Adventures in Italy: Day 4 Val d' Orcia, Radicofani, Sarteano, Chianciano

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Italy Day 4, Friday, October 7, Radicofani and Chianciano

We began the day by asking Ben to make a Doctor appointment for Dave who may have pink eye. The entire group declined the offer of an early morning half hour walking tour of Chianciano since it was cold and raining.

At 9am we boarded the bus to Val d' Orcia, a World Heritage site. This valley of low lying hills under an extinct volcano is a perfect unison of man and nature. On our way we passed the large 15th century estate called La Foce, once owned by an American woman who during WWII hid Jews and food from the Nazis. A WWII diary book about her life entitled War in Val d’Orcia by Iris Ortega is set on this estate. Castelluccio, a medieval castle sits back on this 7,000 acre property out of our view. It pained me that we did not stop to see the beautiful gardens considered among the finest in Italy, nor did we stop to get a photo.

Sadly it was rainy and foggy and as we looked through rain splotched windows to this iconic valley, the villas, olive trees and vineyards were blanketed in fog. Most of the farmhouses here were built between 1100-1700. Originally poor estates, now these homes run in the millions. As we passed the Orcia River we were told there are many rivers and lakes in this region so water, and water quality in Tuscany is not an issue yet burlo is Italian for dry soil over the summer months, so although water is plentiful, there is a dry season.

We entered the Province of Sienna, the largest province in Italy where some of the medieval towers are now chic restaurants or homes. As soon as they were built every farmhouse would have a chapel attached to it. We were told there is now some conflict with locals in this region because wealthy and famous people are buying these farmhouses and putting in swimming pools, changing the historical aspects of the area, but the influx of wealth is helping the economy so it is an unresolved conundrum. I observed many cypress trees here, popular for home landscapes, mostly along stately drives or in cemeteries where most people in Italy are cremated and placed in above ground tombs due to lack of space.

All towns are divided into contrada or historic regions where they have regional celebrations including medieval jousting competitions. Every Tuscan town has a festival of oil in the fall. During the fall harvest festivals you can taste their local olive oils and see people dressed in local historic costumes, although we were not so fortunate to be in any of these towns during their festivals. As we climbed higher in the mountains Ben told us there are wild boar (dangerous), fox, and porcupine but few deer. These animals present garden challenges similar to ours. Little snow falls in these mountains, (between 6-10 inches a year) but it does get cold and sometimes freezes. As we climbed higher I observed more piney woods and less farmland. This area is prone to earthquakes so there are many metal supports attached to old buildings to protect them. All the buildings, built of local darker rock, are smaller and more rustic in contrast to nearby Pienza’s larger estates.

Radicofani is an ancient hill town with an impressive and impenetrable medieval fortress on the southern border of the beautiful National Park of the Val d’Orcia. Perched high on a hill we were told it provided beautiful views of Tuscany as far as the Apennine mountains but sadly it was raining and foggy. Nevertheless I did manage to get a few photos of the surrounding hills as clouds lifted a bit. Despite the rain we had an opportunity to walk back in time over cobblestones and narrow streets where one could imagine soldiers walking while defending the fortress, or pilgrims staying the night on their way to Rome. I can only imagine how cold and miserable these travelers would have been if their pilgrimage took them through towns like these on a cold and rainy day.

Radicofani is one of many towns on the Via Francigena, the road to France or Via Romea, the famous religious pilgrimage route to Rome from France beginning in 990. The pilgrim road was built and maintained by local nobles but the “road” mainly consisted of foot paths and trails. Many shops and inns sport the sign of the pilgrim that indicated a stop on the way.

Tucked into the small piazza in Radicofani we found the tiny St Agata Church that was made famous because of an incredibly beautiful Andrea della Robbia glazed terra-cotta sculpture worth millions. (Glazed terra-cotta is much cheaper than marble and was often used for commissioned sculpted reliefs such as the della Robbia panels.) This town, with only 800 people, has long refused to sell the Robbia sculpture despite the fact that the influx of so much money would help the town immensely. I think they are wise to keep these cherished pieces of art and history for it would be like selling your soul. We found three more Robbias in the bigger church of St Peter across the piazza. Robbia’s sculptures are recognized by his iconic blue color and the use of bright yellow lemons.

Legend has it that, Messer Ghino di Tacco, the ‘Gentleman Bandit’ or the “Robinhood of Italy”, lived in Radicofani in the 13th century. Not to be confused with Salvatore Giuliano of Sicily… Dante and Boccaccio mention Tacco in their works as a man who was sometimes tyrannical and cruel but always in order to do good works.

