Advertisement
image
First shot of Zurich After more than a year of planning we are finally underway on our grand European tour. It has been nearly 40 years since Julie or I have been to Europe so we are looking forward to new adventures.
Days 1 & 2 Wednesday 27 May and Thursday 28 May First leg Sydney to Hong Kong, then to Zurich In typical fashion we leave home much earlier than needed and there are no traffic hassles as Clair drives us to the airport (thanks Clair). So we arrive at 7.45 to find the aircraft is delayed by 45 minutes until 11.50. And so begins what is to be a long day of waiting and filling in time at airports. Such are the joys of long distance travel, nevertheless we are very excited about the journey ahead and we are very comfortable in business class, it could be worse! I manage to listen to state of origin on internet radio, I hope Clair and Adam enjoyed being at the game. We arrive in Hong Kong pretty much on time after an uneventful flight and settle in to the Cathay lounge for a 6 hour wait for our midnight flight.
image
Hotel schedule Again all good, dinner and showers in the lounge - just a bit boring. The flight to Zurich is on time and we are looking for some serious shuteye. we both go straight to sleep, although Julie seems to only get about five hours sleep and watches a few movies. I am luckier and sleep for a good 7 hours. We catch our first sight of the snow covered Swiss alps as the sun comes up and our arrival into Zurich is an easy affair with quick clearance through customs and immigration and off to find the train to the city. Swiss efficiency and some good walking navigation sees us at our hotel by 7.30 am. We go for a stroll and a coffee (and a Swiss pastry for me) by the river as we wait for the room to be available and first impressions are good. Room is ready by 8.30 and showers are welcome. We force ourselves to walk and see the sights and to set up our tour for tomorrow. German sausage on a roll with mustard seems the only choice for lunch. The weather is beautiful and warm and we are surprised by how pretty Zurich
image
Crossing the river in Zurich is, but very expensive. $11 coffee seemed a bit much! More walking his afternoon along the bahnhoffstrasse and we see all the camera crews at the front of the hotel where the FIFA meeting is taking place. Schnitzels everywhere for dinner and we feel the need to conform.
Day 3 Friday 29 May Today we have booked a combined train, cog railway and ferry trip from Zurich to Rigi, Vitznau and Lucerne. Again it is a delightful day (low 20's) as we head around the lake on a 40 minute scenic train trip to Goldau where we transferred to the cog railway up to Mt Rigi which is 1,800 metres above sea level. It's a fantastic journey of about an hour up the mountain and there are ski trails and small farms dotted along the way. There are numerous stops as people get on and off as they walk the trails between stations. Needless to say we stayed on the train! The view from the top station is fantastic and there are 360 degree views to much higher snow covered peaks and down to the many lakes and towns below. We have a very European lunch of crunchy
image
View from Mt Rigi bread and cheese before heading down the other side of the mountain to Vitznau where our ferry leaves for Lucerne. The cruise from vitznau to Lucerne is absolutely beautiful as we follow the shoreline around lake Lucerne and stop at a number of obviously very wealthy villages and towns that must be holiday locations for the very well off. The trip takes about an hour and we arrive in Lucerne in mid afternoon. Lucerne is a bit of a mix of lovely old buildings and some new not so nice ones. It is also packed with Asian tour groups and our stroll is a short one as we walk the old wooden bridge and the other tourist spots. The trains back to Zurich are every 30 minutes so we catch the 3.30 train and after a not so scenic1 hour trip (we seemed to see only industrial and residential neighbourhoods). It has been a great day and we have certainly enjoyed the sights and the ease with which we were able to move around. Very efficient the Swiss! A quiet night is in store after a long but enjoyable day of sightseeing.
