Wifi wilderness in Le Marche

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Geo: 45.2149, 12.2948

We knew before setting off to our next campsite that there was no internet provision. Somewhat unusual in this day and age, and for us it has become such a useful tool both for researching our 'go as we please' itinerary and staying in touch with friends and family, be it via Skype, email or this blog. So this entry is intended as a catch up of the past few days, though we have had short periods of connectivity at a couple of hotspots.

Anyway, our arrival at Podere Sei Poorte, near Monteciccardo, in the region of Le Marche, was not straightforward as we lost the campsite signs at one point (it was 20 feet up a pole completely separate from the other brown signs advertising tourist information) but we got there eventually after much huffing and puffing. It is a rustic site, laid out on terraces created on a former farm, on a hillside in a rural landscape, with accommodation comprising pitches, chalets, and safari tents, with communal facilities such as a pool, bar, restaurant, small shop and laundry in one main area.

Our chosen pitch, whilst large by European standards and fairly flat, did not have much shade, but pitch we did in the sunshine. However, day by day the temperatures crept up to, we think, in excess of 35 degrees, so David resourcefully erected temporary canopies across windows and the front of the awning to give us more shade from the relentless sun. At one point, our encampment put me in mind of the Clampets in the Beverley Hillbillies! It helped though. It was so hot that we resorted to putting the bottle of red wine in a bucket of water to cool down to a more pleasant temperature.

As we checked in, we were invited to go to a tasting session for wine and olive oil at the nearby Il Conventino estate. We were a bit dubious at first since we were told that there was no charge despite inclusion of a substantial amount of food. Naturally, the intention is to get you to purchase some of the goods, but eventually we decided to go along - nothing to lose since we could always jump in the car and leave. As it turned out, it proved to be an informative and enjoyable evening, and since we liked what we tasted, we bought as well.

The presentation was delivered by the Italian owner, who started the enterprise less than ten years ago, but his previous business involved deluxe reclining chairs - the type involving a remote control handset. His family had dabbled in wine making over the years, but he didn't like the taste so now produces award-winning wines and olive oil, of which he is clearly very proud as he points out the numerous certificates adorning the reception building.

In very good English, he told the assembled gathering about the vines (Sangiovese and Merlot grapes), cultivation, harvesting, through to fermentation and bottling. We started off outdoors on the picturesque hillside amongst the lush green vines, then indoors to see where the grapes are processed into the finished product, and he currently makes red, white, rose and sparkling wines. We were amazed to learn that a traditional cork costs 1€, but he also uses a far cheaper version made with a 'washer' of solid cork at either end and the middle consisting of reconstituted cork product.

He went through a similar talk in respect of his olives, including a technique using centrifugal force to remove water from the oil, which produces a superior, high-quality product.

Technical blurb over, it was then time for the nice bit - tasting his products with a selection of foods, including bruschetta, mozzarella, roast meat with vegetables, pasta tossed in a tomato-based sauce, and sweet pastries, before compiling our shopping list - we just couldn't resist! We came away with a few reds (very respectable), whites and a couple of oils - one a light, slightly nutty flavour and the other with a hint of basil. We shall enjoy sampling these in the coming weeks with memories of a most enjoyable evening.

The following morning, I had a 9.30 appointment in S. Angelo in Lizzola, 15 minutes away, for a much needed haircut (my first of this trip) while David wandered and had a cappuccino. I left the stylist to it - just asked for 'corti' in view of it being 'troppo caldo' - and I came away with a very pleasing result which was indeed short, but stylish.

That evening (Friday), the campsite was in a state of football frenzy since the majority of the clientele are Dutch and Holland were playing Spain in one of the first World Cup matches. Kick-off was due at 9pm and prior to that the terrace area had been decked out with banners and orange balloons, with guests and staff also wearing appropriate patriotic clothing, ready to watch the action on the big screen. The mood was decidedly downbeat when Spain scored first, then before half-time Holland equalised. After the break, no fewer than four additional goals were scored by Holland, each one welcomed to rapturous applause and air-punching. We left them to continue the celebrations at around 11.15pm.

One of the main reasons for choosing this site was to visit the Renaissance town of Urbino, birthplace of Raphael and site of a university. The town has been awarded the Unesco status of a World Heritage Site.

We were a bit unsure of visiting on a Saturday, fearing crowds of tourists, but were pleasantly surprised to find a central place to park with ease and not too many people. The historic town, contained within the walls is quite small and compact so you do not feel overwhelmed. After a cappuccino and a couple of dainty pastries, we 'did' the Cathedral, followed by the Palazzo Ducale, a triumph of Renaissance architecture, art and history. We hired an audio guide to inform us about features along the route, but sadly some exhibits had been removed during restoration work which was a little confusing. However, impressive features include the monumental staircase which leads up to the Ducal apartments and whilst the paintings are the prized exhibits, many marquetry panels and doors bearing fine-detailed images of the duke's interests created in tiny pieces of different woods impressed me.

Culture session over, it was time for lunch and we sought out a recommendation from the Lonely Planet guide - La Balestra (The Crossbow) - where we ordered some local specialities. Our appetiser included stuffed olives fried in breadcrumbs, and for main we couldn't resist the intriguing 'strozzapreti' which translates as 'priest stranglers'. Legend has it that the shredded pasta was designed to choke priests who would expect to eat for free in view of their status. As you can see, we survived.

Back at camp, it was England's first World Cup match, but with a local kick-off time of midnight, it was a much more subdued affair. David went along, mainly to show support to the campsite staff as much as anything, but the final score of Italy 2 - England 1 was half-expected, but the Dutch contingent were full of sympathy and commiseration.

On Sundays, the restaurant puts on 'Capo's Brunch' where for 15€ per person you can enjoy a fine buffet, drinks (fizz, juice and coffee) included so excellent value. From 11am, the terrace is set out with long tables and you take your seat alongside fellow campers as well as the staff. On arrival, we were greeted with a glass of prosecco (carafes on the table too for top ups or orange juice if the bubbles get too much for you) with Italian classics by Andrea Boccelli playing in the background. After a welcome from Sietske (her husband Hans was unusually absent back in Holland visiting their daughter), the site owner, eating began from the huge spread of pastries, bruschetta, salads, fruit, yoghurts, and so on.

The rest of the day was considerably cooler than of late which made packing away more comfortable. However, during the night it began to rain and continued to do so as we left for Sottomarina - across the lagoon from Venice. We expect this to be our final Italian stop before going on to Croatia.

Glad to be back online now at Camping Miramare which is quite a different atmosphere to our last few sites, but hope to get out on the bikes as there are some dedicated routes round and about.

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