A surprisingly wonderful day and cat trauma

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October 15



And then just like that, when you think you are ready to go home, you have another amazing day! Yesterday was like that. We got up early and fed the cats and soon were out the door. We went into Salve (nearest town) and to Caffe Roma, the bar that Catherine and I discovered over the weekend. This time we sat at an outside table in the piazza rather than standing at the bar. Sam had espresso, I had a cappuccino and we shared a chocolate cornetto. It was wonderful. Nearby 4 old men sat together on a bench. They didn't seem to talk much, but they sat together, just as they have probably done for most of their lives. Next we went into the panetteria and bought some focaccia that was filled with pizza toppings to take with us for a snack.



We took the road into Santa Maria di Leuca and stopped once more at the lighthouse which marks the southern most point of the heel of Italy. It was a beautiful day and we wandered about enjoying the views along the coastline in each direction. We tried to determine exactly where the Adriatic and the Ionian Seas come together. As bus loads of people started to arrive, we took off.



We drove north along the Adriatic coast on a route considered to be the 5th most beautiful drive in Italy. I don't know who decides these things as we have been on so many beautiful drives, but this one did not disappoint. On our left side were olive trees as far as we could see, many with trunks so thick it was clear that they were many hundred years old. On our right was the Adriatic Sea with water a deep translucent turquoise unlike anything I have ever seen. It seems you can see the bottom far out to sea, and the surface shimmered with the reflection of the sunlight. We stopped frequently to take photos, at one point climbing way out onto the rocky ledge high above the sea where I took a video in order to have the sound of gentle waves to help carry me through the winter ahead. We sat in that spot for quite awhile soaking up the peaceful, warm, private and timeless moments. Those are the experiences that we hold close in our memories after a trip.



But, I had an agenda, so back in the car and off again. Soon we came to a bridge high above a narrow cut in the shoreline. I had read about this spot and we stopped to explore for a bit. We climbed down to the water's surface and marveled at the crystal clear water. We crawled carefully along the rocks until we were on the far underside of the bridge. Below, the water begged us to jump. It was clear and we were hot and to the side there was a cave that I wanted to swim in. But we reasoned ourselves out of it. I thought of the kids and said, "they would want us to swim," but we thought of the hours ahead and the idea of being sticky and salty in the car didn't appeal. Instead I waded up to my hitched-up capris and it was lovely.



Up above we encountered a British couple. The woman had just seen a snake and was still jumping around about it. We ended up over-lapping with them throughout the day, which makes sense since we were just about the only people on the road. It is so special to see these places in the off season when there are not hundreds of people crawling over everything and many cars and busses on the roads. I was able to pull over whenever we wanted without fear of blocking traffic.



We stopped in Santa Cesarea Terme, a small town with four caves where people have relaxed and been healed in the thermal waters since 1500. It wasn't until 1700 that wealthy people started to build homes there in order to indulge in the healing waters of the mineral springs, and it is now a tourist location with the entire economy of the town based on the thermal springs. We parked next to a nice looking restaurant that was open (unusual on a Monday, and unusual in October). Although we had already enjoyed the focaccia that we bought in Salve, we decided to have lunch.



The waiter seated us at an outside table that hung above the sea. There were olive trees growing among the tables and tin lanterns were strung along through the branches. It was a beautiful spot. We ordered a seafood salad to start and although we had a disappointing version several days before, this one was delectable. The calamari and squid and shrimp were very fresh and there was nothing added but shaved carrots and olive oil and lemon juice. Next we each had risotto, mine just with parmigiana cheese and Sam had shrimp in his. After espressos we were headed north again.



It sounds like lots of driving, but the entire route is only 50 kilometers - we just stayed in third gear much of the way and stopped lots. With only a few more pull-overs we finally made it to Otranto. This town is where the drive ends and we made our way into the Centro Storico where we got caught up in a jam of moms picking up kids from school. Once through that mess we parked beside the castle that dates back to the 12th century. Otranto was originally a Greek city, later a Roman city, then Byzantines and Ottomans ruled - it has quite a history. Unfortunately Sam was done with exploring and so we made a quick walk around the castle and down to the beautiful large harbor and then pointed our car towards home. We will certainly return to Otranto on another trip.



When we got home I went out to start a load of laundry and noticed that two of the three little kittens were very still. I had Sam come check them out and he confirmed that they were no longer alive. They looked peaceful, each in a sleeping position so we have no idea what happened. The mom doesn't seem to have much milk, but they didn't look like they were starving. It is just sad to us. Sam buried them under an olive tree while the three adolescent cats looked on. In the end we trust that this is the more merciful end for the cats, but no less sad for the observers.



Today we were up early again. I called Andrew before he went to sleep (trying to make the 9 hour difference work out). We went back to Caffe Roma for a repeat of yesterday's treat. It was all as delicious as before. Next we drove to Gallipoli hoping to see a bit more of the city. We parked in the newer town and walked across the bridge to the old city in order to avoid the traffic and narrow streets. We enjoyed walking around, but we were hoping to buy some gifts and most of the stores that were open were really just tourist shops full of items made in China. I stopped at one shop where a man was weaving a basket and asked to take his photo. He said ok and then I went in to look at what he was selling. He came in and showed me a very simple woven item (kind of a star). I asked how much and he said "cinque." I figured that 5 euro was ok. I told him I needed to get money from my husband. Sam only had a 20 euro bill and when I gave it to the man he gave me 5 back. I said, "No, it was 5." He said, "No, it was 15." I stood there confused and hesitant and then he took the 5 back and gave me 10. I went with that, but within a couple minutes I was angry. He totally took advantage. We went back to the newer part of the city and found a trattoria for lunch. I had linguine with sea urchins (tasted very fishy) and Sam had fried meatballs that may have been made with octopus meat and then orecchiette pasta with tomato sauce. The waiter insisted that I cleanse my palate with a champagne flute of lemon sorbet (wonderful) and then he brought a plate of various dessert offerings. After espresso we were full and ready to move on.



We decided to scrap our plans of going further north and instead started towards home along the Ionian coastline. Not far south of Gallipoli there is a narrow stretch of fine white sand beach and the water remains shallow quite a ways out. The air was a bit cooler than it has been but we decided this was our last chance to swim so I pulled off to the side of the road where we changed into our swim suits and went down to the beach. Far away we could see a few others, but we had at least 150 yards of beach all to ourselves. The water was warm and easy to enter. It was so shallow that even 30 yards out I was kneeling on the bottom with my head above water. We bobbed around together for a bit enjoying how easy it is to float in this salty water. The sun came out of the clouds and brightened the afternoon. It was a perfect swim and we were glad that we had been spontaneous.



Back at home all the remaining cats are still alive. I used Google translate to write a message to the girl who will check us out tomorrow telling her about the kitten in the laundry room so that she will leave the window open for the mother cat to come and go. I am not at all hopeful for this last remaining kitten but I need to leave feeling like I have done all I can for each of the cats. I wish so much that we could find a home for the one we call "sweet kitty," as she is very comfortable with humans and tonight while we read on the rooftop terrace she sat underneath my chair purring. Gah!!



Tomorrow we drive to Martina Franca to visit in Catherine and Brian's home and we are looking forward to this additional time with them.

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