A Great Trip and Good Eats


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Europe » Italy » Umbria » Montone » Coldipozzo
June 11th 2009
Published: June 11th 2009
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Additional maps: The Area around Coldipozzo

We just came back from a wonderful Spring month in Umbria. We are lucky to have a second home in the area of Coldipozzo, just below the most beautiful of Umbrian walled towns, Montone. It was just spectacular! Not to pat myself on the back, but we did bring the sun. We arrived in Rome on May 6th from Newark NJ in the early afternoon to a beautiful day. Got the car and headed toward Perugia. 2 1/2 hours later we were unlocking our front door. The area around the house was frantic with farmer activity. Summer wheat had been planted and small vineyards were being cultivated. The area shepherds were herding flocks from paddock to paddock. What a welcome home. That night we went into the Niccone Valley which connects that northern part of Umbria with Cortona and Tuscany. We are going to Calagrana!!! A most perfect Restaurant, and I think one of the best in Italy. It sits half way up a hill, below Bastia Creti, an area of very expensive villas, and above some beautiful working farms. Calagrana is an Agriturismo and Ristorante; which means that it is a small working farm that is a bed & breakfast as well as a restaurant. And what a restaurant it is! I had, as an Antipasti, primavera asparagi sormontato con un uovo al tegamino il burro e tartufo / spring asparagus with a fried egg and truffle butter. Michael had the fegato di pollo e Pane tostato con peperoncino marmellata / smooth chicken liver with a sweet hot pepper jam and toasted bread. The best. For seconds I had strongozzi alla Norcia / pasta with a sauce from Norcia. Michael gets weak in the knees for risotto con quaglia / risotto with quail. For the main course we split a mista alla griglia con patate fritte e insalata verde / mixed grill with french fries and a green salad. For dessert we had the torta al cioccolato caldo / hot chocolate cake. What a way to spend a first night back. The Agriturismo and Ristorante is owned and run by Alberto and Elly Chiappa with their daughter Sophia. There is a lovely and large Casa Colonica that is the properties inn with beautifully furnished rooms. The restaurant is in a seperate new building but done in the old style. This is where the magic happens. The food, the service, the wine and the view; all combine to say this is Italy. Heads hit our pillows that night with very sweet dreams of meals to follow at Calagrana.

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