Day 4 Saturday 30 May Zurich image
View from Mt Rigi with train in foreground Quite a lazy day today after our exertions in the mountains yesterday. Went to the Swiss museum, which was moderately interesting but undergoing renovations so a little chaotic. Walked up to the largest church in Zurich with its stained glass windows dating back to the 17th century. Tourists everywhere but a good walk around the university area where there were markets and lots of people eating and drinking in outdoor cafes. Speaking of which, they certainly didn't get the memo here about passive smoking. Everywhere you go it seems OK to smoke in any outdoor dining area. It seems that drinking and smoking is the national pastime of the Swiss. Dined in tonight on local bread, meat and cheese. Did I previously mention how expensive it is in Zurich? Despite the expense it was a lovely stay in Zurich and we are glad to have had the opportunity. Everything works as you would expect from the Swiss.
Day 5 Sunday 31 May Zurich to Varenna Off to Italy today and we are early to the station to ensure we find the right train. We spend our last 12 Swiss francs on some food for the train
image
Lake views as I have not found anywhere to obtain euros in Switzerland. Even though there is a dining car we were worried about paying for it. The station was a bit of a haven for wierdos and not a place you want to spend any time. Found our seats on the 11.32 train to Monza and settled in for the four hour trip. Fantastic lake and mountain scenery for the first half of the trip, but as we climbed in altitude it started raining and cloud cover limited our views. Went through the south of Switzerland and entered Italy near Lugano. I was surprised there was no immigration as we crossed the border. As Switzerland is not part of the EU I was expecting some form of recognition that we had entered the European zone, but nothing happened, so as far as anyone knows we are still in Switzerland. to get to Varenna on lake Como we had to change trains in Monza, where there used to be an F1 Grand Prix. What a dump! The station was full of touts and gangs of teenagers looking for trouble or foreigh tourists to annoy. I needed to endorse our train tickets at
image
Looking down on Goldau the station booking office in order to get on the local train. However being a Sunday in Italy the booking office was closed. So we jumped on train and I was hoping we would, arrive in Varenna before the conductor came through. Well we almost made it. The conductor arrives as we are pulling iinto Varenna. I show him the piece of paper from Rail Europe that says I have a booking but he is not convinced. He wants to take a photo of the documents and my passport. Meanwhile the train stops in Varenna and Julie is heading for the door with her suitcase as this guy bumbles around with his phone camera. I tell him I am getting off and grab my passport and race off the train with my bags. Interpol has been alerted! We were going to walk to the hotel as it looked only a short distance in the map, but it is in reality and twisting and steep path of cobblestones. "
TAXI!" Miraculously there is a single vacant taxi at the station so we jump in, relieved to be off the train and away from Monza. Our taxi driver takes me to an ATM
image
View from Mt Rigi and I get the euros I need. For a E10 fare I tip her E5 and she is picking us up on Wednesday the return tril to the station. As we arrive at the apartment miraculously there is a person wanting to meet us. She didn't know our itinerary so I am still not sure how she knew we had arrived. Nevertheless she is very welcoming and shows us to our first floor one bed apartment and it is terrific. Quite large with a glimpse of the lake through a break in the houses. A long day contained a four hour train ride, a one hour wait at the despicable Monza then a one hour train to Varenna. The travelling started at 10am and it is now 6pm. Unpacking is done and we stroll through the piazza and descend the steep cobblestoned path to the lake edge. It is breathtakingly beautiful and a cold beer and glass of wine goes down a treat at the lakeside trattoria. As we are looking at the menu we meet an American couple who are staying in the other apartment at varennahouse and we join them for dinner. They are good company and pizza
image
Hotel Plaza on Lake Lucerne and pasta are shared around. Time for some sleep.
