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Published: August 18th 2006
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Peace! now let
I don't know if was the beard or what, but it was so hot out this day, I pretty much ran through Heroes Square to the shady trees in the back ground. I rewarded myself with ice cream and a fanta. Note to self: like warm milk on a hot summer day, a beard is 'a baaaad idea.' Budapest is a very unique place. Surrounded by slovic countries, Hungary exists as a sort of cultural island in eastern europe. You immediately notice this when you arrive somewhere and they immediately announce. "See ya." At first I was at a loss. I had not done my homework before coming and did not even know one word in Hungarian. Bad tourist! Bad! I quickly learned that everyone wasn't trying to hurry me out of their country... but instead "see ya" is a friendly Hungarian 'hello' (spelled 'seeo.') Love it. I find being here is like playing Opposite Day when you were a kid. Except here it doesn't get old and annoying. And so I have to say I was rather charmed upon arriving, by the language, the beautiful architecture (it is called the Paris of the East), and quite a few beautiful ladies as well. (Although I would like to interject my curiousity as to why so many Hungarian women prefer the super short hair styles. We're talking buzzed sides and slightly longer bangs, wullets (women mullets), and other craziness that I thought ended with the fall of communism.) I am also glad to say that my skill at pronouncing 3-5
Magyar leaders
Okay, I did stop for this picture at hero park. I later learned that these fellas are among the 8 leaders of respective tribes that formed to become the Magyar people (current Hungarians.) I just thought the horns on the horses head were cool.These guys must have been rockstars back in the day. Too hot, off for ice cream! constanants in a row is improving greatly. Vowels are so overrated by us english speakers!
It was a happy change coming from Fes, Morocco to Budapest. Budapest is a cosmopolitan party city, big time! And it's quite a large city so I only had a taste of it. I immediately indulged my reckless side and started drinking with some Brits and Aussies upon arrival at the hostel. We hit up a great bar on the Buda side of the river just across from the Erszebet bridge in the south. It was an outdoor venue with live DJ who spun a very strange mix of todays hits and what I would describe as questionable hits of the 70s and 80s. And then among all the dance songs you would get a Rage Against The Machine song thrown in. And man they LOVED it! They loved it like they were hearing it for the first time. And while I was a little thrown off by the rather abrupt DJing, I soon learned to appreciate Budapestians embrace for the recycled hits of the past. In fact, their love of recently outdated culture was apparent in more than their love of music. I already
Szt Istvan Bazilka
It's not that yellow in real life but the square's lighting has that effect. I guess I should've used the Halogen filter. Oh well, it looks MOODY like this. mentioned the haircuts, but to match that, the fanny pack (or bum bag for those with English sensibilities) was out in force. It sort of worked when pulled off by the younger girls, but the guys I dare say did not pull it off convincingly. *Business idea*: Scour the US country side for vintage fanny packs, buy them up, then move to Budapest for a summer and begin the upscale vintage fanny pack market. Why not? You or someone you know has probably paid over $80 for a vintage t-shirt, why not a fanny pack? You could mark it up 10-15 times cost. And while I joke about what I thought was their slightly outdated style, I have started to think...perhaps they are actually ahead of the curve and soon people in NY will be sporting Louis Vuitton and Chanel fanny packs. Highly likely I'd say.
On my 3rd day in Budapest I went to Lake Balatone with an Aussie from Adelaide named Georgi. Lake Balatone was 3 hours west of Budapest by train and is a very popular vacation spot. She had heard about a music festival happening and so I left with no idea what to expect.
square of Szt. Istvan Bazilka
I should have gone in here but I didn't. I wasn't feeling cool enough at the time. But I dug the design. It turned out to be a fantastic night out. The festival was called EFFOT and apparently was for university kids, or put on by university kids, or something do with university kids. We made our way in after 10 pm when it was already dark. Georgi was recruited upon entrance to hand out programs to people which she enthusiastically embraced for about 10 handouts before abandoning the stack at the bar. The line up read like this: 8pm-Sting, 10pm-Red Hot Chilli Peppers, etc. WHAT! no way. They're here in middle of Hungary? Sweet! Welllll, not so sweet as it turned out to be tribute bands, which, may have only learned their songs the night before. They certainly weren't the best but it didn't matter as everyone was singing along and partying just as hard as if they were the real deal. Georgi and I became quite the source of entertainment to many Hungarians as they wondered how we possibly could have known about EFFOT and what we thought of it. "It rocks!" I told them, and meant it. The evening rocked on until about 5 am when we finally crashed on some chaise lounges on the lakeside. We woke up
Zsechenyi
This was one of the many adornments atop the Zsechenyi bath house in the central park area. It's such a cheap way to spend a relaxing day. AND, if you are there for less than 2 hours they actually refund you some money. What?! I'm definitely not in America anymore. a few hours later to a beautiful sunrise that was postcard perfect. (picture to be posted later. It has to be rescued from a broken camera.) There were still a hardy lot of people partying away and swimming in the lake. Actually, the lake is so shallow you could very well walk across the entre width without ever getting your hair wet. But it was very picturesque to see people a hundred feet from the shore, jumping around in the water, backlit by the rising sun turning them into perfectly anonymous subjects for my postcard.
Overall I spent about 7 days in Budapest. There was SO much to see but I didn't feel like running around in tourist mode. I spent a lot of time just strolling the streets, riding a rented bike, or lounging around in cafes. I spent a few more nights partying at Zold Pardon, another outdoor music venue on the river in Buda side. I found a couple cool "garden" bars where people took over (at the time) abandoned buildings with interior courtyards. I seem to be fascinated with the creative reuse in every city I go to. I bet I would have loved downtown
Where's Christina, Pink, Maya, and Queen?
Well, it is called the Paris of the east. But come on, really, it's a franchise now? New York in the 70s and 80s! I visited the Zsechenyi baths and soaked in mineral water and cooled off in the pool. (But mostly I just napped on the stone tiles surrounding the pool.) I walked through the old town and saw the castle. I missed the communist statue park outside of town but heard good things. I didn't make it to the Gellert baths though I had every intention to do so. And that's about how things went in Budapest for me. I did some of this, and didn't do some of that, and just enjoyed the pace of the city.
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Mom
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Keep it comin'!
Pete, I'm lovin' the pics!