Let's do the twist.

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Geo: 52.1433, -10.2687

Yay, hot water and water pressure! O, happy day!

We left the hotel at 8:20, and the hotel staff very kindly drove all our luggage down to the bus, which was about a five-minute walk away. I am once again sitting in the back half of the bus, and I need to figure out how to squidge my way closer to the front. Declan did announce on the first day that everyone should rotate their seats every day, but so far there a few people in front who just seem to be switching from one side of the bus to the other. Maybe tomorrow I'll try to get to the bus early enough that I'll have my pick of seats.

About a half hour out of Kinsale we stopped at a memorial in Beal na mBlath (there are some accents in there somewhere, but I don't know where exactly or what kind). Michael Collins was assassinated there in August of 1922 while on the way to meet with Eamon de Valera, the leader of the anti-treaty party. (The treaty being one that Collins had entered into with the English that broke Ireland in two. Collins figured it was at least a start to complete Irish independence to have an Irish Free State of 26 counties. The anti-treaty party essentially wanted all or nothing.) Michael Collins was from west Cork, and Declan is a Cork man, so he wanted us to see what is still an important site for Corkonians. There were several wreaths and bouquets of flowers at its base, as well as a cap (?) and a rosary. I really need to rent the movie “Michael Collins” when I get home.

A little while later we stopped in Kilmichael at a memorial for three members of the Irish Republican Army who were killed during an ambush of a contingent of Black-and-Tans. (There are very, very few memorials mentioning the IRA in the Republic of Ireland, and in fact this one wasn't erected until 1966, even though the occurrence was in 1920.) The IRA killed 18 of the British soldiers. In reprisal, the IRA proceeded to burn houses and shops in the area, and picked up three IRA volunteers and beat them to death. A few weeks later, the British burned the center of Cork city and two IRA men were killed in their beds. The 20th century was a bloody one for Ireland, and they were even neutral during World War II. The movie “The Wind That Shakes the Barley” is partly about the Kilmichael ambush, and that's another one I really should rent.

Stopped in the cute little town of Macroom for coffee. I soon regretted my mocha, as our continued drive took us along twisting, winding roads for about 90 minutes. Ugh! I don't ordinarily get car sick, but I think being in the back half of the bus makes the swinging motion even worse. And the caffeine didn't help. I was so glad when we finally stopped at Muckross House. We had lunch first, and it turned out even though I felt queasy, I was also hungry. A bottle of water and an egg salad sandwich made me feel a whole lot better. And the sun came out, and it was warm to boot!

Muckross House is a lovely mansion built in the 1840s. We had a guided tour with a lady who clearly likes her job. The interior isn't spectacular or anything, but they've kept all the original furnishings and paintings, including original wallpaper and draperies. So in a way, it still looks lived in. Queen Victoria and Prince Albert, four of their children, and 100 retainers visited Muckross in 1861. The Herbert family, the owners of Muckross, had known for six years about the royal visit, and they had been planning for it that entire time. The Queen et al. stayed for just a couple of days. Victoria enjoyed her stay very much, and the Herberts hoped that when she returned to England, they would receive word that she had given them titles or more land. However, a few months later, Prince Albert died, and Victoria forgot all about Ireland and the Herberts. You've got to feel just a bit sorry for them, haven't you?

We didn't get to walk around the lovely gardens that surround the house, but we did see a bride and groom having wedding photos taken, as well as a dog scampering around with his leash in his mouth.

Along the sides of the twisting, winding roads, you will occasionally see shrines to the Virgin Mary. They are usually somewhat inaccessible. But going through one town there was a pretty large one right at the sidewalk, with a long step that acted as sort of a kneeler, and there was an old man kneeling there praying. I wonder how often he goes there, and if other people stop there too.

Declan sang us a little bit of a song again, and he plays lots of Irish music on the bus while we're driving along the twisting, winding roads. From what I can tell, the women have to have voices like angels, but it doesn't much matter how the men sound, as long as they can reasonably carry a tune.

More twisting, winding roads, but gorgeous scenery. We stopped at the Killarney lakes to look at the views, and later we stopped at Inch Beach for a quick photo op. Inch Beach was used by David Lean in “Ryan's Daughter.” It looks like ... a beach, but omigosh the sea air felt so good after being on the bus!

We arrived in Dingle just after 5:00. It's a cute little town with a harbor that sits at the bottom of some twisting, winding roads. The group is split between two B&Bs. My tour literature said Alpine Guesthouse, and some of the group is staying there. I, however, am in Bamburys, which is just across the road. I have a view of a sports field. My room is small and cute, and the lady who runs it is very nice and carried my bag up the stairs, even though I protested. The only down side so far is that she has a Yankee Candle (!) burning in the lobby, and the smell is making its way up the stairs and into my room. It's cinnamon roll or something, and it's definitely gone past the “oo, what smells good?” stage to “bleccch!”

As soon as we got here, I ran down the road to the laundrette, where the guy will have everything read by tomorrow afternoon. It'll run about 12 euros, but it'll totally be worth it.

Met up with Katherine and Michelle (just as it started to rain), and we walked around the town a bit and then went to a pub called John Benny Moriarty's for dinner. I had fish and chips, a shandy, and warm apple cake for dessert. I love being able to order a shandy and not have the waitress give me the fish eye.

I am back in my room now – I think it's about 9:30, but I haven't unpacked my little clock yet – and I was hoping to be able to Skype with John, but he replied to an e-mail saying that he was waiting for a bus. :-(

P.S. Did I mention that Ireland has twisting, winding roads?

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Comments

[Yvonne]

So, what's up with the Drake that you need to beware?

[Yvonne]

WOW. Now that's a nice sized bed. Usually they are sooooo small.

[JK]

A shout out to Ryan's Daughter!

[Kate]

yea for hot water AND water pressure combined! Yes, you are right--the motion is worse at the back of the bus. Maybe you can get someone to relinquish a front seat if you tell them you'll throw up sitting in back...Glad you got a bit of s
unshine!