D
ay 6 Monday 1 June Varenna Well rested we buy some breakfast supplies at the local shop (which in reality is a hole in the wall opposite our apartment). we decide to explore lake Como by ferry and we buy a day pass for E15 each and take off on the next ferry on the all stops to Como. It is a really lovely area. The lake is surrounded by massive mountains whigh rise steeply out of the lake. Mostly granite faces as they are too steep for anything to grow on. Small villages are all around, some on the lake level, but many well up the hills. Can't see any roads so not sure how they get there. Varenna is on the eastern shore of the lake and most of the other towns are on the western side or on the peninsula that runs up the middle of the main lake. The ferry stops at a number of these small villages including Mennagio, Cadenabbia, Tremezzo and Lenno. The most beautiful hotel we have seen from the lake is the Grand Hotel Tremezzo. Ornate and imposing there are lawns
image
Lake Lucerne and gardens and a swimming pool and deckchairs on the lake front. I discover later it is E1,000 per night. We decide to stop at Lenno as it has some significance for us as it was here almost four years ago that Adam proposed to Amy. It is a wonderful place, bigger than Varenna, and there is a market today along the promenade which means it is busy and vibrant. We have lunch in a hotel restaurant overlooking the lake and the waiter falls in love with Julie, or so he maintains. Photos are taken with the sweet talking waiter. We walk around to the Hotal San Giorgio which is where Adam and Amy stayed and it is just what we imagined and very romantic. Back on the ferry and next stop Bellagio. It is opulent and jam packed with tourists, so we just have a stroll along the promenade and ogle the expensive shops and hotels. Back in the ferry home to Varenna. After seeing the other holiday spots we are glad we chose Varenna (although we could easily have stayed in Lenno) as it has the right village feel about it and has enough facilities without being overloaded
image
Wooden bridge in Lucerne with tourists. Another home made meal of bread, cheese and italian meats from the local deli for dinner.
Day 7 Tuesday 2 June Varenna Another beautiful day on the lake and we have breakfast at home and a quiet stroll around the markets that are setting up in the village piazza. Local cheese, fruit, meats and assorted craftwork. All very nice and not expensive but nothing for us to buy. we had been told that the walk up to the old castle was worth the trip for the history of the casthe as well as the views. So of we set off on the steep climb up to Castello De Vezio, which was built in the 15the century. It starts as a road and disintegrates into a track that even the goats won't use. It is actually quite dangerous and if it were in Australia it would have hand rails and a fence or be closed. But not in Italy. It really is hard work as it is a steep and winding track up a decent hillside and if you lose your fitting you could easily fall a few metres. However we persevere and after around 45
image
Looking glum at Monza train station. minutes we reach the castle grounds. It's a few euros to get in and the first thing to see is the largest owl I have seen who sits in a cage and greets new arrivals (when he is awake). I can't recall why now but this castle was the site of a serious falconning sport. There are falcons in the gardens sitting on posts and restraints on their feet. I have never seen a falcon close up and their talons are incredibly long and obviously sharp and strong. There are six in all and apparently from time to time they put in shows, but not today. Further on (and up) the castle appears and is a daunting sight with fortifications and a tower with a drawbridge. Some moderately interesting old artifacts, but the prime reason to come up here is the view. It is fantastic looking 360 degrees over the lake and then behind us up to the mountains. Lenno, Bellagio, Tremezzo and Menaggio are all visible on this beautiful clear day. We can also see the snow covered peaks far way to the north. We also see for the first time the hillside villages inland from the lake. Peeled
image
Cool drinks in the Piazza at Varenna off is the main village and is much larger than the lakeside villages that only see tourists. Lemon trees, grape vines and assorted agriculture all in full swing. During the first war there were gun placements to deter the warmongers from the north. Fortunately there is a better latch down the northern side of the hill and we enjoy an easier walk through the farmland and return to Varenna. it was tiring getting up there but worth the trip. We had a reasonable meal in the Varenna piazza and a last stroll along the lakeside before our last night here.
