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Published: September 21st 2022
Italy
It is my first trip to Europe. I am going to Italy. I owed it to my younger self as a teenager who watched too much Hollywood films and notably the cliché Eat Pray Love. My teenage whim of becoming a chef and architect probably were also influenced by the Italian inspiration from the movies. Today’s me as a young working adult, whose work not related to any form of art and cuisine, has been stuck at home since covid, no opportunities for long travels, I have been quite accustomed to the boring lifestyle, eating the same food, watching movies that has basically the same plots, same anxiety and trauma from toxic job.
As an adult who “settled” in life, I still have ambitions, but not as wild as my teenager self. If I lost the ability to dream, I will just go fulfill the dreams of my teenager self, that will do. Maybe that will inspire the adult-me to regain the ability to dream. Besides, I needed a break, a breather to go some place different, maybe exotic, preferably marvelous and don’t mind some scary elements. (wait, it sounded like the Eat Pray Love character).
I
got it all in this trip to Italy.
Milan
It is an elegant city. The trams that crawl in between narrow roads in between buildings all around the city centre are my favourite mode of transport. For 7 euro a day, I hopped on and off and just to people-watch from the trams. Some trams are almost decade-old, some are relatively new with A/C.
The first day when I arrived in Milan, I stayed with my Airbnb host. It was located 30 mins from the city centre, a lovely neighbourhood with kids playing in playground, people jogging along the canal after work, a lovely centuries-old small church nearby. It was a good choice that I stayed away from city centre, so that I get to experience all these real people living moments. (Opposite experience that I had in Rome)
Then on the third day, I went to Como. It was a beautiful hill town but it just did not click with me, The tourist vibe was too overwhelming. It started with the overcrowded train, I had to stand next to a garbage bin for 1 hour, even though I bought the first class train
ticket. Apparently, it was one of the must-go next stop for those who had done visiting Milan. It was a day-time nightmare to see such crowds squeezing intp the overly packed train. The announcement for platform number was late, everyone seemed confused and nervous for missing the train.
I contemplated whether to abort the trip even before the train departed, I stayed nonetheless. Spent about 2 hours walking around the Lake Como. The waterbus station was too crowded so I decided to go back to Milan and called it a day. I had a beef burger and gelato near my Airbnb, strolled along the canal during the sunset. It was great way to end my 2.5 days in Milan.
Dolomites
Day 0 By train from Milan to Bolzano, I arrived in Ortisei by bus. It was a lovely town, every inch of the town was photogenic. The night before the hike began, I unpacked my backpack to reduce the load, and repacked. I did not want to overpack to slow me down, but I also did not want to get stranded in mountain thinking “I should have brought xx but why didn’t I”. I
anxiously unpacked and repacked about 3 times, until I decided it did not make any difference anyway. The backpack is still full and over 10 kg. There was no way I can significantly reduce the load without omitting any essentials anyway.
Day 1 The next morning, I took a cable car to Mont Suec and started the hike. The first crossroad I faced, one led to the lower and wider pathway, another one was going up hill. I took the latter one thinking these 2 may eventually converge. Or it would only make sense to go up to see the better view. In fact, I went to the wrong trail for the first 30 minutes, realized that the path eventually ended at a closed cable car station. I had to turn back and follow the wider trails. 1 hour was wasted going up and down the wrong trail.
It’s okay, at least I was on the right path now.
It was a pleasant walk for the first 4 hours. Basically walking on road wide enough for cars to drive on. The path leaded to the great mountain ridge where I eventually had to cross
Before the hike
I tried to pack as light as possibleover it. I had a feast at the mountain hut, spaghetti and baked potato, bacons and eggs for lunch. With the amazing mountain view right in front of me. It was truly a bliss. And I definitely over-ordered but I managed to gobble up everything on the plates. Because I needed the fuel. And the fuel tasted good!
The last 4 hours along the trail to Rif. Schelernhaus, it was a steep ascent, luckily the paths were wide and very manageable. The sounds of cowbells plus the marvelous view made the experience felt like being in heaven.
Do these cows roaming on the Alps, breathing the crisp clean air, realise that they are truly the elite of their species? Compare with their cousins who are bred and killed in the slaughterhouse, which they probably are not aware of, these cows are already living in heaven their whole life! The same analogue also applicable to humankind…
As I was climbing up, I look at the tiny hikers at the height above me, thinking to myself, how am I gonna reach there? But step by step, eventually I will get there. Yes, I did, I just need to keep
on walking forward, breathed in the oxygen fully to make sure my body and mind were aligned, before making the next step. It was practically a mindfulness practice. Then I surprised myself that I arrived at the height I doubted if I could ever reach.
I had a hearty dinner at the rifugio, same as my lunch (pasta and baked potato with egg bacon), salad and apple strudel. I slept at the shared dorm at the attic of the rifugio, and luckily no one snored! I had a good sleep from 9pm to 6am.
