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Published: April 4th 2007
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Hello in Hungarian (we didn’t learn how to say it)
We’ve returned from behind the iron curtain. Well its no longer soviet but
had a distinct air of post communism. Derelict buildings, graffiti, serious
people and some signs of recent foreign investment in new renovation work.
Its still a few years behind Prague.
Our trip started early, as usual, getting on the easybus to Luton airport.
Surprisingly smooth transit out to the middle of nowhere airport. It made a
change to be early for the flight and not spend hours in security. Although
we must commend Luton for their original security procedures. Cathy with
shoes and coat off stood in the booth with feet on the footprints and hands
above head and after being humiliated was finally scanned when they could be
bothered, apparently with radio waves. Now she knows how criminals feel.
We boarded our Wizz Air flight, a purple plane, and surprisingly comfortable
since we had emergency aisle seats. Not bad for a budget airline and at
least it was on time unlike some later mentioned airlines. Two and a half
hours later we were descending into Budapest and flying over rows of
Communist looking
flats.
A minibus took us into town which was looking rather grey, rainy and
derelict for a Saturday. Our hotel was top notch. The Corinthia Grand Royal
Hotel. With so many fancy titles in its name it had to be. Five star all the
way on this trip making use of the exchange rate - 363 florint to the pound.
Marble foyer, concierge, spa facilities…
Our room was nice and new and big marble bathroom. The tv screen welcomed
Mrs Ellis and Nick was from then on known as Mr Ellis. Nick got acquainted
with the concierge several times requesting bath robe, toothbrush for Cathy
(who forgot hers), wake up calls.
Before even unpacking we had bathrobes on and were headed to the spa. Guests
got to use the ‘wellness centre’ for free so we swam, had a sauna, steam
room, Jacuzzi, tropical rain shower. Formalities out the way we could
venture out into the rainy grey day. In hind sight it would have been time
better spent in the spa as Hungarians do not like rain and the town was
deserted. We ended up cold, wet and searching for a place for dinner. Down a
back alley we found a authentic local restaurant with us the only patrons.
For less than a fiver we could get whatever we wanted basically. So goulash
soup followed by veal goulash and spatzle, venison for Nick. Hungarian is
basically meat and more meat, paprika this and that, goose liver, duck,
cherries, plums, pancakes. After each course our serious waiter would ask
‘is good?’ Our reply yes its good.
Luckily the next day the weather changed for the better and the Hungarians
came out. Our hotel had one of the best breakfast buffets. Smoked salmon,
champagne, fruits, chef to cook your eggs, hot foods, cold foods including
salami, it went on and on.
After brekkie we went walking to the castle district where the castle sits
on a hill surrounded by walls and nice tiled churches. Views of the not so
blue Danube were good and the parliament. We braved the labyrinth of tunnels
under the castle which was one of the more bizarre things we’ve done.
Scarier than the catacombs in Paris and it was minus the bones! Basically
they were just tunnels used by the Communists etc.. and to make it more
interesting the Hungarians
have put in there own sound effects, cave art,
statues, candles, fake modern fossils, wacky and creepy. A room was
completely dark and we had to follow a hand rail through it. A bunch of
school kids came through and we couldn’t resist to make some scary noises on
our way out.
On our way back to the hotel we found a local fair and enjoyed some
traditional folk dancing and singing and traditional foods and crafts.
In the morning we again enjoyed the breakfast buffet and the spa facilities.
After checking out we wandered the town to the markets where there was every
kind of meat on offer as well as goose liver and tripe and salamis. The
backpack was stuffed with half a kilo of Hungarian biscuits, a stick of
salami, bottles of wine. We visited a local wine shop and met a very nice
man who took interest in my mother being of Hungarian descent. He let us try
Tokaj wine, very nice and showed us a cookbook. With things being so cheap
it was hard not to ship a crate full back home.
Unfortunately we braved the metro only to get stopped by the transit cops.
Our tickets from earlier that day were no longer valid and playing the
stupid tourist didn’t cut it with them. Nick’s protesting only prompted them
asking for passports so Cathy quickly handed over the 5000 florint fine
(about 14 quid). Oh well better than a night in a Budapest slammer.
Our last afternoon we found the fair again so indulged again in some fine
Hungarian food and then café hopped our way back to the hotel. No more cake.
Feeling about a kilo heavier we boarded the BA flight back to London which
was of course delayed. On landing in London we also got held on the plane 20
minutes. Ah BA.
All in all it was a good weekend getaway and pretty easy on the wallet.
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Peppe
non-member comment
If being Prague is being a playing ground for tourists I wish Budapest would never make up for the "lag"...