To Siena

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Same breakfast again, really liking this Tuscan cheese. Get to the car around 10, can't believe the fog, can only see a few feet in front. Take it slowly and decide to go direct to Siena or maybe a quick detour to Vagliagi, home of Dario Castagno, who's book "Too Much Tuscan Sun", we used as some of the inspiration for this trip. We find the turnoff and a grader and rows of gravel on the road, which is also gravel, so we decide to bypass this and as I'd already done enough damage to the Audi, Vagliagi will have to wait until next time, back on the road to Siena. Entry to Siena is quite strange, not a lot of signage, or maybe we don't see it in the fog, and no idea where we really are in relation to the hotel. Pull up and read the directions and realise we are quite close. Paid parking is quite expensive and the free ones are full, so we drive down the narrow alley to the front of the hotel and get over close so the other cars can get past, even though well before check-in time. English speaking receptionist allows us to check in if we are quick. We are shown the room, this boutique hotel is beautiful, onnly 6 rooms over 4 floors. We exit hastily and follow the instructions to move our car out of the old city to another free carpark closer to the hotel. Jules navigates well but says to take a left which I do and next thing there is a policeman waving at the window - I keep driving as I don't actually notice him, thankfully Jules does. Apparently only buses can do that - as would be indicated by the bus that I was now holding up whilst trying to explain that I just need to do over there! We do a 3 point turn, do another lap of the stadium and find the street to park in - the carpark is packed including quite a few illegally, Italians just park anywhere they feel like! One regular spot left, phew, I hold up a few cars trying to reverse into it as is is designed for small cars and I have this big fucking Audi, next time I'm hiring a Fiat! At least I can leave it here for a couple of days. Off to the toourist spots, a few old buildings, churches (what else) , shops (having trouble keeping Julie away from the Italian leather boots and handbags) and make our way to Il Campo, the main square. Quick Machiato andf off again. Amazing square (it's not actually square though), the best in Italy apparently, I can see why. We check out the town hall museum & its famous frescos and then settle into a little cafe on the square, seats facing the front of course, and soak up the atmosphere and more importantly, the sun! Off again to wander the streets, checking out some sites from the guide books & then an espresso at the renowed Nanninis. A spot of window shopping, lots of sales - more italian leaather handbags and boots and then back to the hotel for a prosecco in the lounge with a view of the Duomo. For dinner I haved researched a number of the recommended best restaurants and we plot a course, not expecting them all to be open. La Taverna di San Guiseppe is the first one and its open, so we go in. Staff are very attentive, complimentary appetiser, potato soup, plus complimentary glass of prosecco (like we need more). They leave us to a time to scrutinise the menu, extensive to say the least & the wine list has over 300 ranging from about 15 to 4200 euros. They have some truffle specialities, a bit more expensive, but what the hell! I go for the ricotta gnocci in a pecorini fondue, loads of shaved truffle over the top and Jules the ricotta and spinach dumpling, same deal with the truffles and then some dude comes over and grates some more intensely flavoured stuffle over the top! I order a Brunello from Montalacino, Italy's second most famous wine, but the dude says this one is better, at 48 euros it better be, so we go with that. He goes to the dresser and gets two of the biggest glasses I have ever seen, very wide and flat, pours a little in one swirls it around expertly, then into another and repeats with the other, then pouring in only a few ounces each. Jules comments that its a bit like a Japanese tea ceremony - he cracks up and says 10 minutes is better! Wine does not disappoint. For mains I have pork with prunes in a chianti reduction, Jules more wild boar, this time in a dish that looked a bit like a strogonof, both awesome plus a side of a fennel au gratin style dish. While finishing the wine, we get some complimentary cheeses, some with strawberry chilli sauce drizzled over, very tasty. We resist dessert and are out for around 130 euros. Next morning Dennis at the hotel says "good choice". Back at the hotel to the lounge again to do emalis etc with our bottle of cognac, chat online to Amelia in Tassie for a while and then retire for some more late night Italian TV, their "1800 call now" ads are so much better than the lame ones we get in Australia.

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