Day 2 I did not study the map before the whole trip. I only knew I just need to follow the given directions and the designated trails. The paths are well marked and clear, they said. Just stay on the trail, it is impossible to get lost in the mountain, they said. Yes these are all true. But. If I miss the sign, I will end up in a totally different place. The trails rarely converge. Even if they do, it will be tens of miles away.
Most importantly, I had no idea on the steepness of each trails and
terrain. Were these trails narrow or wide? Scree or firm road? On a mountain plateau or by the cliff? No ideas! Partly because I underestimated the difficulty of some part of the trails. Mostly are due to my laziness to study the map.
Apart from the map, I also severely underestimated the importance of wearing a pair proper hiking boots and trekking pole. These are life-savers that I did not bring. I wore a regular running shoes, and did not bring a trekking pole. The irony was, I was at Decathlon in Milan, checking out the poles, it was about 10 euro. And I did not buy it, thinking I wanted to have less things to bring. At the moment being stuck at steep trail, I would be very willing to pay ten times the price to buy a trekking pole to save me from all these traumas.
And I learnt my lesson on this day. It caused a panick attack that night, I almost cannot fall asleep.
My first scare encounter was at the narrow path with scree slope. If I slipped, I could have ended at the bottom of the valley at unimaginable depth. I
had to take off my huge backpack and crossed the scree while half squatting/kneeling down, while my hands were grabbing any solid surface that I could anchor on. As I moved forward in squat/kneel position, I pushed my backpack forward.
Other hikers would have easily crossed that part effortlessly with the help of trekking pole and boots with good grip.
Similar encounters happened quite a few times on day 2. I almost cried when I reached the Rifugio Antermoia, the paths leading to the rifugio was about 2 hours walk on steep scree, I was sufficiently traumatized. Objectively, it was not that challenging/dangerous. My difficulty came from me being underequipped.
And when I arrived in Rif Antermoia, 80% of the hikers were elderly with full head of white hair! I was so surprised. Did they come from the same trail that I used? Was there another easier trail? Did they actually come by cable car? If there is transport service, I would very much like to use to descend from here. But no, no easy way, both in and out. The elderly hikers are just that fit and of course they are experienced and well equipped.
That night, I finally took out the map, still in mint condition, unfolded it and studied frantically to check the alleviation and steepness the route that I will take tomorrow. The planned route for my 3
rd day seemed to be even more challenging, lots of trails along the cliff and steep terrain, there was even a small part that marked as via Ferrata, even though the tour agent assured me that these are just normal path that are reinforced with security rope. I consulted one of the solo hikers, she recommended me to take the path that she used today to arrive to Rif Antermoia. The only unavoidable challenging path is to get out of Rif Antermoia. I first had hike up to the ridge via scree slope, then make the steep descent to Rif Princippe. After Rif Princippe, the trails leading to Ciampedie will be easy and wide.
I struggled to fall asleep for 30 mins, my mind was still overthinking on the scary moments during the day, scaring myself for the unknown tomorrow. If I did not get enough rest, fatigue while hiking on challenging slope could really lead me to disaster. I managed to fall asleep,
trying to not make too many turns on the bed, worried that I may wake up the hikers in the dorm.
Day 3 It comforted me a little when I saw two hikers also wore running shoes, without the help of trekking poles as well. But they hiked fast and soon I cannot see them anymore while I was struggling to reach to the ridge at Passo di Antermoia.
At the beginning of the hike, I found a stick around the length of 30cm, it was the best alternative for walking stick. Yesterday, I asked the staffs at rifugio if they had any trekking poles to sell, they said no. Later at night, I tried my luck to ask again, still no, with a firm answer “You already asked this afternoon and I said no”. Now, this tiny stick seemed like a gift from god. It helped me a little to do the ascent, but it was useless when I needed to make my way down from Passo di Antermoia.
The anxiety and fear exhausted a lot of my physical and mental energy. There were not many hikers around. They started early and they
hiked fast. I was struggling to catch each breath, carefully watching where I land my feet and hands. Until it got to the part where I literally had to sit down and slowly glided myself down the steep scree, so that I would not topple and fall off the cliff.
Then a god-sent angel came. Andrea, I will forever remember the name of this kind soul who offered to give me both of his trekking poles!
I was sitting on a rock, trying to overcome the fear of height, slow down to catch a breath and take a moment to admire the view. Andrea passed by from opposite direction. He was going up to Rif Antermoia. He asked if I needed sugar and if I was okay, apparently I looked pale and nervous. I frankly told him I was not okay. I wore the wrong pair of shoes and underequipped.
When he learnt that I was alone, he offered me both of his trekking poles just to make sure I get down from the ridge safely. He saved my life. I asked if I could buy from him instead, he declined, he said he didn’t need the
poles. He wasn’t looking for anything in return, simply an act of kindness to those in need. He offered some tips on to make the descent safely, like to position the shoes at perpendicular angle while going down hill, don’t over-rely on the poles.. We didn’t manage to exchange contact and we parted in opposite directions. Millions thanks Andrea, that was the best souvenirs that I have gotten in Dolomites, I will keep this in mind so that I can forward this kindness to anyone in need next time.
