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We had an event-packed trip
to Hungary, a unique country and people.
We enjoyed figuring out
the public transportation;
becoming more efficient each day.
This trip we traveled almost entirely
by public transport -
bus, metro, tram, regional bus;
7 day pass for the entire city –
< $20 each
The Magyars,
are very pleasant and fun,
culturally and linguistically different
from other Europeans.
Freed from Soviet rule in 1989,
Hungary is successfully
pulling itself out of
decades of communist oppression.
Tourism is now the leading industry,
agriculture second
-yummy food and wine.
Monday, we took a
journey to the southwest suburbs of Buda
(the western half of Budapest)
by metro and bus,
shiny new metro line 4.
Flowering trees.
We found spring!
Maybe it will eventually
come to Belarus.
Our destination: Memento Park
a collection of socialist realistic sculptures
salvaged from the Soviet collapse
when statues were toppled.
Blocky, featureless men and women;
murals of
school boys – boy scouts in
summer indoctrination camp;
leaders idolized with fine details;
the Soviet army always
there to "help" the diligent workers.
Lunch at Café Kor
near the basilica
cabbage with venison & sour cream.
First introduction to
Eger wine – St. Andrea Aldas Egri Bikaver.
Wander Budapest streets to the Danube
tram 2 along the river
metro 2 & 3 home to our lovely flat.
Our first experience with apartment rental
through Airbnb was positive.
The flat was spacious and comfortable.
Though squeaky parquet wood floors,
encouraged passive aggressive neighbors below
to turn on tv loudly when we walk
to the bathroom at night;
comfy bed once the flowery scent
had been aired out of the bedding;
looked like a Chinese laundry for a while.
The up-and-coming neighborhood is quiet;
occasional singing in the street below.
To our delight Adrienn made
fresh baked cake and muffins!
Just around the corner to
public transportation - metro, bus and tram.
Tuesday found
us cooking
with Anita and Chef Parade.
Group tour is only us two.
Started in the Great Market Hall
tasting pickled peppers and cabbage,
pickled baby watermelon (yuck),
a freshly cooked langos,
and mangalitsa pork sausage
with coffee in a glass;
though much better
with a glass of Arany Aszok beer.
On to the cooking school
where we cooked several hours
-use sweet paprika
-don’t scorch it!
-sauté onions in plenty of oil
-remove from heat
-add paprika when bubbling stops
-hydrate with water
and then ate our
beef goulash soup,
chicken paprikas with dumplings
and Hungarian wine – of course.
We try always to visit
ethnography museums.
Interesting regional clothing,
farming methods, bee skeps,
children’s toys.
Played a card game of ulti
with the gift shop saleswoman.
Many laughs; I think she let me win;
I bought a deck covered with beautiful art.
Jewelry shopping -
cute handmade bird earrings and necklace
made us thirsty,
so we headed
to the recommended
Szimpla Garden ruin pub
-cleared out wrecked buildings,
leaving a hole in the city
filled by eclectic stuff: tents,
art from junk, mismatched chairs,
beer!
Wednesday, we head back to
Great Market Hall;
langos breakfast and
souvenir shopping:
cooking supplies – gnocci screen,
rolling pin, sweet paprika, wooden scoops,
poppy seed grinder
shirt for Kevin, retro wind-up toy for George,
Pick winter sausage
We check out Andrassy Avenue,
a grand boulevard
leading to the central park.
The oldest subway
on the European continent,
M1 runs along just underneath.
Lunch at Kadar
locals come here
for amazing Hungarian food.
fun waitress
The House of Terror
well-designed exhibits
to assault all your senses
lard cube maze, abrupt light changes,
curtained communist spy car,
pounding music coordinated
with shrinking Hungary map.
dank smelling basement
with cells, torture room & gallows.
Never. Let. History. Repeat.
Time to relax in one of Hungary’s
most spectacular
Happy Hour Budapest
Fun with Livia from Urban Adventures thermal baths.
Szechenyi Baths
beautiful to behold
a dozen pools indoor and out
different temperatures, colors, smells
ranging from 40 to 20 degrees C in a few steps.
making my skin tingle.
Serious chess played in the pool
by sunburned bathers.
Most fun in bubbling, jetting, swirling pool
much laughter by everyone.
Budapesters know how to relax in style.
We catch the M1 metro
to our Urban Adventures
Happy Hour Tour with Livia
She is holding her iPad
with UA logo at 6:30
group tour turns out to be only us two.
informative and delightful
tour of Jewish Quarter
whirlwind history of Hungary,
Jewish architecture, wines.
very professionally delivered
in Livia’s passionate style.
Passing through hidden Jewish passageways
from their efficient architectural design.
Finally, some wine
whites – our favorite from fermint grapes
– Array Angi in Tokay region.
In and out of hip, but rustic bars,
including other ruin pubs.
Fun environment,
live bands or American music.
Discuss politics: Hungary moving to the right
Langos breakfast
Like Indian fry bread with sour cream, garlic oil and cheese over a Rose fröccs
-Hungarian name for spritzer.
Finished with burning palinka (fruit brandy).
Thursday we took a 2 hour bus ride
to the countryside wine town, Eger.
Some complications with our
overnight lodging -
Note to self: Airbnb is best for longer stays.
We finally end up in the delightful
18
th century Senator Haz hotel
on the edge of Little Dobo Square.
Quick taxi to the Valley of Beautiful Women,
a small cluster of wine caves
developed to satisfy wine enthusiasts.
In the first wine cave we were invited in by
a small grandmotherly woman
who gave us the grand tour,
including the barrel room
“Touch the wall,” she said.
“Yikes!” said a surprised Kevin.
There was an inch of black mold growing everywhere.
Good for wine making.
We got a kick out of her kind mannerisms.
We bought a liter plastic bottle
filled with her Riesling - $2.
Around the corner
a horseshoe shaped street
lined with wine caves and
outdoor patio seating.
Sipping in the sunshine.
Peaceful.
Walked back to hotel
Hungarian pancake dinner
followed by a walk up the castle ramp
in the dark.
The next day we partook
of the Eger thermal baths
in a park-like setting
indoor and outdoor pools
aches pounded out by jets and waterfalls
We even joined in with
the aquatic exercise group.
Ice cream – 2 times! Yumm!
Back to Budapest
Saturday, last full day
rest and read the morning away
picnic supplies from
Great Market Hall
Head for Margret Island:
aviary, Japanese and flower gardens,
musical fountain,
picnic on the bank of the Danube.
Tram and bus to Rudas, our final
thermal bath experience
(we were squeaky clean by trip's end).
Bathing in hot water under
a 500 year old Turkish dome.
Modulating temperature pools,
steam, sauna. Lovely!
Back to the Jewish Quarter
for dinner: Italian for a change.
A visit to a wine bar featuring
120 wines made by
young
Hungarian winemakers
from the 8 or so wine regions.
Fondly reminds us of our beloved
Walla Walla valley.
One last langos.
Home to bed.
We love Hungary!
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