Day 8 Wednesday 3 June Varenna to Monterosso al Mare (cinque terra) The hill climbing of the previous day has taken it out of us so we take a taxi up the the Varenna train station for our train to Monterosso. Our trip today is via Milan which is about one hour from Varenna and the train travels along the fringe of the laws for most of the way. We don't have much time for the connection to Monterosso but we find the right platform very quickly. We find our carriage and seats without any hassle although getting
image
The steps leading from our apartment to the lake our bags into the overhead storage is not so easy. The train is made up of six seat compartments and we are fortunate to meet a terrific Aussie couple about our age who are also heading for Monterosso. We strike up a conversation with Jim and Louise and find we have much in common. By the end of the journey we have agreed to share a cab to our respective accommodation and to meet for dinner later that night. Our accommodation is in a one bedroom apartment in the residential area of the old town. It is also 143 steps up a very steep series of lanes. Fortunately we have the wonderfully talented Fabio to assist. The apartment is perfectly fine and has an amazing view of the town and the Mediterranean. Fabio is the manager of the apartment and also the owner of the local bakery. He is also incredibly handsome and debonair (or so Julie says). After unpacking and a quick wander around the old town we have a drink at a cafe overlooking the old town and beach. Fair to say it is exactly like the postcards. The weather is perfect with hardly a breath of wind
image
Village on the lake and the sea is azure. A beer for me and an Aperol spritz for Julie and we are in Italian heaven. We meet our new friends Jim and Louise for dinner and seafood is definitely all the rage here. Mussels and anchovies ten different ways seems a bit over the top. Tourist quality food but very reasonable. Italy has also rediscovered the cover charge. For anywhere from 1 to 3 euros pp - for which you may or may not get a plate of bread. But don't ask for tap water as they don't have any, only in a bottle. I am working on the basis that whatever the food costs the total will be double after the cover charge, water and a drink. But I'm not complaining too much as the food and drink here are very reasonable. We enjoy our meal with Jim and Louise and agree to meet again tomorrow evening. Back up the stairs to bed.
Day 9 Thursday 4 June Monterosso We have decided to have a quiet day today. We check out the new town and buy some t shirts. Later in the afternoon we head down to the beach for a
image
Grand Hotel Tremezza swim. Most of the beach is privately owned and you have to pay to enter and you can hire a sun lounge. There is a smaller area at one end of the beach for locals and cheapskates so that's where we head. It's only about thirty metres wide and is packed with locals and is fine for us. The water is fantastic, about 21 degrees I would say. Very refreshing and clear and clean. The only drawback is the stones and pebbles getting in and out of the water. We actually stayed there for about an hour and a half and laid in the sun. It was nice to feel some warmth on our backs. Then back up the steps before meeting Jim and Louise for dinner. Tonight's meal was very ordinary and expensive, mainly because our order seemed to be lost in translation. In any event we enjoyed the company and a local rose wine. Back up thone stairs again!
Day 10 Friday 5 June Monterosso Over dinner last night we had decided to go on a day trip to Portofino with Jim and Louise. This involved a train to Santa Margherita and then a ferry to
image
Hotel San Giorgio Lenno Portofino. the train trip was about 50 minutes and took us around the coastline to Santa Margherita. It reminded me of the trip from Sydney by train to the Central coast with the track winding around the coastal villages. Santa Margherita is a beautiful holiday town and was full of people enjoying the hot weather and the sights. Luxury hotels and villas on cliff tops etc. The ferry trip out to Portofino is very scenic and looking back to the coast you can see the mountains rof the national park rising in the background. Portofino seems a haven for super yachts. there wer a few that we just over the top. See some of the photos enclosed. Of itself portofico was OK, just more shops and restaurants with a nice but small,harbour. We had developed an aversion to climbing stairs by this stage so we may have missed some of the attractions on top of the hill. We did some shopping and then had a lovely lunch in a quiet corner of town with lots of laughs. Back on the ferry, a walk around Santa Margherita and off home on the train. We were intending to have a swim when
image
Hotel San Giorgio from the lake we got back but the prospect of going back up the stairs afterwards turned us off that idea. Dinner again with Jim and Louise and we said our goodbyes as they were off to a villa in Tuscany next day. We were lucky to meet them as they were a lot of fun and really made our stay in Monterosso very memorable. Back up those bloody stairs!
