; it really is indescribable. The building is its own masterpiece as I would have been happy to just sit there and marvel at the talent of the builders and craftspeople who contributed their artistry. It's just one of many places I have visited this week that are on my list "I'll be back" list.

Since it was such a clear, sunny day we decided to walk to our next destination: Anne Frank House Museum. That sounds a bit incongruent doesn't it? Well, after going through the property, seeing the attic, getting reacquainted with the girl I first met when I was 12 and read her diary for the first time. I have read it several times since and am always humbled to in my gratitude that I had the good fortune to be born a Jewish girl in America and not in Europe and that my parents' families had emigrated here before there ever was a war.

The movement through the "Secret Attic" as Anne Frank had termed it was a somber, respectful group. There were a lot of people there; we had purchased tickets in advance so we didn't have to stand in line, but people were around the block. We basically snaked through the building, much as we had at Tower of London, with everyone really quiet. It was actually a bit eerie because at one point all we could here were footsteps of people walking upstairs and someone talking in the distance. I couldn't help but wonder what it must have been like for the eight people who lived here and the four who helped them. Their hearts must have stopped every time they heard something that sounded like someone coming close. It must have been so unnerving--it just gives me shivers. Seeing the houses so close together, it is also so much easier to understand the risk of trying to hide someone when families literally share walls.

Did I happen to mention that it was a bright sunny day? We walked to the Portuguese Synagogue which is the second-oldest synagogue in Europe. I'm not sure what I was expecting, but this wasn't what I thought I would see. It was traditional in the sense of the men being on the first floor, women in a balcony and the placement of the bimah and ark in relation to one another. It was elegant in a very simple way. The big surprise was all the chandeliers and the number of candles it took to keep them all lit. They are huge brass chandeliers that are highly polished. The synagogue held such a respected place in Dutch society and government, that during WW II it was the Dutch government that persuaded the Nazis to leave the synagogue alone because of its important historical significance to the city of Amsterdam.

As a result the building was not damaged in any way, instead it was protected throughout the war to ensure that it was not damaged. Five days after the end of the war, the first of the survivors held a Sabbath service to commemorate their return. In the midst of their grief and bewilderment, the rabbi led them in the Sh'hech'he'yanu, Essentially thanking God for sustaining them and bringing them to this place. It's the traditional blessing we say for the first night of a multi-day holiday, When we see a rainbow, when some special, blessed event occurs. Generally it is associated with thanksgiving and gratitude; this is a rabbi who lost 90% of his congregation. I can't imagine being able to do that--to lead other people who have just learned they lost everything in a prayer of gratitude. It's good that he was there and could do that for them--it began the rebuilding process of the congregation.

Our last stop of the day was closing as we arrived. We thought the Jewish Historical Museum was open later than the synagogue but it turned out they closed at the same time. They were closing as we walked up and I commented that we thought they were open later. The guy turned to and said, "but it's Christmas!" OK, but it's the JEWISH Historical Museum; I'm sure we wouldn't have been the only people to have walked in--another reason to come back....

We did manage to do better in the food department today. For lunch we had none other than: Burger King! Unbelievable isn't it? Not really, they all are here, except I haven't see KFC. It was on another one of the squares with the bridge and canal; it's all real, just like the pictures. Then for dinner we went to a little Italian restaurant we found wandering around the neighborhoods. It was like a neighborhood restaurant, across the street was a Greek restaurant.

I'm heading to the airport in the morning so I can be home in Cincinnati tomorrow evening (plus another 7 hours). Nathan will be heading to Brussels to meet friends. If you want to catch the rest of his trip you'll have to follow him on Facebook. I'm going home to spend next week getting over my vacation. Fortunately we have a weekend and a holiday coming up as soon as I get home so I can rest up from my trip. Love, Margaret

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