Rambling on the Yellow Brick Road April, 2009

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Photos are on Flickr at April 2009 NYC-Sardinia-Madrid

Day - Thursday April 16

I arrived at my niece's on Long Island yesterday after a 2 hour delay in Philadelphia. She lives in Ronkonkoma. I went into NYC today. She of course went into work much earlier. Her neighbor took me to the train station at 9 because I had to meet the tour group at noon. I rode the LIRR (Long Island Rail Road) for over an hour passing garbage strewn all along the right of way. There were many building adorned with the latest graffiti artist's work. We stopped every 5 to 10 minutes at stations with names like Ronkokoma, Wyandach, Islip and Bethpage.The scenery was all people, cars, trucks, buses, buildings, housing developments, and the only open spaces were cemeteries.

The train was relatively clean and quiet running and smooth. Them only bright spot in the scenery was because spring has almost sprung here and there were bunches yellow forsythia dotting the way.

I took a little snooze and woke up in the noisy dark tunnels. Like being in an amusement park scary ride. I got off at he last stop Penn Station. I found my way to the E train subway. I felt like I was in the belly of a beast with a tremendous stomach ache. The roar of the approaching subway made my heart flutter and the rumble and shaking and roar was enough to cause the faint of heart to tremble. I got on the first train.

Born in Brooklyn Lost in NYC . Great title for a book right?! The direction say to take the E train. Well the first E train was going UPTOWN I needed to go DOWN TOWN. So I got off at the next station. No E train came along. There was a B train, An F train and V train and I even saw the A train going to Far Rockaway where I grew up. I almost took it. I guess when I lived here in NY I was in a rush like everyone seems to be because I never noticed there was a little man, in a little window, on the train. I asked him how to get to 4th Ave in Greenwich Village. He said blah blah blah. So I did and then got turned around again. Up the stairs, left, right, left, down the stairs. And then I saw a little woman, in a little window, on the train and she said, "Honey, just jump on this here train and I'll tell you where to get off." And people say New Yorkers aren't friendly. They're great.

So I got to the tour site half an hour early. The leader was there and I asked her if she needed my paper work and she said no everyone was here so we should get started. After tasting pizza and olive oil she realized there was an extra person...me and she told me to go across the street to the tour just starting. That tour leader had been calling my name for 10 minutes. Oh well I got to have another slice of pizza and taste more olive oil.

The tour I took is called "The Original Greenwich Village Food and Culture Walking Tour" It is ...A food tasting journey through an old Italian neighborhood...

We explored the winding tree-lined streets of the historic West Village and went to classic "mom and pop" specialty food shops, Italian eateries, and charming neighborhood restaurants. The history, culture, architecture, and entertainment offerings that makes Greenwich Village so unique from the rest of New York City was presented. I didn't know what a literary speakeasy from the roaring 20's was now I do. This one is or should I say was, called Chumley's. It had stacks and shelves of books but folks went there to imbibe in the illegal booze. The owner was friends with the local police captain and before a raid the captain would call Chumley and say, "86 it". He couldn't very well say we're coming on a raid now could he? That meant the customers would slide the bookcases back and exit into and alley while the police were coming in the front door. That's supposedly where the phrase 86 it come from.

The old Italian neighborhood, hidden gardens and the narrowest house in NYC where really interesting. The number on the house is 75 and 1/2 and it it only 9.5 feet wide. There were painters inside and I looked in and could see the original tin ceilings. . I didn't pay attention to who the famous people were who lived there.

During this tour I tasted a variety of food specialties that has secured Greenwich Village's reputation as being one of the greatest culinary and cultural centers of the world. This tour claims to have the secrets to having the ultimate food and cultural experience off the beaten path! This is where we stopped (NOT in this order); and what we tasted

* Murray's Cheese Shop - the best cheese shop In NYC! (Est. 1940) fresh Parmesan cheese, drunken goat cheese, a brie of some sort plus vinegar pickles, no salt olives and sopreseta salami...don't hold me to ANY spelling.
* Faicco's Italian Specialties - Family owned and specializing in handmade Italian delicacies (Est. 1900) anadini (little orange because of the way it looks) rice and cheese and rolled and fried. Not greasy at all.
* Milk & Cookies - An authentic 1950's style bakery (Est. 2005) a chocolate chip cookie the size of 2 hands, fresh from the oven
* Rocco's - A southern Italian pastry shop (Est. 1972) cannolis-a crisp tube filled with a sweetened ricotta cream and chocolate chips
* O & Co. - A Mediterranean olive oil shop (Est. 1998) bread from Amy's bakery with buttery olive oil on one side and Parmesan pesto on the other. they said 85%!o(MISSING)f the grocery store olive oil is probably not pure olive oil but has in it SOME olive oil but mot oil from crushed nuts and seeds.
* Joe's Pizza - A classic NY style pizzeria (Est. 1974) obviously pizza The sauce is from JUST marzano tomatoes, actually no sauce, fresh mozzarella cheese and only four pizzas are made at a time. It is said the water in NYC is very hard and therefore not much salt and that's what makes the NY pizza great. It wasn't what I had in mind but whatever I'm off to Italy tomorrow!
* Centro Vinoteca - stylish Italian restaurant (Est. 2007)

I was very tired and I still had 2 hours before I was to meet Jodie for dinner and a tour around 42nd street. I was going to go to catch a ferry to Liberty Island (and/or nearby Ellis Island) and explore the park grounds but when I asked I was told that is a 4 hour trip. So here is just a bit of information even though I didn't go.

