The ugly past...through my trip home


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April 19th 2007
Published: April 19th 2007
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Walk to Dohany
On Weds I decided to go to the Jewish Ghetto. What I saw and heard about there are things I think you should experience for yourself, not through any interpretation so my descriptions will be brief.
My first waderings took me to the "Jewish Quarter" to experience the Jewish synagog on Dohany street. It has been repaired to it's glory subsequent to the bomb damage sustained during the Holocaust. If a trip to this site is on your agenda, pay for the tour. The information you will glean from your guide is priceless and imperative to understanding the significance of this place. The synagog was on the edge of the Jewish ghetto (alluded to by a section of wall erected where the original wall enclosed the section.) This site also contains a mass grave of victims (approximately 3,000 people.) What surprised me was the size of this part. It is an unbelievably small area of the grounds. Beyond this, there is a garden area with several sculptures honoring both vicitms and heroes of the war, both military and civilian. The museum is well worth a look-see. There are several levels of religious artifacts and an art exhibit on the top
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Great Synagog
level.
Wandering around the section of the city outside of the synagog, you will come upon occassional tributes aimed at remembering the holocaust. I stopped at a grocery and picked up a roll and some cheese for lunch. As I was sitting outside on a curb noshing, the sky darkend and the temperature dropped. I packed up and scurried back toward my hotel, but the rain began pouring down within blocks and I was soaked to the skin by the time I hit the lobby.
A change of clothes and dry hair later, I left again, this time with my umbrella (although it turned out that that was unneccesary.) My tour guide at the synagog said that this past winter was extremely dry, spring was weeks ahead of time, and they were expecting a drought this summer. If this is the kind of rain they are going to have this spring they Hungary will be hurting when it REALLY gets warm. I decided to go to return to Andrassy Street with the intent to see the House of Terror and walk to the Szechenyi Baths. For info on the House of Terror see Rick Steves website. He does it more
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Inside synagog
justince than would I. http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/east/terror.htm
As for the baths, I actually preferred Szechenyi to the Gellert Baths, although they are both worth going to. There were less tourists and the prices were better. I could've gotten a foot massage for 1,000HUF ($5) only I didn't notice it until I was leaving (all baths are a pay-before-you-enter deal so you tell the attendant taking the $ everything you want before you go in.)
Fred and Jonathan got in laaaate from work so dinner was at the hotel and then straight off to bed.
Thursday was spent revisiting the Central Market and other places at which I had spotted the 'perfect gift' for someone. Lunch at the Central Market was delicious...I had Lyugos (sp?) There were about 15 different types but I had the one that looked like pizza dough with sour cream and white cheese on top (#5.) It was delicious! Hours of bargain shopping later and loaded down with trinkets, traditional crafts, and paprika I rested back at the hotel until the guys returned...earlier than usual since it was my last night...and we headed out for dinner at Taj Mahal again. I had the vindaloo and boy, was it delicious...hot,
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Mass Grave
but delicious!
If you ever get the chance to go, do it. You will not regret it.


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Szechenyi Baths


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