Before leaving Radicofani, we all squeezed into a tiny shop for tastes (and purchases) of olive oil, pecorino cheese and black truffle sauce, all delicious local specialties. As we left this hill town I saw many sheep grazing in the meadows near farms that were planted with wheat, orzo and barley whose seeds were just beginning to sprout. As the clouds lifted we saw great expanses of hills and valleys spreading beyond, and some areas where farmers were burning brush. Ben informed us that the spring waters in the Umbria region are reputedly the best in Europe. I might add that I think the cappuccino is the best I have had, is it because of the great tasting water? Cappuccino is named after the hooded Capuchin friars whose habits were the brown color of this delicious beverage.

Our next stop was a short visit to the 12th century Castello La Grancia di Spedletto,in Pienza, currently an agriturismo with a small olive oil and pasta making operation. This castle, built along the Francigena or pilgrim road, was built by priest Ugolino da Rocchione as a fortified farm and a place to host pilgrims on their journey. It sits in a quiet rural setting with scenic views of the beautiful Orcia Valley. You can book rooms with breakfast included in this lovely restored castle! Wish we could.

The Pecorino Di Pienza (Fattoria Pianporcino), a 500 acre family cheese farm in Pienza, is our last stop for this afternoon and it includes lunch! This farm uses only the hardy Sardinian sheep that graze on wild grasses and herbs adding a unique and delicious flavor to their cheeses. We were given a tour of the farm and its operations by the very funny cheese farm host Beppe (nickname for Josepe). Pecora is the name for ewe in Italian, hence pecorino cheese. Ricotta cheese is the re-cut, soft, pecorino cheese. Beppe described the busy sheep mating process in very ‘ comically descriptive’ terms with lambs being born only 5 months later. When ready to be milked, the females, moved in lines of 48, lured in with food and collared in place. Milk is collected and the elaborate cheese production begins. We saw wheels of many varieties of pecorino cheese, including some soft cheeses that are ready to eat in 2 months. Some of their specialty cheeses were rolled in pine needles, walnut leaves or local grasses or herbs. These are stored in specially designed temperature appropriate rooms and are ready after almost a year. The longer the aging, the longer the cheese lasts (and the harder the cheese). Pecorino aged cheese can last outside the refrigerator but it is best to refrigerate covering only the cut side leaving the uncut, aged side exposed. To cover, use cellophane on the cut side only, then twist the cellophane on the sides.

We were given lunch at the cheese farm that included a small green salad and a sampling of seven different flavorful pecorino cheeses, (all labeled for tasting and hopefully purchasing), a ricotta cheese and some capicola and prosciutto which was all good but the prosciutto was truly amazing! Of course the Spedaletto red wine from Orcia made it all go down a little too well! The average cheese sale is approximately $25 per pound inc shipping to US.

The sun finally came out as we bade farewell to Beppe and his farm. We and boarded the bus for the ride back to Chianciano in a state of well sated bliss while we enjoyed the now sunny and beautiful Tuscan landscape. We had little time to rest before attending a very thorough lecture on the art of the Renaissance from Fernanda, an art historian, who prepared us well for our trip to Florence the next day.

After our lecture we enjoyed a beautiful sunset over the Val d' Orcia before hopping on a bus to the nearby town of Sarteano, birthplace of Frencesco Piccolomini or Pope Pius III. Our dinner for the evening was in the romantic 15th century Chiostro Cennini. This ancient cloister is set within the beautifully restored and maintained Cennini Palace with its stone cellars, caves and ancient Etruscan columns from 400 years before Christ that are located in the courtyard of the cloister.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner in a secluded room upstairs in this ancient stone cloister. As a Primo course we enjoyed a delicious asparagus soufflé. For the Secundo, a generous helping of zucchini sausage, roast pork loin rib and pork steak. Thankfully fresh fruit was served as our dessert in a 100%!b(MISSING)io ware paper cup. I don’t think I could have eaten a heavy desert after that large and delicious meal.

It was wonderful to experience Sarteano in the light of the moon wandering the labyrinth of little streets.This is such an historic town with Etruscan ruins, museums, wonderful architecture and a castle perched on a hilltop with views of all it commands, that it was a shame not to stay in this town instead of Chianciano. But still, a perfect ending to a long, but wonderful day.

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