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Published: April 22nd 2006
A quick bit of shopping in the morning to complete our list of Hungarian essentials, before we braved the haphazard road system with Marti heading to Viségrad for the afternoon.
Following public pressure (not coincidentally there’s a general election this year - hmmmm), the Hungarian government has recently begun a massive project to upgrade the roads in Budapest that have been neglected for the best part of 20 years. Out go the broken sunken cobble stones - romantic as they are, they are not built for the millions of cars that fly through Budapest everyday - and in comes the tarseal. In theory a great plan, but around every corner you will find road works and a traffic jam, especially on the weekend. It would be the same in any major city around the world (except not every road would be in need of an upgrade), but at least the metros, trams and busses still fly along, so don’t let that put you coming off here.
Despite the inner city roadworks, you don’t have to head far before you hit the ‘country roads’, tar sealed some years ago, but badly affected by floods twice a year and wintery ice
which takes big chunks out the road when it thaws.
The recent floods here are still all too apparent as the roads from just before Szentendre are still lined with sandbags - in some places 4 ft high or more - and lakes still exist where only a few weeks ago there were fields of crops.
The drive to Viségrad is only 40km, but takes about an hour as it is littered with small towns and villages where the speed limits are more or less adhered to (apart from the odd dickhead), so there is little chance to get over 80 Km/hr…much to the disdain of Marti and her rally driving tendencies (a necessary Hungarian skill in the city). This is not such a bad thing as it gives you a chance to appreciate the difference between inner city Budapest and the rural lifestyle. Admittedly this is not the true Hungarian country side - you have to go a bit further for this kind of experience - but the contrasts are still apparent.
Viségrad the town is home to Viségrad Castle, a 900 year old stronghold of the Hungarian empire, situated on a cliff top overlooking a large
bend in the Danube. Given its location there was little chance that any invading forces would make it to Budapest, which is why this town is so important in Hungarian history. A couple of large hotels which take advantage of the thermal springs in the area don’t detract too much from the unspoilt natural setting here.
The castle itself is a partial ruin which is being restored to its former glory, although it is interesting enough in its own right today. It takes about an hour to wander through in its current state, but if you can, take a Hungarian translator to explain the historical significance of the various displays and the fine subtleties between folk, fork and f*ck. It’s a very peaceful place when there’s not too many other tourists or school groups around, but even then because people get through it fairly quickly you can sit and relax in almost any of the 'rooms' of the castle or the outdoor areas and enjoy the serenity…ahhhhh, the serenity.
We managed to resist the temptation to purchase some the nasty looking period weaponry for sale outside, or chance our hand at archery and falconry, but we did grab a
few souvenirs, novelties and party tricks.
A couple of kms up the road (well past the luge ride) is a restaurant called Nagy-somethingorother. Old style Hungarian building and a great feed. Three of us grazed through large meals, beer, coffee, dessert, and sparkling mineral water for NZ$45.
A thoroughly good day, and one that Kaspar seemed to enjoy too, if the amount of dribble (or “nyal” as it is much more appropriately called in Hungarian) is anything to go by.
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Selina
non-member comment
Amazing country!
Hi Guys, just checking in and catching up on your adventures over the past week.... and wow! I see you're enjoying a far more cultured holiday than mine - where the hardest decision I make all day is whether to swim in the pool or walk 50 metres and swim in the sea :) I'm glad to hear that all is well with you guys and you're enjoying the time with your extended whanau. With Gabor's attention to detail - I feel like I could finally pass School C History (at least any questions to do with Hungary). Take care and I look forward to more chapters in the holiday blog....