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Published: October 26th 2012
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Montenegro literally means Black Mountain... in Italian. I first passed through Montenegro along the coast from Albania to Split, Croatia where I picked up a car and drove back to Montenegro after one night in Mostar, Bosnia.
I had the car for 10 days and dropped it off back in Split this afternoon then flew to Rome. There are way more tourists than I thought there would be but I think there is no low season here.
Budva
A purportedly happening place... but not in October. It's very scenic with a nice old town and crystal clear water along the Adriatic Sea but after the Russian oligarchs and their entourages leave at the end of the summer it is very quiet. In addition, the nearby island of Sveti Stefan has been sold to a hotel group and is now off limits to the proleteriat. The island was not sold to Russians but to investors from Singapore. Interesting...
Accommodation and food I booked a couple of nights at MOJO Hostel which was convenient to the bus station and old town. The rooms were small but they were only for 2 people and cost €8/person on hostelbookers.
WiFi on site and good filter coffee served in the morning. Fortunately I was able to cancel the second night after the first day in Budva was rather underwhelming. Close to MOJO is Villa Simona which serves great local, grilled food in mass quantities and ice cold half liters of Nikšićko beer for €1.50.
Transport Arrived from Shkodra, Albania via a change of buses in Ulcinj. The whole trip took 3:15 including the border crossing and the tickets totaled €12. Leaving Budva for Kotor, there are buses about every 20 minutes for €3 and taking a little less than an hour.
Kotor
Old town isn't quite as nice as Budva but it was much more lively. And the Bay of Kotor is very scenic.
Accommodation and food Right in the middle of old town is the appropriately named Old Town Hostel. It was surprisingly crowded even though the tourist season was definitely over. Great atmosphere but don't expect to sleep much between the sangria parties, thunderstorms, and early morning garbage collectors. Dorm prices vary depending on size. A bed in a 10 person dorm was €10 including the €1 city tax. WiFi is available
as is Turkish coffee. The hostel has a deal with a nearby restaurant where filling breakfasts cost only €2 while other meals go for €6-7.
Transport Kotor is well connected to destinations in Montenegro, Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia. I went to Dubrovnik at 8:30 am (departs every day), arrived 11:20 am for €14 (plus €1/bag). There is also a 7:10 am bus to Dubrovnik on Monday, Wednesday, and Saturday that continues to Split. Another daily bus to Dubrovnik at 2:45 pm continues to Mostar, Bosnia.
Kotor Fortress €3 entry, open 8 am - 8 pm and not to be missed for the superb views over the bay. Also a nice workout all the way to the top. There is also a peak behind the fortress that can be climbed but the weather was very rainy during my stay in Kotor.
Durmitor National Park
Nice park easily reached from Kotor or any other place in Montenegro. Weather was amazing when I was there at the end of last week. Not many tourists either. The main town is Žabljak where there is plenty of accommodation, restaurants, and the bus terminal.
Accommodation and food It took
me much longer to drive to Žabljak from Mostar than I anticipated so I stopped off at the first place advertising "sobe," or rooms which was Kablovi Travel Agency (also arrange rafting trips but the season was over). My own quiet room with share bath was €10 and WiFi was available. Across the street was the Terminal Cafe where strong Turkish coffee could be drunk as early as 7:00 am for €0.50 along with all the second hand smoke
gratis. Nothing else seemed to be open that early. Both nights I had dinner at Luna Kafe on the way to the park. I think one room in the restaurant was shockingly non-smoking.
Transport I had a car. It took 7 hours to drive from Mostar, Bosnia via lunch in Trebinje and a brief stop at Ostrog Monastery. The monastery was a bit out of the way and it's probably not a must see destination. Buses seem to travel between Nikšič and Žabljak every couple of hours or so. Leaving Žabljak I took the minor road south of Bobotov Kuk towards Plužine then north to Bosnia. Really nice drive along the Piva River about 3 hours to Tjentište in Sutjeska
National Park including a brief stop in Foča for gas and to stock up on supplies for Mt. Maglič.
Bobotov Kuk Stout hike that took me a little more than 8 hours round trip from the gated entry to the park (€4 entry for me and the car). Left the parking lot at 8:18 and reached the summit at 12:28. I took off after ~30 minutes basking in the sun on the top and was back at the car at 16:38.
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