Breakfast odyssey in Southern Italy

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We set off on our last holiday before two becomes three late Saturday morning. Which was a nice change compared to our last trips, which required very early starts. Our destination was Southern Italy, Puglia. After a 45min delay to the flight and then another 45min delay at the other end picking up the car, due to some fussy Russians, we didn't get on the road until just after 7pm. Our short journey down the coast from Bari was fairly easy and we were soon in Polignano a Mare. This town, like most of the others we stayed at, was surprisingly pleasant. Really this was supposed to be a convenient location away from Bari before going further down the coast. It was a very pretty town perched on cliff tops, with a sweet little cove beach. The following morning we started the breakfast odyssey of multiple cakes, flans and pastries every morning. Worst place to come if you were on a diet! But utterly delicious. The highlight of the this breakfast was the fresh yogurt made by the uncle of the owner of the B&B, and the lemon cake.

Monopoli only 40mins down the coast was our location for the following two nights. After a few wrong turns and being directed in the opposite direction, due to a one way system (a reoccurring experience in this region), we arrived at our lovely hotel. It was situated on the old fortified sea wall with amazing views across the Adriatic Sea from the stylish roof top lounge. That afternoon and the following day we spent relaxing and strolling around the town (another reoccurring experience in this region). The food in the region has been fantastic as well. Lots of simple home cooked pasta and huge delicious antipasti plates. I of course have to mention the breakfast. It was in a room within the fortified wall and they had cut out a wonderful picture window so it offered a lovely view of the waves lapping on to the rocks. The highlight was the delightful lemon cream filled mini donuts.

Our next stop was a tiny town further down the coast, right on the heel of Italy's 'boot' called Vignacastrisi. The drive down was a little ho-hum with the exception of the final 20mins or so. It took lots of circling around the town to find the hotel as well. We were pondering thought of fleeing given how run down and quiet the town was. Lucky we didn't as once we located the hotel and went in it was a little oasis. It use to be the majors residence and had been lovingly restored and modernised. We spent most of the time by the pool and in the garden. The breakfast highlight was the delicate chocolate filled mini biscuits. The southern Italy folk sure do like chocolate as they also served up chocolate tart and brownies for breakfast as well.

We then started our journey back up the heel stopping in at Gallipoli and Lecce on the way. Gallipoli old town was situated on an island reached by a 20m long bridge form the main land, it was a really windy day and the waves crashed against the fortified island. Lecce had some fabulous architecture, however we couldn't get inside too many places as most of the region closes down between noon and 5pm, nice way to live. Our next stop was at a lovely hotel outside of Martina Franca in an area known for 'trullo' - the pointy topped houses. In fact we stayed in one of these so had the real deal experience. The next day was gorgeous, with a lot less wind. We spent the morning pool side before visiting Alberobello which had 1500 odd houses; a fairly touristic place but well worth the visit. The most amusing part of the day was seeing the local nutter leading a lizard around on leash. Poor wee thing. So the breakfast highlight of this stop was the amazing tarts; cream and orange, marmalade, custard.

Our final long drive was to Matera. It certainly wasn't easy driving on this holiday. The Italians seemed to love constructing the most complex of intersections in the most random places that don't need intersections. Plus because this area isn't overly touristic, you did have to weave in and out of small towns. Which of course proved tricky with the enviable one way system. Only after two or three false turns we arrived at Matera and were wowed immediately. It is a hill top town perched on top of a long gorge, carved out of the stone mountains built by sandstone. We were staying in a beautiful hotel, our room was a cave and the place provide sensational views long the town and out across the gorge. That evening we joined the locals for 'passeggiata', which is effectively an evening stroll. They all get dressed in their finest and walk a long a few streets near the main square. The following morning, after yet another amazing breakfast - strawberries and cream, lemon cream cake and apple pastry , we did a private tour of the town. It is a truly an amazing place dating back before history. The way they collected the water was ingenuous and the houses themselves large and spacious, they lived well as far as I could tell. It came to a crunch in the 1950's due to massive over population in each household, 10 people plus animals. The government relocated everyone outside of the Sassi (caves), then left the place to ruin until the 1980's. Since then they put in place some very sensible regulations and the area has rebuilt. It is about 50%!c(MISSING)omplete, and the remaining areas not restored provides some charm. It was a wonderful spot of our final few days of the holiday.
... and so now we put our travels on hold for a while to start our next big adventure - parenthood.

PHOTOS

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