The Statue of Liberty National Monument is one park that is comprised of Liberty Island ( where the Statue is located) and Ellis Island, the historical federal immigration processing center.

Located on a 12 acre island, the Statue of Liberty Enlightening the World was a gift of friendship from the people of France to the people of the United States and is a universal symbol of freedom and democracy.

Ellis Island is part of the Statue of Liberty National Monument.
Opened on January 1, 1892, Ellis Island became the nation's premier federal immigration station. In operation until 1954, the station processed over 12 million immigrant steamship passengers. The main building was restored after 30 years of abandonment and opened as a museum on September 10, 1990.

I did go to the construction site of the World Trade Center. Truly replacing the World Trade Center would be impossible but New York City is working on plans to build a single tower on the site the twin towers and it will be the tallest building in the world when it is completed.

The tower and mast are expected to reach an astonishing 1776 feet (541 meters) into the sky. The height of 1776 feet was chosen as a reference to the year of American independence. The decision of how to rebuild the World Trade Center has been a difficult one in light of political and security concerns.

I waited for Jodie in the plaza in front of her building. I won't list all the things and people I saw. I don't like reading long lists so I won't type one. . If you can imagine it I saw it. Tall short, thin wide, dark light, fancy humble and every variety of every kind. Even bugs bunny. If you say Did you see ... I will say yes. and Elmo. It was great fun and I even munched on a salted NY pretzel while I watched people.

Jodie cane down and we walked to dinner and then she played tourist along with me as we meandered around Times Square. The Crystal Ball is still up for 2009 and is the first time it will remain all year. Everything in Tines Square is super sized. The signs, the traffic, the lights and the amount of people. It has really changed! Even the New York City Police Department sign is in flashing neon!

A fun day.

Tomorrow I'll do absolutely nothing until 4 when we leave for JFK for our flight at 7:30PM. Hopefully I'll be able to sleep on the way to Europe.

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 2

From Alghero - I only have 2 minutes because class let out late and this place closes at 1. Here is what I typed up yesterday.

We left Jodie's for the airport at 3:45 and arrived at 4:45 and were sitting in the Delta Sky Lounge which just just around the corner from our gate at 5:15. Smooth sailing getting checked in and through security. Pleasantly surprised considering it's NY-JFK.

We had something to eat and something to drink, I had a double Baileys. Jodie was impressed and took the ease and comfort as a good omen to begin the trip. Since our flight didn't board until 7 we walked around the duty free shops and boutiques. There was a Brookstone and I got a little speaker for my Itty Bit so Jodie and I can watch, and listen, to movies. I had them take it out of the box and I put it in my purse. I asked if there was anything else in the box or that I needed. The sales lady said no and off we went. We meandered a bit more and returned to the lounge. As we rounded the corner of our gate there was what I thought was another flight to Madrid that was boarding. I thought it was strange to have 2 flights for the same place so close together and Jodie said that's our flight. I said it wasn't because the gate sign said Air France with a 4 digit number. Our flight was Delta #126 and didn't board until after this flight took off.

We went back in the lounge. For some reason I thought to checked the speaker and found it didn't have the connecting wire. So off I went, back to Brookstone. This time a guy sales person got the box out of the trash and sure enough there was the wire. He also said, BTW you need 3 AAA batteries. Nice I asked all this earlier!. I walked back and to my surprise at the door to the lounge ...there was Jodie with all our stuff - the carry-ons, my cane, jackets, coats... because...the flight time changed and it didn't BOARD at 7 it was LEAVING at 7! We had under 5 minutes before they left the gate. They closed the door just after we sat down. Poor Jodie was a little stressed.

The flight was uneventful. Watched Yesman and The Express. Nothing much. Entertainment is all. Food was typical airline. Jodie snoozed. I couldn't. Madrid was relatively simple too. A little confusion just as we were getting off in terminal 3 and getting the wheelchair but that worked out just fine. Samuel took us to baggage claim, got our bags, got is through customs to Ryan Air all they way on the other side of the airport at terminal 1 to check in. We had tried to check in on line but couldn't and were expecting a hassle but it went smoothly and quickly. Then he took us all the way back through security and to the gate. We had a little over an hour to wait. Well there are no seat assignments so as soon as the agent showed up the people got on line. Documentation had to be checked with passports and there was a carry-on bag sizer right there. Ryan Air charges for everything. There are signs and announcements saying ONLY ONE CARRY-ON PER PERSON. That MEANS CAMERA, PURSES, PCs EVERYTHING. ONE BAG. More than one then pay a checked bag fee or the bag doesn't go. Jodie was having a cow. What will I do if I can't take this on? I better repack some things. What happens if there's no gate check? I have traveled when they didn't allow for gate check. I tried to tell her not to worry and she insisted she wasn't. She said she just wanted a plan. Whatever. I guess my jet lag combined with pain pills and loraz kept me in a whatever mode. She still kept asking what if...? ???? I just put the locks on my bag and waited. Well, when it was our turn, we went straight through. No problem. And the bags fit in the overhead just fine! What an air line. This is the airline that caused an uproar when they wanted to start charging for use of bathrooms on board!

