Kerry to Clare - surprise in the ride

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Before leaving Killarney in County Kerry, I stopped to visit Torc Falls, a beautiful waterfall just a short walk off the road. This is close enough to Killarney proper that it would not be unreasonable to think that Margaret Campbell, if she visited Killarney, would have taken a horse carriage (they call them jaunty carts) ride out to the falls. I am sure that she would have been as moved as I with the beauty and power of the cascading waters.

It is Sunday, so I went to Mass at Killarney Cathedral. Sitting in this majestic stone structure, it came to me that Margaret Campbell would probably have come here to pray, too. I said an extra prayer for her - and all who have come from her.

Back on the road. Getting from Killarney to Doolin in County Clare involves backtracking north before turning west. The roads felt much more familiar and less intimidating on the way back. Being Sunday, the towns were more crowded, so there was no temptation to stop and look around. Part of the route opens to divided highway - pure joy. Then the roads narrow again and run the standard range from two lane to very narrow almost two lane. I will not miss this aspect of Ireland.

Doolin is known worldwide as the center for Irish music. On the way there are no signs to indicate that you are on the way to Doolin until you get within about 20 miles of the town. There are, however, many signs to the Cliffs of Moher near Doolin, so I just followed those and figured that they would get me to the town. They did.

A note about Irish roads. I read a lot of complaints about the round abouts, which are present at most major intersections. I disagree. The round abouts eliminate the need for many traffic lights, and dramatically reduce the occasion for collisions while turning. The signage at the round abouts is very clear, and, if you do miss your turn, you can just go around about again until you hit the right exit. Wisconsin seems to be adding these on their highways. They are a very good idea. I wish that the signage in the towns was nearly as good

Doolin is a small but sprawling town with pockets of pubs / shops / lodging along a main strip. The main strip is one of those just-pass-by two lane roads with stone walls and hedges on either side. It is also the only walkway in an area where there are A LOT of hikers and bicyclists. Everyone drives pretty slowly around here.

O'Connor's Guest House is very nice. It almost has a Nordic feel to it - light wood, clean, simple decor, lots of windows. I managed to get another room with a dormer skylight window. As with the Crystal Springs in Killarney, the proprietor almost apologized for not having a proper window. For me, these are a delight. They offer complete privacy, a great sense of light, and can be left open for soft ventilation. Here, the window is angled so that, when standing, it also offers incredible views of the countryside - including glimpses of the ocean and the Cliffs of Moher.

There are several companies that offer cruise tours for a sea view of the cliffs. I managed to get on a late afternoon cruise. The boat pulled away from the dock and the fun began. If Walt Disney World offered a water ride with this degree of bounce, it would require a 3-point harness and have a big "You WILL get wet." sign. Here, we sat on benches and laughed as the sea spray engulfed us. The cliffs are majestic - the ride to and from them is just fun.

Riding the swells, I thought of Margaret Campbell's treck across the ocean. No hopping onto an airplane and arriving 7 or 8 hours later. In calm waters the boat would have had significant sway. Crossing the north Atlantic, the waters would more likely have been similar to my little cruise. She must have had compelling reasons to brave the journey.

The Cliffs of Moher from the top and a visit to the Burren tomorrow.

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