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Published: June 14th 2017
Geo: 43.3187, 11.3305
So today, with all good in the world and all our clothes washed and dried, we headed off to Siena. Siena is one of those towns that you think "I could live here" – a real working town, but full of amazing buildings, beautiful art and incredible views. OK, so now that the water is running again, I think that living in Tuscany would be great – how quickly she forgets, I hear you say!
It was a long walk from the parking station into the centre of Siena, and a long time until we felt we knew where we were…We finally arrived at the Duomo –built in the 11th century, and so over the top and sumptuous, but missing a big piazza in front of it, so that you can stand back and properly admire it! We have conflicting thoughts (i.e. Neither of us can decide if it is right or necessary) for the church to charge entry fees to the churches, but “no ticket, no entry” meant we lined up to buy tickets to enter the Duomo like everyone else.
The Duomo of Siena is very large, but was planned to be at least twice as big –
construction of the extension had started, and can still be seen, but then the plague in the 13th century wiped out half the population, and meant that a bigger duomo wasn't needed, and couldn't be funded! They had plenty of money to make the existing one packed with exquisite art, though – the marble inlaid floor took 200 years to complete, by all the best artists, and was just fantastic. And the roof, which was painted to look like a sumptuous night sky was wonderful, too.
We then headed towards to the Piazza del Campo, the centre of everything in Siena! On the way, we stuck our heads in at a fabulous palazzo, with a statue of Emperor Julius Caesar – we're thinking of you, Julius, and photograph every “Julius” that we see! When we got to the Piazza, we decided to enjoy the atmosphere, and got a front row seat at a pizza restaurant on the piazza. The boys loved it – they were able to run and chase pigeons and “discover” the fountain in the huge piazza, whilst we could watch them from our table! (The fountain is fed from a 500 year old aqueduct, so I don't think
the boys discovered it, but don't tell them!) The Campo (meaning field) was designed in the 12th century, and is shaped like a fan (it is slightly sloped) with nine folds, to represent the Council of Nine who governed Siena at that time, and (they say) to look like the cloak of the Madonna. Pizzas were fantastic, and the kids loved seeing photos and reading about the Palio which takes place in august in the Piazza. For the Palio, each neighbourhood enters one horse, and it is ridden bareback around the Piazza in a breakneck race – the whole race takes 90 seconds, and thousands come to watch. It sounds crazy, but they've been doing it since the 12th century, and I guess personal injuries weren't such a big area of law at that time! Tom wants to either come and watch it or ride in it – his current plan is that he and Aymar de R will come when they are teenagers together!
It was hard to get inspired to get up from our comfortable seats with an outstanding view, but the kids had read a book about the frescoes in the Palazzo Publicco showing the difference between good
government and bad government, so we were back on the tourist trail. The Palazzo, and its high bell tower, are the dominant features on the Piazza del Campo – the tower is called Torre del Mangia (apparently the bell ringer was idle and ate a lot, and it is a reference to the Italian phrase “mangia guadagni” i.e. to eat the profits!) We really enjoyed the visit to the palazzo and its art gallery – I really liked the room which has (semi-recent) frescoes showing scenes from the unification of Italy in the 1860s – I like to think that not all the great art is 500 years old! As we went in, I bought the kids another book on Sienese art, this time a story book telling the story of the fresco of Good Government from the point of view of a little sienese pig who is in the picture – it certainly made the work more interesting and relevant for the kids! They were very impressed.
It was pouring rain when we got out of the Palazzo, but we took shelter in the narrow streets, and made our way to the church of San Domenic. The church has, on
display, the finger of St Catherine of Siena (she was the saint who beckoned the pope back from Avignon to Rome, and this is the finger that she used, apparently) and her head! Yes, that's right – they are still displaying the decapitated head of this holy woman who died 800 years ago. It is as gross as it sounds – though, for 800 years, in good shape. Matthew got very upset when some American tourists laughed when he asked me (in his high, carrying voice) “Mummy, what happens if the head rots and the stink is so bad that it stinks out the WHOLE church?” A valid question, but I also had to hold back the giggles. Georgia is disgusted – she wants to know why they cannot just display some nice clothes that the saint wore, or something similarly tasteful.
From there, we walked back to the carpark, just enjoying the small back streets of Siena, with its little shops (I bought some panforte, but the rest of the family don't like it in Siena OR in Australia – more for me!) We went past a great photo gallery of photos from the Palio, really showing the excitement and
the movement of the event, but convincing the kids that it is not a place for little kids!
On our way home, we stopped at a large supermarket – these are quite a rarity in Italy, and it was nice to have 3 or 4 choices of everything – just like being back at Coles Toowong! And I don't know whether it is because people grow a lot of their own veges, or buy them at markets, but it was hard to restrain me in a shop where all the fresh food didn't look old and past its best!
Then, home to Castelmuzio! The evening glow (it was about 8pm!) made the most fantastic light, and my wonderful patient family let me stop the car to photograph it!
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Marguerite Vetterli
non-member comment
Yes Siena is beautiful, many years ago I was visiting. At the TV we see the Palio every year.I can imaging, that the Kids vould run with the horses.Have last nices days.Baci Marguerite