Flying west from Madrid to Sardinia we passed over beautiful islands and magnificent colored water of the Mediterranean. We arrived on time in Alghero, Sardinia, found a taxi right away and got to the old town address half an hour early. What a lovely old town. It dates back to 350,000BC! However...the address provided by Untours was missing a digit and we were standing in front of a shop a #9. It should have been 19, which we walked past twice. So while I was off looking to find something that didn't exist Jodie got something to eat, I think it was octopus pizza. Anyway, she was sitting on my cane seat and some Italian locals said in Italian, look at the lady sitting there eating and took her picture. Jodie said that's it for sitting on the cane seat. I called our hostess, got her phonemail and hoped I left a message for the right person. It was and she came and showed us around the town and had a snack with us. She said the locals probably thought Jodie was a Spanish street performer, like the mimes we have in the States because she had all the luggage and that particular corner is where they perform. It would have been even funnier if they had put some money down for her.

Since the shops were closed and dinner isn't until late Jodie walked all around the town while I took a happy nappy. Then she did too for about an hour. We just got back from having a nice sit down meal. I had Sardinian Pork with cheese and a delicious sauce and Jodie had spaghetti with fish roe. For desert we shared a Sardinian fried pastry filed with sweet cheese and topped with honey. Very interesting.

I have no connection to the Internet and will send this off when I find a wi-fi area. Will put more in about Alghero then. Now it's time for bed.

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 2

Yesterday we finally found a grocery just outside of the old town area and got a few things for the apartment. This morning we had strawberries and oranges and tea and then went to the square and had an Italian breakfast of cappuccino and croissant. Yummy! And we're here, in a little hole in the wall pastisary doing what the Sardinians do. Way Cool. The soft apricot shade of the sandstone buildings comprised of the many boutiques, cafes, bars and restaurants makes Alghero a very picturesque Old Town.

It doesn't matter that it is Sunday. Store hours are the same 10 - 1 then 5 or 6 or 7 until - 8 or 9. That means no food or shopping during siesta. The only stores open are the Cafes and gelato places.

We walked around the narrow cobbled streets of Alghero a bit more and got back about noon. Jodie went for a happy walk/jog and I went for a happy nappy. (So they call it siesta, whatever) Not really jet lag just a lot of physical activity. When Jodie got back we went for another walk about to find something to eat, even though no restaurants are open until later and to find an internet cafe. We knew there were a few places catering to snackers and the guide book named a, one, internet place.

We walked through many piazzas, past palazzos and on up along the ancient walls. The old fort's ramparts which surrounds the city along the sea and you sense the unhurried, relaxing charm. A beautiful day to do that too. Fantastic blue sky, warm sun, the sea and lots of people watching.

Back among the web of narrow streets, washing hangs beneath the shuttered windows of tall, tightly packed houses. Peeling stucco shows the ancient stone of building inhabited 800 years ago. We did a wash this morning too and hung it out on a line. We are three floors up and ooops I dropped a sock down on the balcony below us and it appears it is not lived in. There is a ladder in the apartment that we could use by bringing it down to the lower level and climbing up to the balcony. But Jodie wants to wait to use it just in case I drop another something and we'd have to do it again.

We still couldn't find a snack place so we just kept walking. We looked down little alleyways, cobblestone paths, hidden gardens, and found lots of photogiraffic pimentos all over the place but no food and no Internet. One place we asked said they do have internet but it's not possible today. (Why? Because it's Sunday?) Of course he was speaking Italian and we didn't really understand most of what he said other then no food, no internet. I felt like I was in the chocolate joke.

Most of the stores have been designed to maintain the look of the old fort. The eating places have tables outside shades with umbrellas and it's fun just to be walking around in this atmosphere. We finally found a place to eat, outside. I had lasagna and Jodie had something like eggplant parm. Not bad.

The sun was still warm and we continues walking and meandering and ended up just outside the old city by the sea promenade. So many people and some how you just knew you weren't in Kansas any more. I didn't bring a hat with me and all of a sudden I realized Jodie was the only person in site wearing a hat. No caps, or hats, or berets or any head coverings. Jodie started laughing because she was the only person, young or old, wearing a cap. Then we started noticing one cap here and one hat there but that was it!

We also noticed the everyone, and I mean virtually everyone was eating gelato. Well we couldn't be the only ones NOT eating gelato now could we??? M-M-M chocolate gelato. Mmmmm

What a lovely town to be staying in and with apartment right in the center it's very convenient. We start language classes tomorrow morning which is a 5 minute walk. We're going to ask them if they know of someone who can take us out to the countryside or farm or nuraghe, a stone tower built around 1,500 BC.

Tonight we went to eat around 8:30 and found a lovely restaurant. When we walked in it felt like we entered somebody's home with couches, cocktail tables full of magazines, bookcases and a host taking your coat and hanging it in an armoire. The menu was nouveau riche and for me it was hard to select something because there was one ingredient in the mix I didn't care for. I settled for swordfish balls stuffed with potato and olives but had them put the monk fish roe and mint sauce on the side. I didn't care for the sauce however the balls were “LOVELY”. Jodie said her dish was spectacular. It was a bit pricey but we expected that. We both agree pasta and pizza and salad is good for the remainder of our time.