One I got to Rif Princippe, the trail to Ciampedie made me so happy that I could sing. It was an easy way out to go back to civilization, but it was okay. I was not looking for a hardcore challenge. By 2pm I already reached to Vigo di Fassa, final part by cable car. I then took a bus to Karersee to my hotel, and snuggled up in a comfortable bed, like the I was not scared-shit that morning.
Venice
I wished that I would have liked this city more. It did not click with me. The overwhelming tourist crowds drained the soul of this
historical city. I only spent less than 5 hours in the Venice island, I wished that I had more energy and excitement to explore further. But sadly, it felt like being stuck in a maze full of charming old buildings. Maybe next time, I will visit this place again with different mood and company, I might like it next time, maybe.
Other time and day, I briefly strolled around the Mestre area, while washing my dirty hiking laundry at the self-service laundry shop.
On my last day’s morning in Venice, I remember it was 9 Sep, I was heading to Rome by train. But I only realized that day was national strike day by the train staffs. Some trains were cancelled. Luckily mine was only delayed for 2 hours.
Rome
I spent most days in this city alone, total 6D5N. Thinking that this would be my last stop of my trip, I wanted to stay near Termini station for the convenience. However, it also meant that I will be surrounded by waves of newly arriving tourists, lots of restaurants catering for the unknowing tourists. I have visited a few restaurants that served really bad
and pricy food.
In the morning, I would head out to one or two of the attractions, as the weather was cooler before noon. And in the afternoon, I would go back to hotel to rest and nap until evening. Then I would head out again to stroll around randomly and get dinner. This is how I spent my last few days in Italy. I could randomly take a train/bus to anywhere 3 km further from the city centre, where there were more sights of local activities. There would still be some lesser known attractions and ruins to visit, and the food tends to be better as well further from the tourist concentrated areas.
Vatican City
It was my second last day in Italy. I planned to spend a whole day in and around Vatican City. But I didn’t, I went back to hotel before lunch because my mood was ruined at the start of the day.
My prime experience guided tour to Vatican Museum started at 7.30am. I woke up early around 5.30am before the sunrise to prepare for the day with full of excitement. I wanted to make full use of the
last full day in Italy. When I arrived outside Vatican City by bus around 6.40am, I walked along and very close to the Vatican City wall. Enjoying the cool breeze and excited for my first guided tour in the holy state, suddenly a splash of pigeon dropping landed on my shirt. Some tiny green droplets on my hair, pants and shoe as well.
Shit happened, literally. In less than 1 hour, the tour will start. There was not enough time to go back to my hotel to get my clothes changed and come back, it would take at least 1 hour. The next thing that came to my mind was the souvenir T-shirt, but it was too early in the morning, no shops were open. Looking at the pesto-like dropping that soaked into my shirt, the size of a big toe. I told myself this inconvenience was not big enough to forgo the ticket, that I bought a month ago, which was the only last ticket left for the whole week. I was lucky to have bought that last ticket although it costed more than any other entrance tickets that I have bought for the entire trip.
My
rational mind took over. I took out my wet tissue, wiped off the green stain, squeezed out any shit liquid into the wet tissue. Sprayed rubbing alcohol on it generously, wiped and squeezed with wet tissue. Repeat a few times until the rubbing alcohol ran out.
I was already running late, I walked to the St Peter Square, passed thru the security check, walked into the biggest church in the whole wide world, unable to find the entrance to the museum. It turned out, the museum entrance was at other side of the city, another 15 minutes walk. It was around 7.05am. I had to check in for the tour by 7.15am. I ran. (Oh yes before that, I also spent a good 10 minute in the toilet, washing and drying the front part of my shirt.)
The tour experience was excellent. Knowledgeable guide, minimal groups of visitors. The price ticket was 3-4 times the regular price, but with 10 times less the tourist crowds during regular hours. It was totally worth the price! And it included a very hearty American breakfast at the central garden of the museum. But I did not have much appetite after the
incident. After breakfast, I revisited the museum alone without the guide, this time it was already past 9am, the crowds were insane.
And for the lunch I bought a focaccia with pesto and mozzarella. Only then I realized it somehow resembled the shit stain from this morning. Back to hotel, I washed from head to toe with lots of shampoo, thoroughly. The gag reflection from this morning’s disgusted feeling came as soon as I reached the hotel bathroom. After the long shower, I sat on my bed, feeling clean and comfortable, enjoying the pesto focaccia like a psychopath.
Overall, I am very happy to take the 2 weeks off. This is not a fully relaxing trip, I faced quite a few inconveniences, such is life. At some point, checking the lists of attractions feels like a tiring 9-5. I have no shame and guilt in taking time off to rest and go at my own pace. I would very much like to revisit Italy again, to explore some of the Dolomites, with better equipment and preparation.
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