Day 11 Saturday 6 June Monterosso Today we took the ferry south from Monterosso past the other four villages. Monterosso is by far the largest and after our trip today we believed easily the best. The most striking is Vernazza which is really built in a couple of large rocks. There is a small harbour and a fort in top of the big rock at the harbour entrance. Pretty stunning to look at but not sure I want to stay there. We had originally booked to stay at Riomaggiore but decided that it looked too small and changed our booking to Monterosso - very good call! We got off the ferry here to wander around and it was packed with tourists in the very narrow streets and lanes. Not our
scene but probably essentially cinque Terre. Back in the ferry to Portovenere, which was just stunning. It is at the entrance to the shipping port of Le Spezia. It was another magic day on the water and people were out in force in boats, kayaks, swimming and sailing. It was a great sight to see all these loacas our enjoying themselves. Our trip included a tour of the three islands that are just off Portovenere which held old forts and other ancient ruins of protection from invasion. All very interesting - see photos. We had a wander around Portovenere and did some shopping for Louise. Then back on the ferry for the trip back to Monterosso. The ferry was full of locals and their kids and their bloody grandparents etc. it was a full on Italian family experience. People all talking and shouting at each other from 20 metres away. Let me off my head hurts. Back up the stairs for some rest before heading off for dinner which was a pretty quiet affair at a pizza ristorante. Back up the stairs one last time.
Day 12 Sunday 7 June Monterosso to Florence When you are travelling by
image
Bellagio promenade train two words you don't want to overhear when buying breakfast are TRAIN STRIKE. That's enough to send more seasoned travellers than us into a bit of a panic. So it is a travel day for us and we need to make a very tight (less than 10 minutes) connection in Pisa to get the train to Florence. But apparently a section of the train drivers union is on strike today from 9 until 5pm. I walk to the station to check our train and of course there is a big queue of others also wanting the same information. In typical Italian fashion the station master shrugs his shoulders at me and says "maybe". mmmmm! Maybe that's as definitive as I am going to get, but at least it wasn't a no. So we head to the station more in hope than anything as we do not fancy another night in Monterosso, beautiful as it is we could not face those stairs again. Along with many others we wait on the station platform- not one other train arrives, they are all cancelled. Then a train arrives and it is indeed the 10.19 to Pisa and beyond. Somehow we seem to
image
Water taxi in Bellagio. Jeff wants one of these! be on the only train in town. We make our connection in Pisa with no time to spare and settle into a very crowded train for the 1.5 hour trip into Firenze Santa Maria novella. Without a decent internet connection in Monterosso we haven't been able to download the route from the station to our apartment but I figure I can work it out. After 45 minutes walking I give up and we backtrack to the station and catch a cab. Sorry about that Jules. Our apartment is a cracker, about 100 metres from the main piazza and the duomo and up only one flight of stairs on a street that is only open for a few hours a day. It is spacious and quiet with a kitchen etc. We are here for 5 nights so it's just what we have been looking for. I have also had a bug and this comfort and quiet is very welcome. After we check in we go for a walk and see the amazing duomo or Church of Santa Maria the flower. It is incredibly imposing and dominates the whole city. Florence is the birthplace of the Renaissance and eveything you see and
image
Villa in Bellagio do is related to this period and the time of Medici family who pretty much ruled this part of Tuscany for so long in the 14/15th centuries. A quick bowl of spaghetti for dinner and an early night after the stress of the train trip.
Day 13 Monday 8 June Florence Lazy morning followed by an orientation walk which produced a realisation that the crowds and queues were going to be horrific at the major tourist attractions. Florence is full of tourists, in particular tour groups of U.S.and European college students. It is a human zoo and is hot and uncomfortable walking around the majors tourist areas. We walked across the Ponte Vecchio and around the old walls of the town. It is a beautiful city that retained all the consistency of architecture and colour in its buildings. Nothing over three stories and all well maintained (at least in the areas we walked). But touts and beggars everywhere and most uncomfortable for us. If you need a selfie stick or a worthless charm bracelet then go to Florence immediately. Old gypsy women are at the entrance and exit of all the churches and many just sit in the
image
Varenna from the lake street and beg. We made some enquiries about tickets to the various museums, but the two most popular tours (Duomoand Statie of David) were booked out. We also decided to do a day trip to Siena and San Gimignano on Wednesday, which we were able to book online. I wasn't feeling great so bread and cheese for dinner and an early night.