We walked home in the darkened street because it was almost 11 and they do roll up the cobblestones then the shops close. We felt perfectly safe and there were still lots of people.

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 4

We got up at 8:30, had our Italian breakfast of coffee latte and croissants, got lost, found the school and started speaking only in Italian...NOT!!! The instructor tried to but I just couldn't. She said something and I'd go HUH? It was fun though. We had a cafe break with the other students and Nicola the landlord. I told her about the slats falling out of the bed and she said, “Really? The other people never mentioned that as a problem.” Well..it is a problem and when I sit on the mattress it falls in between the slats. She said I thought you were in the big bed. I said NO I am in the twin room. She said well change beds. Whatever.

There are 6 other students, 3 from Belgium, 2 from Australia and I don't remember where the other is from. They are taking immersion classes not like us just survival class. We covered numbers, greetings, months, seasons and were told to memorize the lists. Uh Huh! Or not! I'll get out of it what I can. It's good to hear it spoken one on one so we can ask questions and hopefully understand better.

Here is what the brochure says about our Italian school:
Pintadera is a small Italian language school located in a quiet and picturesque alley of the Old Town of Alghero on the 'Coral Coast' of the Italian island of Sardinia. Welcoming and relaxing, the school offers the perfect atmosphere for learning the Italian language and gaining a unique insight into Sardinian culture. They take language out of the classroom and onto the streets of Alghero. All five senses are activated during the learning process - not only do you listen and speak, but you eat, sleep and breathe Sardinia. We have done this and it's only Tuesday.

After class it was pouring and we found an internet place open for a few minutes which was just long enough to send out the journals so far and escape the rain which stopped by the time we left. WE stumbled around the cobbles for a little bit and found a place still serving pizza. Now we're back at the apartment with nothing to do. Oh well must be happy nappy time. Some neighbors were laughing and talking loudly and playing guitar until 2 AM so not such a bad idea except oh yeah the slats that hold up the mattress have fallen out.

One of the ladies at the school said there is a red bus that goes round trip for 2 hours and it's a lovely drive but you can't really get off because if you do there is not enough to see and do for 3 hours and that's when the bus returns. We also found out there are no tour operators at this time of year, no drivers for hire either and the winter weather has closed the grotto for visits inside. So...we're thinking we should rent a car and go out scouting on our own. That'll be another day. Not this afternoon.

We watched one of the DVDs I brought, Marley and Me. It was sweet but no awards and kinda sappy and sad. We decided we should go out for a walk along the promenade. Jodie had seen a car rental place yesterday. We got to it and I asked Tomaso, the car rental guy, if he knew of someone who would be willing to be our driver/tour guide and spoke Inglese. He asked if a navigator would be okay and smiled his Italian smile. I said sure, I'd be happy to drive with someone who knew the way and could direct me. He made a few calls. If nobody could be found then Jodie and I would come back to rent a car at 1 tomorrow after class. He would text me the answer. AH A LIGHT BULB! I may not be able to find an internet connection but I have plenty of cell bars. So I texted Dick and Amy to let them know everything was fine and having a good time.

We walked back along the promenade and then along the ramparts to view the apricot sunset. The rays of the sun shown through mist as there were lots of clouds, and boats ,and a cat lady feeding lots wild cats. She had the rocks covered with tarps so the cats would be comfy. There were little cat houses, like a dog house but smaller. She was dishing out food and pouring milk in containers. There were so many we couldn't count them.

We found another place to have dinner and by the time we returned to the apartment it was 9 o'clock. Jodie helped me move everything off the second bed so I could sleep in it.

Once again there was music until 2 AM

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 5

We got up at 8:00, tried to get hot water in the shower. We each got a couple minutes. Ate cereal in the apartment and left for school. We talked about politics. The president is more Fascist/dictator than democratic but the people elected him because he is charismatic and made lots of promises the people wanted to hear and they like him any way. He has a palatial villa in southern Sardinia along with other European royalty. If they had a choice Sardinians would choose independence from Italy because they are fiercely island proud and would prefer to be their own state. A Catalan state. Voting is not mandatory but virtually everyone votes. School is public and is mandatory until16. We conversed in Italian ...well tried to.

After the break Roberta (Robbie)took J and I for a walk about the old town. It was raining again.

She spoke only in Italian and we tried to. There was a street vendor selling umbrellas and with Robbie's help I got one. She told us the names of all the stores, what was sold in each, pointed out places of interest and restaurants with famous chefs. J & I ate at one the other night and didn't realize that it was so famous. The name is Andrieni (I think the web site is www.restauranteAndrieni.com or .it) and is THE place to eat! The guidebook says, “The maitre d' is a little haughty.” That may be however we got seated without reservations.

Galleries with famous artists and clothing boutiques with famous designers were also pointed out. It was like being on the travel channel:
Hi, I'm Dorothy and this is my Sardinian friend Robbie who will tell us about her city. Ciao Robbie.
Ciao Dorothy Did you know there are water wells in a lot of the homes and stores?
No. Tell me about this.
The water is not for drinking and some are dry. They are used for decoration let me show you a few of them.
It was very interesting and fun. She's a tiny thing and very sweet. She has all the Italian gestures which she said we will learn Friday. How cool is that?! It's not easy trying to listen to and speak Italian for several hours but it's interesting and informative and fun to have personalized attention. I can understand more but speaking so many multiple syllable words is difficult for me to remember.

