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Published: October 23rd 2007
Howth Castle
Prior to 'No Trespassing'This entry is somewhat overdue but anyway, here's more of the rolling hills and blue oceans.
Howth's a really beautiful town and it's just about 20 mins north of Dublin city by train. It's really a residential suburb with nothing spectacular in terms of historical monuments or edifices but the scenery is indeed breathtaking. And of course, needless to say, it's really popular with tourists (I'm still trying to decide if I am one considering. This sense of dislocation is pervasive).
Howth used to be an important shipping port for Dublin but that's past and it's now a major fishing centre and yacthing harbour, as can be seen in the pictures I managed to take. Yacthing seems to be a favourite pastime there and when you look at the pictures, you'll understand why.
There are supposedly some historical remnants according to my guide but I had extreme difficulty locating them apart from Howth Castle which incidentally is still inhabited! Imagine living in a castle in the 21st century! But of course, as you can see in the pictures, the makeovers are extensive and they've been 'modernised' in every way but the structure is as it was in 1564.
Howth Castle
Still prior to 'No Trespassing' It's actually private property and the family of Norman Noble Sir Almeric Tristram (think Tristram and Isolde) has owned it ever since he acquired it after winninng a battle.
There is supposedly a Neolithic Grave memorial known as Ideen's Grave but I couldn't quite find it. I think it's largely because they're situated inside the castle grounds and there was a huge 'No Trespassing' sign hung outside although we ventured into the castle gardens.
Howth's really a very large hill surrounded by cliffs and the peak, which took us almost 2 hours to hike up, had excellent and breathtaking views of the vast Ocean and Dublin bay. There is also an old lighthouse built in 1814 but I was a little too lazy to hike down and back up again.
It's really a getaway resort and golfing seems to be a popular sport with a huge Deer Park Golf Course that extends to grounds just beside Howth Castle.
We also made a trip to the Sunday Market and the atmosphere was enlivening. There were food stalls of all imaginable cuisines (yes, even Chinese but they sold plain Fried Noodles for 4 Euros. Ridiculous). The seafood was
Howth Castle
On castle grounds. Post-trespassing and awaiting a Pit-Bull to charge over. unquestionably fresh and, as you can see from the pictures, it's really an atmosphere that is ... quaint, relaxed, and ... comforting in some way. The experience reminded me of Graham Greene's description of Brighton in "Brighton Rock."
But of course, like Dalkey, only the rich inhabit this town with the seaside houses and premium cars. I noticed that few of the locals actually walked around town and there were Z3s, TTs, Roadsters, M3s, Volvos, zipping past every few seconds.
That's the boring stuff. Here's the interesting thing that happened along the trip which
some people might take particular interest in. Apart from knowing that there is a County called Kilkenny (Kill-Kenny, something which I've wanted to do several times), there is a residential suburb called Kilester (how apt as well... something which I've also always wanted to do) which the train passed en route to Howth. I thought little about it while heading to Howth apart from a, "oh, how 'interesting'." On the way back, the train was made to halt for an hour at Kilester and on the audio system, a faint voice informs everyone that a car had collided with the railway bridge so engineers
Howth Castle
I wonder how many cars they own. had to be called in to ensure the safety of the bridge before the train could carry on its journey. Apparently the person died in the crash. I wonder if his name is Lester... it'll be a different one nevertheless!
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