Day 14 Tuesday 9 June Florence My bug must have needed some rest because I couldn't get out of bed until after 10am so a quiet day was on the cards. We did manage to do some shopping at the leather markets and Julie bought a lovely leather jacket. We both could have bought so much more but resisted the urge. We came across a lovely old church that wasn't massive but impressive nonetheless. Adjacent to the altar was the organ and the organist gave us a smile as we acknowledged him. He then started playing the most beautiful pieces of music, not hymns but lovely period music that resonated through the church. It was simply delightful. He played three pieces of around 10 minutes each. We had a front row seat to a superb mini concert.
image
Market day in Varenna piazza It was a highlight of the trip so far. After he finished Julie went and thanked him and he seemed pleased that we had stopped to listen. On a more mundane note we also did some laundry and caught up on some rest and social media. Very ordinary pasta meal for dinner.
Day 15 Wednesday 10 June Florence Today we are off on our day trip to Siena and San Gimignano, so it's a quick walk to the station where the bus will collect us (needless to say I now know the way). The bus is full and it is a mixed group of Spanish, French and Americans (and us). Our guide is Italian, but speaks Spanish, French and English and she is very good, although every piece of information is repeated in three languages, which becomes a bit tiresome after the first hour! The trip down the autostrada is great as it gives us a good view of the Tuscan countryside and the villages along the way. The autostrada itself is terrible and reminds me of the old pacific highway. Grape vines everywhere and it really is pretty countryside, but not unlike a greener Hunter Valley. Arriving
In the track up to Castello Vezio in Siena is frantic. Today is market day and traffic and bus tours are everywhere. We finally get to the drop off point and head up to the old town. Siena is much bigger than I imagined and there is a new town that operates as a centre of business for the local area and then there is the old town for the tourists. The old town is a very imposing sight and experience. We walk in through the old walls and scale the cobblestone path to the old town. We see the old building of the first bank in the world (?) Bank de Monte Paschi although they apparently are not doing so well now. Possibly a metaphor for Italy as a whole! Anyway as a sign of confidence in the oldest bank I withdraw some money from their ATM. We take a tour of the museum of one of the 17 districts of Siena. The most famous event in Siena is the Palio de Campo. This is a horse race between the districts and is held in the Piazza De Campo. Much of the exhibition focuses on the bi annual race for the Palio (pennant) and we see
image
The owl old riding helmets and indeed the pennants that were won by this district, including the one from 1611. This race has been held on 2 July and 16 August for over 500 years and is a phenomenal cultural and sporting event. To then go to the Piazza De Campo and see the track is to suspend belief that they ride a horse race here. The track is an undulating, uneven, amphitheatre approximately 300 metres in circumference with four turns but no description can tell you how dangerous it is. The corners run away from the direction of the turn (like a reverse camber) and many horses crash on these turns. Only ten horses (of the 17 districts) get to run each year and they do three laps (1,000 metres). It must be pandemonium because there are 35,000 people on the inside of the Piazza De Campo and thousands more on the outside and in the surrounding shops and houses. Of course the race itself is preceded by weeks of parades and pageantry and this was evident because it is only a few weeks away. I would love to go to this race one day. We had lunch at a ristorante
image
Lake Como from the Castello overlooking the Piazza and then had a wander through the shops and churches in the town. Then back to the bus for the trip to San Gimignano. It was another interesting drive through the back roads from Siena to San Gimignano. This town can be seen from miles away as it is the home of the massive towers that were built centuries ago as expressions of ego by the wealthy - sort of a big boys toys of the 12th century. Having seen the towers from a distance the town itself was pretty dull. Just the usual souvineers and tourist junk in the shop. However it does have the worlds best ice cream - well that's what they say in the sign outside. It was pretty good. This has been a long, but very enjoyable day and we are happy to head back to Florence. As we do a storm looms in the distance and by the time we get back to Florence we have been through thunder, rain and lightning. More bread and cheese for dinner as we enjoyed a good lunch in Siena.