BTW The cobblestones are typical from Sardinia and called in Catalan - ginchettas. You have to sing the word chin CHET tas.

As you know I have now found the wireless and the times so perhaps I can be a little more consistent. Or not.

The guy from the car rental place never texted me. Oh well it was raining anyway so we didn't go for a drive in the country. Maybe domani.

Two of the ladies from school are from Germany. One has retired here and the other is a travel agent. We asked them if they would like to go back to the winery they have already went to. We'll see.

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 6

Alghero didn't appear on history's radar until around the 13th century. That's when a small fortress port was supposedly built by the Genoese which was briefly taken by their rivals, the Pisana in the 1280s. The Catalano and Argonese also had possession and the native Sards where banished to the inland sections. These many conquering nations each had a name for the city which all referred to the salad deposited from the sea. Therefore Alghero-algae. Spanish-style palazzos and street signs in Italian and Catalan reflect the 300 years of Aragon rule.

Dick, and some others, would have an absolute gastronomic feast here as Jodie has been having. Others might lose a few pounds. Here are some of the things on tonight's restaurant's menu: oysters, octopus, squid, botargo (mullet roe), sardines, smoked fish, fish with garlic, swordfish, tuna, dorado and sausage. Of course there's ravioli, and other pastas...however...most of the dishes have botargo and if not then olive and capers...mmm...salty! I had swordfish with tomato and olive and caper in a garlic sauce and the meal and taste reminded me of La Casa de Norma. Jodie thought she was ordering scallops but it turned out to be veal scallopini in a bland lemon sauce. Probably not as good as La Casa de Norma.

This was the second time we had Sardinian bread. It's a flat bread, thinner than matzah with an onion/garlic and olive oil taste. Oh and last night at the haughty place I had asked for some butter and the maitre d' said, “We do not use any butter here!” alrighty then!!!

It's typical European service where, as we were told in Prague, ask for you bill when you order your food and pay for it when you get your food or you will wait as long for the check and your change as you did when you ordered. We didn't ask for it when we should have and waited and waited. Good thing tipping here is optional and not expected. I don't like feeling ignored.

Well we think there is a bar being constructed somewhere next to this apartment. Once again there was noise, loud talking, music and banging until 2 AM. Jodie heard really loud banging like a bridge being built after 3. She wanted to open the window and yell SILENCIO!!! But alas she didn't.

Our apartment is in the Piazza Civica just inside the Port a Mare (sea gate). It has all the characteristics of late Gothic medieval and you feel like you are back in time walking around the the busy, uneven square.

School today started with Italian breakfast with Angela, another instructor. We talked in Italianglish about comparing the two country's healthcare systems, unemployment, politics and things in general. She is not impressed with President Bellgosti (or whatever his name is) He's all flash and loves to be photographed with the beautiful ladies. After breakfast we went off to the markets and what a lovely day for this outing. Bright and sunny. Must be because I wore a coat and brought my umbrella.

First was the produce market. Each farmer brings their produce which could be any combination of vegetables and fruit. Once again I played Dorothy on the travel channel and introduced mi amica Angela. She said she thought we should be on CNN. We tasted a fruit called nespole. I have no idea what it is. (MAry wrote it is loqute) Mildly sweet with a pair of seed inside. Angela suggested I bring them back to Florida and plant them. Gee, I have no idea how they got in my pocket.

Then off to the fish market to see the octopus, squid, moray eels, rays and all kinds of fish, shrimps and lobster. The lobsters are alive, as are some of the fish. They waved their tails when picked up for customer inspection. Talk about fresh.

Next we left the old town and went to the salami and cheese shop. We tasted typical aged Alghero cheese, 3 months, 4 months, 5 months, 10 months and smoked. Jodie bought the 5 month aged with Alghero bread. Botargo is sold in this shop in vacuum bags and dried grated in jars. The very strong blackish botargo comes from tuna and is the same as caviar. The pinkish colored botargo comes from another fish and is sweet and milder. The spaghetti dish is made with the grated sweet king. There is also a spaghetti dish made with the black ink from the squid.

Jodie's camera broke and she didn't want to be without one for the rest of the trip so Angela took us to her friend's shop and Jodie bought a new one. My rechargeable batteries ran out and of course I didn't have my backups with me so I had to by 4 batteries.

Tomorrow we go to the local arts and crafts markets and shops. Blood-red Gold is red coral that is fished here and is the highest quality and “glows a dark orangey-red” The strong currents mean the little coral polyps have to work super hard to build their small coral trees, making them short, very dense and few air pockets. The coral is a precious commodity and is strictly controlled. Only 10 boats are licensed to fish mid may to mid November. The coral lives at depths of up to 500 and divers have to use decompression chambers.

The darker the color, the more smooth the piece and of course the larger is is determines the cost. Every street and alley has jewelry shops selling it from beautiful custom designs with gold or silver to tourist shops with strands of beads for home beaders. Prices run from 3 Euro to 30,000 Euro.

