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Published: January 7th 2017
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We stayed in a small rented house out in the country near Beverino for our visit to Cinque Terre. After we showed an inkling of enthusiasm, the effervescent keyholders called and reserved a table for us for lunch at a restaurant up the road (Trattoria La Pineta di Polverara). This kind of thing is often a scam, but the food was some of the best I’ve had in Italy (and I’ve been cooked for by a lot of Italians!). Their specialty is ravioli, and they were filling and delicious. They also offer wine from down the road at cheap prices. I would go back to that area just to eat more ravioli!
Then, we were eager to see some of Cinque Terre. After a trip to the grocery store in the mall and searching for our car on the wrong floor of the parking garage, we headed to the train station. Unaware that there were two train stations in La Spezia, we parked at the one that has fewer trains to Cinque Terre (La Spezia Migliarina), and you have to transfer in La Spezia Centrale. That first evening, we just checked out that first town, Riomaggiore. The weather
mostly held out, but unfortunately the rain was following us.
The town was scenic, and made prettier because you could walk higher to get different views. It was also fuller of art and decorative plants than I expected.
We were tired and decided to eat dinner at our place instead of out. Unfortunately, we jumped on the train back that didn’t go to our station. The stations in La Spezia are actually 50 minutes’ walk apart. So, instead, we took a train that went right past our station without stopping, got off in another town, then waited for a train that would go back to La Spezia Migliarina. I had internet so I was sure it would work. It just wasn’t the smoothest voyage. What did make us happy was raiding the vending machine for crap food to eat while waiting.
The next day was our main day to see the rest of Cinque Terre, but the weather was ugly! I think this area was the one my dad was most excited about, so we went to La Spezia Centrale this time and bought the all-inclusive day tickets. What they didn’t
tell us was that the paths between the towns were all closed due to the poor weather. I’m not sure we would have gone on them anyway, because of the rain, but it was a disappointment not to even have the chance.
This time we went right to the second town, Manarola, and explored from there. We were able to walk part of the path towards the third town (Corniglia), but we could see that a landslide had destroyed the path farther on. Even if the weather had been nice, it still would have been closed.
Now that I’m writing about this trip, four months later, the towns all kind of blend together. The most distinct town was the third, which is up on a hill, not next to the coast like the others. When we got there, it was pouring. We started to walk from the station, only to discover that the path close to the coast was flooded. Instead, we took the ‘scenic’ route. It’s probably the least beautiful town from a distance, but it has charming winding alleys and great viewpoints. We stopped at a restaurant there for lunch and warm
up and dry off. The rain had abated for our walk back down the hill to the station. The walk was pleasant, past vineyards and vegetable gardens. You could also see some of the unique vineyard inclines that workers sit on to go up and down the hills.
We probably spent the most time in the fourth town, Vernazza, which is also the most picturesque, if you can choose one. Part of the charm of Cinque Terre is that all of the towns have tiny winding alleys inaccessible to cars. You never know what you’ll see around the next corner—a dead end, a painted building with flowers around it, or a striking sea landscape. This held true for Vernazza. My parents, ever the intrepid explorers, ventured up the castle tower, while I wandered the alleys a bit waiting for them. The harbor area, with its terrace, would be perfect for a drink in the sun.
We finally arrived to our last stop, Monterosso. We strolled along the beach and shared some gelatos. We walked farther to the north along the beach and passed a cool rock carving of a man holding up part of
a house. Beyond that was a coastal path along the peninsula. Being cautious about falling rocks that signs warned us about, we walked out so that we could see the landscape of most of the five villages we’d visited.
Heading back towards the train station, we couldn’t actually find ‘the town’, which was surprising. There were some beachfront shops and restaurants, and a clear residential area, but no older center or town. We stopped for our ‘goodbye to Italy’ drink next to the boardwalk. As the sun set over the water, we finally got some nice weather. As we sat there, we realized that lots of people were walking through a tunnel past the train station, which we’d earlier assumed didn’t have much. After our drink, we checked it out, and it was the town! But by then it was almost dark, and we were ready to go home. So fyi, the town is to the left as you exit the train station, not to the right (although that area is great for a stroll, an ice cream, or a drink).
My impressions of Cinque Terre were that, yes, it is beautiful and merits
the positive exposure. The landscape is stunning, the villages are colorful and improbably placed, and the hikes between them would also be invigorating. I was put off by so many tourists, and we didn’t have the best weather in the middle of September.
Overall, this trip with my parents allowed me to see Europe through fresh eyes, but also made me value more the opportunities I had to be in less-well-known places in Italy all summer. The next day we drove directly to the Milan airport and said our goodbyes. I felt grateful to see so many wonderful places and to spend such quality time with my parents.
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Kathy Oxenreiter
non-member comment
bravo
Thanks for doing a very decent job of preserving such a wonderful trip. You may know Willis and I sometimes don't agree on some things however we are spot on with this being such a great trip. We are so happy to have wrangled you along for this part of it too.