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Published: November 18th 2008
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Bolzano - Ten days in the sky
If you enjoy the excitement of exploring the worlds wonders coupled with the Baccean joy of indulging in local wines: Think South Tryol, think The Dolomites. This region in Northern Italy is so far north that half the population speaks German, which is great as it means you get Italian style and cafes, hand in hand with great salamis and fabulous cheeses. All just a few hours by train from Milan.
Moka and I based ourselves at Moosebaur campsite, nestled behind an orchard at the base of the valley wall and only a fifteen minute bike ride from the town centre. Bolzano/Bolzen is a European town built around Piazza Walther, (named after a local poet of the 1800’s) and the duomo, a splendid example of gothic architecture, and surrounded by vineyards and majestic mountians.
One of the attractions in the area is cycling. The cycle paths are independent to the main roading system and as such offer a safe and user friendly network of routes all around the area. Trains even have a separate carriage where you lock your bikes, offering access to some of the most spectacular lakes,
sunken cities, castles and of course vineyards.
Because Bozano is situated at the lower end of the Adige Valley, which begins near the Austrian border and continues into Verona, there is a lot of easy flat riding to be had alongside the smooth silver Aldige River. There are also several cable cars that give you access to great panoramic views of the valley and the patchwork of vineyards miles below, without having to do any uphill cycling. The ride down is quite mad and reminds you that one glass of wine with lunch would have been enough.
Perched west across the river, watching over the town like a dutiful father is Castel Firmiano. The first tower was built by the Romans and it has been added to over the years. Now it is home to an insightful museum dedicated to the relationship between mankind and the mountains, designed by Reinhold Messner - one of the regions children. (He was the first man to climb all of the worlds 14 mountains over 8000 metres.) You will walk away with more questions than answers, however this is not only part of its beauty and success, but its intention.
At 2700m
The Dolomites barren appearance is due not only to their dramatic vertical rock faces but also natural erosion, leaving slips as large as the peaks themselves. It is easy to see why they have a reputation for looking like old men witnessing time.
A train ride to San Candido brings you to the base of the three Zimmmens, three es[ecially high points that are distinguishable from miles away. (Be sure to triple check train times when going here though as they are not regular and one connection finishes at 7pm.) When you reach the alpine line, the trees are replaces by tussock and grass and then just rock. The path weaves around and through slips, at times becomes a mere sliver along a ridge, making you feel a bit like a tight rope walker.
Although mountains are the main attraction here, there is also so much more to do: Go to the sunken city in Lake Venosta where all that can be seen is a few walls and the top of a church steeple. Spend the afternoon at Lake Molten appearing like an oasis in the middle of the forest, or the echoing waterfall in Terlan/Terlano. There are so
many adventures to have that even if it does rain, it will do little to dampen the spirits.
Every day on any good holiday, should wind down with a glass of fine wine, good food and great friends. There are Despar supermarkets eveywhere stocked with a wide range of local produce to choose from, as well as several restaurants framing Piazza Walther that serve a delectible array of pasta dishes and delicious local cusine.
Lagrin is the main grape variety grown in the area, and you can visit an enotecha in town to taste several of the grower’s wines before you purchase a bottle or two. Just remember that everything except a few cafes will be closed on Sundays. For something a little more unique you can visit one of the wine-growers themselves - St Magdalene’s is only a short walk from the town centre offering tasting and information about its wine production. It is an old establishment that makes you feel like you are not only in another country but another time.
Winding down for the day we sip our Lagrin, and watch the sky turn magical pinks and oranges. As the hills become silhouettes, drawing curtians
over the day, I feel a sense of complete calm wash over me. And I smile.
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