Jodie took off for a run along the beach to see if she could get to the closest nuraghe. I'm finishing this journal and taking a Happy Nappy. When I got up Jodie wasn't back yet so I decided I would take a walk along the promenade. I did and walked all around and even found three restaurants open and serving real food, not just snacks and drinks. Tomorrow we may try one of them if we don't go out of town.

Jodie got back and had a round trip 10 mile walk/jog. She saw olive groves, nuraghe, lonely paths with men taking leaks and the next town north. There were beautiful beaches. She thinks I probably walked ½ - ¾ of a mile. Hey pretty good for me and I didn't have my cane either. The sea and boats and warming sun made it a great day to just sit on a bench and people watch. Now you tell me how I could just sit there without having my cioccolato gelato eh?

The guidebooks say Sardinia is a gastronomic delight and they're right. We haven't had a bad meal yet and again tonight Jodie said, after cleaning her plate, “This is the best meal yet!” The problem is once we're done with dinner at 9 o'clock, and the sidewalks are rolled up, there are no eateries open except for the gelatorias. Same thing is true from 1-6 in the afternoon. Oh well, I guess when in Alghero... do as the Alghero's do...I swear there isn't one person who isn't eating gelato. We've been told it's the same as ice scream but boy oh boy it sure has a different texture and taste. Much better!!!!

There is every flavor you can imagine and if you can't imagine one there are combinations too. The new craze for women's slacks here look like sagging diapers with the crotch down to their knees and sagging and baggy. Totally not flattering. The men wear brown shoes with black suits and blue suits and striped suits. They also wear orange, and I mean bright orange slacks and red ones too. There are people, old and young, walking along holding hands and lovers kissing and hugging no matter where you look. It's like watching a European movie scene...oh wait a second...I AM in EUROPE!!! I am truly enjoying the relaxing pace and atmosphere here. (Need I mention the food and cioccolato gelato again?)

Out of necessity almost all the cars are little and I saw one half the size of a beetle. It looked like a beetle but from a movie called Honey I Shrunk the Car. I don't know how the people got into it but I saw them get out. We also saw a vehicle that was the size of a golf cart but looked like a mini Hummer. In other words a box.

i WILL WRITE ABOUT TODAY TONIGHT. iT WAS A FABULOUS DAY AND TOO MUCH TO WRITE JUST NOW. i AM SITTING OUT IN THE oIAZZA cIRVICO AND FOUND A WIFI. Ooops...bad angle for typing.

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 7 Thursday (Yesterday was in error oops)

School today was outside all morning. Angela took us for café. Then Jodie had to go back to the place where she bought her new camera because even though I down loaded the pics and they show they are there when the card is in the Itty Bit the camera doesn't see them. Long story short. Jodie renamed them on the card and the camera didn't recognize the names. Problem solved.

Then we walked through the town. Down this particular alley was an old couple. He was making fish nets and she was keeping him company shelling beans. Angela introduced us. They are married over 65 years. He is 97 and she is 86. He still fishes and is angry because his oldest son has stopped going with him. We sat and talked with them for about half an hour. We took lots of pics and I did another travel channel video. What fun!!!

After that we continued walking around with Angela explaining and pointing and speaking both Italian for us and English for her to learn better. Having a private guide for just the two of us is the only way to go. The other students have arranged for all of us to go to a farm for a typical country meal this evening and wanted to met us and ask us if we wanted to join them. Back for cafe and make arrangements for someone to pick us up in their car to bring us to the farm.

Angela brought us to an artist's consignment shop. Beautiful things. Very unique and we both got something.

I was getting a little concerned because we hadn't heard from the boat people. That sounds funny. Anyway Angela said they called the school and we were to meet Mario at the place on the corner of Piazza Civico where we stay. He took us to the dock where the boat will be moored tomorrow. It was about a mile to walk there. Back along the promenade and further along the port. The weather is magnifico! Hopefully we'll have this kind of weather when we're on the boat. I said it would be too far for us to walk with our luggage and stuff so he wrote down the information for a taxi. He then offered to drive us back to the old town. His dog, named Taxi, was in the car and Jodie sat in the child's seat in the back. He took us on a little tour of the town around the old town and showed us where his high end clients stay. WOW! He also asked if I had waterproof clothes and when I said I didn't he took us to a department store where I bought a waterproof jacket. At least I hope it is.

Mario described the ride to a medieval town called Bosa and Jodie and I decided to rent a car tomorrow and keep it until we go to the catamaran on Saturday. That way we have all Friday afternoon and Saturday until 8 PM to tour around the countryside and don't have to worry about a taxi or lugging our stuff all over the place.

We found a place to have a real lunch even though the dinner tonight is supposed to be huge. AND IT WAS!!! Once again Jodie said, “This is the best meal ever.” And this time I have to agree. The name is Le Coccinelle which means lady bug. Pronounce it like punchinella in a sing song manner. First course was all kinds of antipasto-prosciutto, salami, cheeses, olives and I can't remember what else. Then the second course was also brought out on four plate with all kinds of things and then the third course and fourth course and deserts and cafe and millineto. A unique blueberry type liquor made from berries only grown in Sardinia. There were 6 of us in all. The two German ladies, Sonny who lives here and Iza the travel guide, an Australian lady, Shevon and the guy I couldn't remember, Bernard who ia alzo German and alzo lives here. Jodie got to brush up on her German. Und I alzo learned zome chermen, ya.

