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Published: August 31st 2012
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View over Vilnius
View from the upper castle The small nation of Lithuania is overloaded with character, conviviality and culture. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the country’s capital, Vilnius. Although the city’s difficult post-Soviet past is ever present, a newly vibrant atmosphere has successfully subdued it. As you fly into Vilnius, you’ll still catch glimpses of the old – planned streets, factories, and those diminutive ugly high-rise apartment blocks. However, the centre of Vilnius feels like another world. Gone are those horrific grey edifices, replaced with a multitude of colour.
For Vilnius, somewhat unusually, feels like a Mediterranean city. Winding cobblestone streets pass between beautifully coloured baroque buildings. Their faded blue, yellow and red façades deepen in intensity when the sun shines, while spectacular old churches appear behind every corner. You can’t help but ask yourself if you’re really in Lithuania. Oftentimes, it feels more like Naples or Milan. That’s what Vilnius is all about, really. A cacophony of forces collide in this wonderful city, making for a very special experience indeed. Traditionally an artist’s haven, Vilnius’ sad communist history has mingled with a new cosmopolitan vibe…a vibe that’s definitely worth experiencing.
The best place to start exploring the city is, without doubt, the old
Cathedral Square
The beautiful Cathedral Square in downtown Vilnius town. At 3.6 km², it is one of the largest old towns in Europe, rivalling it’s more famous counterparts of Prague and Krakow. The really special thing about Vilnius’ old town is the tremendous variation of architectural styles on offer. It was progressively constructed over several hundred years and as a result, you can find examples of Gothic and Renaissance buildings, in addition to those beautiful old Baroque creations. Pilies Street is the main thoroughfare through the old town, and it’s a great place to take time out. Relax with an espresso outside one of the street’s many cafes, nestle in and enjoy the atmosphere. It’s wonderful – the sunshine reflects off the cobblestones, while enthusiastic locals dart in and out of pink, white and yellow buildings.
Follow them into one of those buildings and you might find something very traditional – Baltic amber. It’s been used for making jewellery since the Mesolithic Period and Lithuanians love it. There’s always an extensive selection, full of creativity and style. Exiting the shop, you might just make out a redbrick fortification on the hillside in the distance. This is the Gediminas tower, part of the Vilnius Castle complex, and a national symbol of Lithuania. Before you leave the old town however, make sure you visit the Presidential Palace, the Lithuanian National Museum, and St. Anne’s church, a spectacular and flamboyant Gothic structure. The old town of Vilnius is so highly regarded internationally that it was afforded UNESCO World Heritage status in 1994.
So onwards and upwards to the Vilnius Castle complex, an indispensable part of any trip to the Lithuanian capital. You can reach it by means of a 30-second funicular ascent, opened in 2003. The complex used to consist of three main parts: the upper castle, the lower castle, and the crooked castle. Today, parts of the upper castle are all that remain, along with the Gediminas tower. Beneath its shadow, you’re afforded a commanding view of the city. Even though the Neris River dominates the scene, Vilnius’ old and new sides become readily discernible. You can see a great proportion of the city’s 65 churches from your perch on the hillside, and you can also see the imposing face of a new, more modern capital city: the glass and metal skyscrapers of Šnipiškės.
Statistics about the European Union show that Lithuania’s economy went from strength to strength since the country joined in 2004, and Šnipiškės bears testimony to this. Several skyscrapers have been constructed, including the 149 metre-tall Europa Tower, the tallest building in all three Baltic States. It towers above the city’s churches and red roofed townhouses, like some kind of grey, copper and glass behemoth. It’s mightily impressive, yet viewed with both pride and disdain by ordinary Lithuanians, some of whom believe it has outgrown Vilnius’ traditions. The Europa tower and Šnipiškės in general are bold statements that a new, modern and confident Lithuania has replaced the dreary, squalid Soviet nation of yesteryear. Walking around Šnipiškės, you might get the feeling that the district lacks soul, especially in comparison to the rest of the city. Still, somehow you can feel the positivity, the drive and the ambition. Passing over the bridge on the way out of Šnipiškės, you’ll see some impressive statues of Soviet soldiers and workers. No matter how far forward into the future you delve while you’re in Vilnius, the past is never too far behind.
Lithuanians were always expressive innovators. When you’re in Vilnius, you need to head to Užupis, a neighborhood often compared with Montmarte in Paris and Christiania in Copenhagen. It exudes a pleasant bohemian flair and attracts artists from all over the world – out of Užupis’ 7,000 residents, 1,000 of them are artists. The attitude here is distinctly laid back, and the area is packed with various curiosities. Crumbling buildings have become vivid mosaics, weeds grow wildly from gutters and loose bricks, while cats stealthily scout pavement cafés in the hope of a quick snack. A bearded artist wearing heavy blacked rimmed glasses lazily props himself up in a doorway, watching the sunset while enjoying one last drag from his cigarette. Join him and he’ll be more than willing to talk, perhaps shedding light on some of Užupis’ more bizarre quirks.
In 1997 for example, the area declared independence and renamed itself the Republic of Užupis, complete with its own border sign. Apparently, the ‘country’ has its own flag, currency, president, constitution, cabinet and national anthem, along with an army of 11 men. On April 1st of every year, Užupis celebrates its national day. The Republic is not recognised by any government and it remains unclear if the idea is serious or not. However, choosing April 1st for the national celebration may provide a clue.
Head back into the city centre and visit the beautiful and impressive Vilnius Cathedral, one of the city’s major sites. Situated on the expansive Cathedral Square, this neo-classical building may look unusual at first, especially when compared with other churches in the city. Those Mediterranean vibes may return once again, for the bell tower is distinctly separate from the church itself, something uncommon outside of Italy. After renovation work in 2006, the façade was painted an intense white colour, and it looks spectacular on a summer’s day. As you leave Cathedral Square, a location beloved by all in Lithuania, a Lada may pass by, smothering you in a choking pale of smoke. As always, the Soviet past is never far away.
After several hours exploring, its time to finish your day in Vilnius with a bite to eat and a well earned beer. Švyturys is the most common beer in Lithuania and while it’s delicious, don’t drink too many of them or you’ll experience the consequences the following morning. Soup is wildly popular in Lithuania, so why not begin with some bright pink borscht. For your main course, it’s important to choose something really traditional, like Skilandis, a sausage made from a pig’s stomach, stuffed with salted minced meat, flavoured with garlic. If you’re lucky, you might also find a restaurant serving fresh beaver. It’s an unusual taste, like a mixture between rabbit and fish. Afterwards, blow off steam and fancy some of Vilnius’ renowned nightlife. A huge multitude of charismatic pubs lie in wait. Just beware. If you’re driving, make sure you didn’t double park. Last year, in an effort to combat illegal parking and send a message of deterrence to the citizens of Vilnius,
the city’s mayor drove over a Mercedes in a tank .
Imagenote: Copyright Seamus Murphy
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