Day 16 Thursday 11 June Florence Slowly getting my energy back so a big
image
The Falcons walking day today. Off on the bus to the Piazzetta De Michaelangelo on top of the hill on the southern side if the river. It's an interesting bus ride through the suburbs, out though the old walls of the city and then to the park overlooking the city. From here you get a great view of the cathedral, the various churches, the uffuzzi, ponte Vecchio and all the sights of this beautiful city. The park is packed with tourists and the usual touts (is there anyone who doesn't yet have a selfie stick that wants one?). We also see the campsite where Julie and Sue Cox stayed in 1975, she said it didn't look like it had improved much! Across the road but still taking in the view is a lovely cafe in the gardens. It is serving ridiculousy expensive coffee (7euros), but it is a lovely respite from the crowds and touts. We sit for a while, then we decide to walk back down rather than get the bus. It's an easy walk and we soon reach the river bank, which we follow until we can cross to the city side of town. From there we go looking for
image
View from the Castello the Church of Santa Croce which our friend Steve Alburty tells us contains the remains of his distant medieval relatives. Indeed we find the church and also the inscription of brother Alberti, who apparently was the
dude in his day. Details of his life are inscripted on two columns in either side of the main altar. It actually a fantastic church and contains the tombs of Galileo, Donatello and other notables of the time. We went to the gardens and the cloisters and observed life from this time for these priests. Then headed for home and a relax before dinner. I had always wanted to try a steak florentine, which is a t bone steak for two. It's one kilo and looks over the top, and it is. We eat it but it's a bit disappointing in terms of quality, but it is well done and worth the experience.
Day 17 Friday 12 June Florence to Positano Today we leave our lovely apartment and the beautiful city of Florence for a long train trip to Naples and ultimately Positano. The long trip is made easier by the fact that this is a very fast train and travels most of
image
Looking down on Varenna from the Castello the way at more than 250kph but does reach 300kph at one stage. It's brilliant and we are in Naples in 2.5 hours. We have arranged a driver to take us from Naples to Positano because of the private train service in the area and the security issues in Naples. The driver is a Positano local so is full of information about the Amalfi Coast. Naples is a nightmare of poverty, bad roads and hordes of people and traffic. We can't get out of there fast enough. Our drive takes us past mt Vesuvius and the new town of pompei. We drive along the cliff tops around Sorrento and finally into the twisting narrow roads of Positano. The view on the drive was fantastic but the road is narrow and stomach churning and we are pleased to arrive in Positano. Our hotel is about halfway down the valley on the western side of the barrio and above the private Fornillo beach. The hotel has access to this beach and the facilities of the Hotel Pupetto on the beach. Our room has a decent terrace and ocean and village views that are spectacular. In our room on arrival is bottle of
image
Looking across the lake from the castello chianti and a snack and note from Sonny to say he misses us and hopes we enjoy Positano. (This would bring a tear to a glass eye!). We take a walk down to the beach and enjoy a mid afternoon drink and snack at the Pupollo beach bar. It's busy but not restrictive. We decide to take an excursion to Capri tomorrow so we make a booking for an all day trip leaving at 9am. We wander around to the main beach and village and check out the shops and other tourist traps before buying some bread and cheese to go with our wine for dinner.