It was great fun to be among such amiable people, all travelers and telling interesting stories and laughing a lot. Sonny picked us up at “zeven thurdy” and just dropped us off at 11. Perfect ending to a perfect day.

Buonanotte ...ciao ...a domani
;-D

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 8 Friday

This morning was the last morning of school and the last morning to get up to an alarm. Our lesson today was all about Italian gestures. It was really funny to have Robbie explain them to us. We showed her some of ours like the world's smallest violin player, playing hearts and flowers and the Hawaiian hello. It was sad to say ciao to our new friends. Taking this Italian language class was the best thing we could have done. It gave us the opportunity to be shown around by locals and have a one on one experience. That's the only way to tour on your own. Worth every penny and better than just a guide.

After something to eat we rented a car and I drove down to Bosa, a little over an hour south of Alghero. Of course it took longer than that because we took a turn to see a nuraghe and drove on this very narrow road and never found it. Then of course I had to go back to the coast road. It was a lovely adventure. The scenery is delightful with clumps of every color green, yellow, white, purple and pink flowers and looks like the entire scene was groomed and landscaped. Of course it's not.

Winding around the coastline cliffs and up and down the mountains was like driving a roller coaster. We did go to the beach and stretched out for about an hour. Jodie walked up the to the top of the tower at the end of the jetty and I just vegged out on the sand. I loved it. Jodie also took a lie down and fell asleep. After our rest we went to a 12th century castle, or what's left of it. Again I knew my limits and didn't even go half way up especially when a man coming down said there were over 60 steps and it was not an easy climb. That's fine with me. I don't have to push myself. After walking almost a mile Wednesday and 2 miles yesterday I'm tired. Jodie is too so I don't feel so bad. Of course she's done more than me but hey we each do what we can.

After the castle we went into town, got some cafe and gelato, (I needed to wake up.) walked around and then started back. Of course once again the hour ride took longer because we would stop for photogiraffic pimentos. Another lovely day with beautiful weather, warm sun, cool breeze and wonderful clean smelling air. We got back before the restaurants closed and Jodie finally got to have sardines in Sardinia. I had very nice fish with spinaché and cheese. I parked the car in the port parking otherwise I would have to get up to move it and I want to sleep ion tomorrow. Nicola said we can stay as long as we want because it's not booked after us and the cleaning lady doesn't come until Monday.
We'll take the car north tomorrow and get on the catamaran around 7.

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 9 Saturday

We slept in this morning and ate a leisurely shower and breakfast. That was nice to do for a change. While we were hanging out laundry on the line one of Jodie's socks and a pair of my socks dropped down unto the balcony below ours. The apartments is apparently unoccupied because the balcony has a lot of debris on it along with several dropped clothespins and our socks. So we took the ladder down on the elevator...have I told you the elevator is as wide as when I put my hands on my hips my elbows touch the sides? Anyway, we brought a hanger and broom stick but alas no luck. With what a pair of socks costs it wasn't worth any further effort.

Off to the car and headed north with Jodie navigating. She admits she has a poor sense of direction and the three or four maps we had each had different roads and town and there was no combining them. So I just picked a way to go and if we saw a town name that was listed in the tour guide we went in that direction. It was a beautiful day for a drive and I was feeling just right to drive on what looked like spiral spaghetti on the map. The roads had switchbacks, Tornante (like a U turn). We stopped all along the way to take beautiful pictures of scenes, nuraghe, mountains, lakes and towns. We saw lots of sheep and even some Sardo Lardo. PIGS. Some of the names I remember are Sássari, Floriana, Villanova, Montevedero (sp?), and - sing along with me to the tune of Volre - Banari oh oh Itteri oh oh oh oh. And another song (Kathy I miss you) I don't know why I love driving on these curvy roads. I don't know why I just do. What looks like an inch on the map takes a long tome to drive.

We stopped to ask where there was someplace to get something to eat in a town called Muro. Almost every wall is painted with a very nice mural of people and scenes and animals. Of course we posed and made like we were in the picture. There was no place open. We continued down the yellow brick road through mountain switchbacks and green fertile valleys.

We were getting more and more hungry and every little town we stopped in was closed up and shuddered. What we didn't know is that there are only three days in the year that are bank holidays when everything closes and people are off: Christmas, New Years and April 25th! It's Liberation day! Lucky us.

So we kept on driving heading back toward Alghero. Beautiful scenery. We saw a sign for a waterfall, at least we think that's what it said. We went down the lane and whatever it was, was closed. U turn time. We saw a sign for a hotel with a restaurant and turned down THAT path. U turn time. They stopped serving. Notice I don't call them roads. They were single lane and no shoulder but wild flowers of all colors grew along the way all over the place. Why in hell we put grass and have it mowed when a naturale is so beautiful I have no idea.

We saw a windmill farm with just 7 wind turbines right across from a nuraghe. We walked across the meadow and Jodie climbed into the nuraghe. It was a very small cave-like opening. Her first attempt I caught on video as she backed out screaming because there were bugs. Then we checked, made sure the bugs were gone and she actually went inside it. I was able to stick my head in but was afraid I wouldn't get out once I got in and I didn't want to be stuck in a structure built 3,500 years ago! Around 1500 BC, settlers arrivedin Sardinia from somewhere and built nuraghe which are circular fortified structures, situated so that each could easily see it's neighbor. There are many thousands of these structures which are unlike any other ruins in the world.

