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Published: October 31st 2006
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Chapter 22
Cefalu - On top of the world (and some very dead people)
The receptionist had recommended Cefalu as a good place for a day trip, but Maya first wanted to see the Capuchin monks’ catacombs just off the Piazza Indipendenzia. Three buses later, they reached the house of the dead. Martin had been a little reserved about seeing dead people on display, not so much because they were dead but the fact that they were on display. A monk in traditional attire let them into the crypt. The tombs were originally for the Capuchin monks, the first of whom was entombed in 1599.
Over the years they were joined by professionals, women, nobility and children until the last person to be placed there was in 1920; a young girl called Rosalia. The doctor who had embalmed her had developed a new technique which he never shared with anybody else. The process was so remarkable that almost 75 years later, Rosalia had not changed an iota, she simply looked like a doll in a shrine.
World War II had caused some damage to the tombs as did a fire in the sixties, but now restored the
catacombs are very much open to the public. Walking down to the cavern via a staircase they reached the bottom and there in front of them were hundreds of dead bodies, in various stages of decay. Some still had facial hair, others had no skin at all, some were hanging vertically, others had the dignity of laying in a coffin. Every single one was a reminder of one’s destiny, the end result, almost unreal yet very real indeed.
Some looked to have died peacefully, others looked in pain, contorted faces, anguished, desperate faces. The children were even sadder, their short lives, torn away from them, to end up being vacuum glanced by prying tourists. The catacombs were to provide a respectful historical and cultural perspective. Martin found it disrespectful, extremely fascinating yet it made him even more convinced cremation was for him. The place was beyond eerie, it is a time line of death, not just from 1599 to 1920, but from childhood to adulthood, from the beginning of life until it’s very end. It was the most bizarre sight either of them had experienced. The morbid fascination with one’s own destiny was overwhelming, some fresh air was
very much needed.
They headed back to station to catch the train to Cefalu, a coastal village overshadowed by “Il Rocco” castle which looms on a huge rock behind the village. Upon arrival it soon became apparent that the recommendation was going to live up to its expectation. Walking down from the station, they soon reached small winding roads, rustic houses on both sides, extremely pretty and very much a village feel to it. Along the road, a beautiful piazza opened up with a stair case leading to “Il Duomo”, a very Norman/Arabic church, well worth a visit once it opens.
The road led all the way down to a small fishing port with great views across the bay and fairly clean waters. The beach on the other side provided a bare-footed paddle (the water was freezing) and a little tranquillity. That was until a load of Italian (not French) teenagers (do they not go to school!) couldn’t have encroached any more on our two, practically sitting on their laps they were so close which rather spoilt the peace.
At first glance the castle on the hill did not seem like a viable option especially after all
the climbing in Sorrento, however it did look like a provider of majestic views, so after some deliberation, they tackled the climb.
Tourist Site 21: La Rocca & The Temple of Diana History: If you want to get near the legacy of the Gods, then exercise your legs by climbing La Rocca, Cefalu’s fortified mountain. After some twenty minutes you will come across Diana’s Temple; a megalithic building dating back to the 11th century BC, the only pre-classical monument in Sicily The foundations consist of large interlocking stones The remains of an apse and arched windows are visible in the rear and interior of the temple. Beyond the temple, much of the mountain is wooded with stone pines and other trees - a place worthy of a goddess. The Byzantine era saw Cefalu thriving as the seat of a Greek bishop. Saracen raids in the 8th century drove its residents away from the sea to seek refuge on top of La Rocca. The inhabitants didn’t permanently descend again until 1131, when Roger II ordered the town’s reconstruction. To get to the top requires a stiff climb up a rough track from the temple (about 45 minutes), but well
worth the panoramic views of the town, sea and mountains.
Martin’s comments: The climb wasn’t too hard going, walking through shaded woodlands to the first level where Diana’s temple lay in ruins. On the top level the climb became very worthwhile where ramparts and ruins provided a fabulous setting for incredible views of the bay and surrounding hills. Martin quite literally climbed a top the highest part and felt like he was on top of the world. Truly exhilarating especially after all the death in catacombs that morning, here one truly felt alive. They gently strolled back down and indulged in a cocktail down below amongst all the families strolling along at this time of carnival. The train and later the bus brought them back to finish the evening with another Chinese (it was so near the hotel) and bed. A fantastic day! Highlight: Cefalu Acommodation: 55 euros per night
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