Day 17 Saturday 13 June Positano We are off on our cruise today and the weather looks great. It is a small tour of only 12 people. It's a good 1.5 hour ride along the mainland coast before heading out to the Isle of Capri. This takes us through the pinnacle rocks that include one with a hole in it that is large enough to to sail through. That was cool. We then take a close look at three grottos along the island and the skipper noses the boat into the grottos
image
Different view from the castello so that we are actually inside what feels like a cave. This is also pretty cool. It's very busy out on the water today including a number of super yachts lounging around. We arrive at the famous Grotto Azzurra but it is pandemonium. There must be 50 boats aligned up bobbing around full of people waiting their turn to be rowed under the rocks into the grotto. It's a money making machine. 13 euro pp to be rowed in and around the caves for a few minutes. You are then expected to tip the row boat guy as well. Our skipper tells us that it will be at least an hours wait. Everyone on board except the Japanese couple say to forget it. He is insistent that he wants to go in the grotto so we bob around in the queue for half an hour before it is clear even to the Japanese guy that this is going to take a long time. He finally agrees not to stay around so off we go to Capri. Capri harbour is loaded with super yachts and assorted big dollar boats. As we are walking into town from the marina we pass Lachlan
image
Another view from the castello Murdoch and one of his kids walking back to their superyacht. Talk about rubbing shoulders! We are determined to have a swim so we head for the small public beach and with quite an effort get into the water. The pebble beach has turned to large rocks and staying on your feet is not easy. We have our swim but the water is not particularly clean being near a fairly major leisure boat marina. We then take the funicular train up to the top town of Capri and take in the sights. Just lots of tourist trap shops and ristorantes. Not much else to do so we head back down and have some lunch and hang around waiting for the return boat trip. The weather has darkened a little and as we head back the sea becomes very rough and with the exception of Julie and me and one other couple everyone else on board is sea sick. We are happy to make it back to Positano and after a quick change we are off to Il Fornillo for our best meal of the trip so far.
Day 18 Sunday 14 June Positano Slept in today and had
image
Julie walking on the drawbridge at the fort a lazy breakfast on the lovely terrace of the hotel overlooking the harbour of Positano. As was the case yesterday on our return boat trip the sea is rough and all boat excursions are cancelled due to the surge at the wharf. So good job we did ours yesterday. Walked down the steep and winding road to the old town for some shopping. Shoes for Amy, sandals for Julie, t shirt for me. Watched as a baker took some fresh rolls out of the oven and bought two for lunch. Still hot when we ate them. Caught up on this blog and lazed about the hotel for the afternoon. Around 7 we walked down to the Fornillo beach ristorante at Hotel Pupette and had a lovely drink and nibble overlooking the now surging sea. Had a very nice meal at this ristorante followed by cheesecake and coffee. 2nd best meal of the trip. Slow walk back up to the local bus stop for the ride home.
Day 19 Monday 15 June Positano to Roma The day started well enough with an early breakfast before our scheduled 9.30 pick up for the drive to Napoli to catch the midday
image
Main Street in varenna train to Rome. We were there at 9.15 just in case. When the driver had not turned up by 9.45 I called their office and was told he would just be a few minutes. At 10 a man approached me to tell me that Salvatore would be here soon. I told him to tell salvatore that if he wasn't here in 10 minutes I was catching a cab. At 10.10 a Skoda appears with an old man at the wheel and indicates for us to get in. Salvatore won't be coming! Halfway down the hill a woman jumps in the car and says salvatore has broken down and they will take us to Napoli. She says the price will be reduced from 100 euros to 90. I tell her I was thinking more like 70 and so we sit in silence for the next hour as we crawl around the Amalfi Coast mountains. It is traffic chaos and I am sure we will miss our train (or drive off the cliff). Cutting a long story short we make our train with only a few minutes to spare and I give them 60 euros. Easy one hour fast train to Rome
image
Jeff swimming in the lake relieves the stress somewhat. We pick up a taxi to our hotel and are relieved to have arrived in one piece and on time. The hotel is terrific in the centre of the city and right next to the Italian parliament building so it is very safe (carabinieri everywhere and no cars allowed in the square). A quick orientation walk and coffee and focaccia and we can relax. Tomorrow we are off on a guided tour of the Vatican museums, Sistine Chapel and St Peters so here ends this edition of the blog at 3.30 on Monday.
Advertisement
Tot: 0.224s; Tpl: 0.021s; cc: 7; qc: 47; dbt: 0.0526s; 1; m:domysql w:travelblog (10.17.0.13); sld: 1;
; mem: 1.4mb
Katie
non-member comment
Loved reading this Jeff! Fab pix too. Wish I was there...........one day :) love to you both xx