Arriving back in Alghero was wild. SOOOO many people. SOOO many cars. NOOOO place to park. I'll tell you what though - it's worse trying to walk when there are so many people than it is to drive. They don't move over. Kids running all around. Dogs loose. Dog poop anywhere. Bicycles, vendors. In other words chaos. Or at least to me it seemed like it was very chaotic. They seemed to be just fine with it all. The parking was horrendous but I squeezed in just like a natural born Algheran. Finally food!

We had arranged to return the car just before closing at 8 figuring we'd eat dinner, bring our bags to the marina, which is a very long walk, and then return the car. But we were tired and wanted to get the moving part over with. However, we couldn't reach the owners of the boat. DIALING THE NUMBER ON THE CELLL DIDN'T WORK. JODIE TRIED A PAY PHONE AND THAT DIDN'T WORK UCH crap... caps!

I was getting a little concerned about walking with all the luggage, or even taking a taxi so I decided to drive out to the marina and I had success. I conversed in Italinglish with the marina people. We weren't getting anywhere until I said that it was a catamaran and the wife's name is Christina and the light bulb went on. They had another number for them and were able to reach her. I spoke with here and agreed to meet at 6:30.

We went back to the apartment, packed everything up and brought the bags down. I went to where I had parked while Jodie waited with the bags. I drove up, we loaded the car and started to drive off for the dock when we realized we had to top off the tank. Okay, finding an open gas station was interesting. We passed a self serve and I pulled in. Jodie couldn't figure out what anything said. I got out too and we were both looking pretty helpless when a kind old gentleman asked if he could help. He did. We filled up. He asked if we were English. I said yes. Jodie said no we were American. He told us he was Catalan. No wonder we didn't understand most of what he said. It wasn't even Italian!

Now, with a full tank of gas I found my way back to the port and the dock, unloaded, Jodie waited there, I returned the car and the rental person drove me back. Whew...we made it. Dick, be glad you don't have to moor here. The boats are right on top of each other with just the bumpers separating them from each other.

The owners, Christina and Georgio, are very nice. She speaks Italinglish, he speaks no English but understands a bit. The boat is not what I had pictures and is a lot smaller than I was led to believe. It'll be fine and at least it is clean. We were offered fresh fruit from Christina's mother's garden. The oranges are small, like our page oranges, and are juicy and sweet. There were also typical Algheran cookies that are quite nice even if they aren't chocolate. When I say Algheran it's because it means Catalan. Not Sardinian or Italian.

Jodie walked back down the port and brought back dinner for us. The owners went off to have theirs. This will probably be an early night for me after all the driving. However, I have to wait for them to return because I cannot find an electric outlet anywhere.

Ah they're back and I have electric.! ALSO they have internet and tomorrow will bring back their PC with portable internet device.
Ciao ;-D
PS I may be able to upload some photos. Check on flickr

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Days 10

Sardinia is one of the most ancient lands in Europe. In 2004, in a cave in Logudoro a human finger bone was found that was dated up to 250,000 BC. Christina said that this year is the most rain in 300 yes 300 years! lucky us.

We were able to go for a sail today Sunday. We left after a late breakfast and sailed for about 2 hours along the beautiful panoramic clifss and coast. There are so many caves and inlets and islands and sailed to the fantastic coves of the Golfo di Orosei. The Nettuno de Grotto where we wanted to see and go inside was closed because this winter there was such a bad storm the waves collapsed the final steps to the cave and now it is closed for people and boats.

We anchored in a gentle cove and had lunch which was deliciocio and sailed back. I took a happy nappy. We got back around 7. They usually charge for dinner, 30 Euro expencivo, but offer us for free because we are so compatico. It was yummy ravioli specific to Sardinia with red and white local wine and molto mirto. A very strong after dinner drink with a fire going down the first sip and then it's good. Jodie slept until after 9:30.

Cristina and Geogio are marine biologists, expert divers, do sea bottom monitoring for environmental reasons, take soils samples, inspections and classifications of, and identification of species, repair and inspect sea platforms and use explosives when inspecting for pipes and lines underneath the ocean bottom. Fascinating people and OH MY GOD photographs.

Ramblings on the Yellow Brick Road Day 11

Today it has rained all day.
Jodie needed to walk and went into town. Cristina and I talked and looked at her pictures while I uploaded some of hers.

She told me so many things I can't begin to remember. Stories of her saving a baby dolphin and returning it to the dolphin family to sailing of the Ivory coast and being afraid of being attacked by pirates. A simple thing she told me about is the each sheep has a different shape and sound bell. The farmer then knows if they all have returned to to pens in the evening by the sound and if one is missing he knows which one it is.

There was a little leak in the bimini top and I gave them my duct tape that I carry to fix it. It worked. They use it too but didn't have any. They call it Amercano scotch. They use it for their dive equipment also which all comes from the States.

HEY - WHAT IS WITH THIS SWINE FLU BUSINESS? I hope we don't have a problem getting home!!!

Well time for a fantstico lunch of Sardinian macaroni, shrimp and mushrooms. The smell is mouth watering.

Ciao
Dorothy

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