Thebes: the Tragic Kingdom


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July 3rd 2007
Published: July 3rd 2007
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Athens to Thebes

7-03-07 Took the train to Thebes


Athens to Thebes THIVA, 1:27am local time-
I arrived in Athens last night and met Pro’s sister Denise. She’s really a lovely girl, and so sweet and helpful. I brought her a t-shirt that says “New York” on it, just as a token. I know a t-shirt sounds incredibly lame, but what do you get for someone you’ve never met before whose home you’re going to be staying in? Hopefully something a little more original will present itself before the end of my stay.
We walked around in Athens last night. Her neighborhood is far from the center of town where the Acropolis and museums are, but with the bus and the Metro I can go anywhere I need to. Her neighborhood is very quiet at night. As I walked up the narrow street, lined with apartment buildings on either side, the silence was overwhelming, like being in church. Neither Denise nor I dared speak above a whisper.
I passed the night in Denise’s apartment. Early this morning, with her guidance, I boarded the bus to the Metro stop, where I rode the subway to Larissa Station, where I boarded a train to Thebes.
The train ride was fun. I don’t often get to ride on overland trains, and the landscape I got to view on the way was quite exceptional. Of course I spent most of my time talking to Georgia, an Athenian on her way to Thessaloniki to see her boyfriend. She was very nice and told me all about her education and upbringing in Athens and wanted to hear all about Manhattan. We exchanged numbers so when I get back to Athens we’ll meet up some night.
So now, finally I’m in Thebes. While I’m here, I want to visit some nearby sites including Gla, Orchomenos and Delphi, as well as visiting the local museum. Today I didn’t really get much done, I just spent most of the day walking around the town and taking some photos.
Thebes is really a gorgeous town. It’s situated right on Kadmeia hill and is surrounded on all sides by breathtaking mountains. When you stand on top of the hill and look off at the mountains in the distance, it’s easy to understand how the ancients believed that their gods lived there. They are distant and sort of aloof, and yet so imposing. Anyway so much for that bit of personification.
As I was walking around in Thebes, I happened upon numerous archaeological sites. None of them were underway, they were just left open for all to see, and for goofy tourists like myself to ogle and photograph copiously, which I did. One woman passing by said she believed the ruins were Byzantine. I think there may be some lower in the pit that may be older, thought I won’t say how old.
I think it’s very interesting how the people of Thebes have embraced their often tragic mythological traditions. This is the city of Cadmus, of Oedipus and of Niobe, a woman whose fourteen children were slain by Apollo and his sister Artemis when Niobe slurred their mother Leto. Interestingly enough, the hotel where I’m staying is named after her. Everywhere you go, the streets are named after Oedipus, Antigone, Cadmus, Jocasta and numerous other mythological figures.
The townspeople are very friendly. The area that I’m in is quite lively. The street is for pedestrians and motorcyclists only. The entire street is lined with outdoor cafes, where old men sit sipping frappes and talking boisterously about who knows what. Probably politics, a favorite topic among Greeks I’ve found. Today around 1, the street was crowded and lively, but everything died down after a couple of hours. Around 10pm though, things were back in full swing and still are even after 1am.
Below are some pictures I took today in Thebes. Enjoy!
That’s all for now, more to follow soon.



Additional photos below
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ceramic pipeceramic pipe
ceramic pipe

Wish I knew how old this pipe was. The same kind of pipe was present at the next excavation pit I happened upon.


4th July 2007

Yayyyy
Libba, I am so excited for you and I cannot tell you how excited I am that you are doing this blog. It will be almost like being there with you on your Greek adventure. I am happy you are meeting nice people. Have fun,be safe. Love, Aunt Robyn... great pictures!
4th July 2007

Cool stuff
Cool stuff there, Lib. I'm having this great vision of you hopping over the little walls at the ruines trying to get a better glympse of stuff as I have done in other countries outside of Greece..you should bring us back some little chunks of stone - and in the meantime take a few pictures of the Greek that you find on some of these monuments for me, please! In the meantime, looks like you're having fun! Be safe, as always. :)
4th July 2007

Libba, amazing! T-shirt idea is actually pretty funny if you ask me! Your pictures and descriptions are great. Are you guys all speaking in Greek or English or both??
4th July 2007

Libba-on-Thebes action.
In honor of your travels, I will eat nothing but red onions, feta, basil, and lemon all month. Come to think of it, how IS the food there? Is it awesome or awful? But the most important question remains: why did the Greeks name their Tragic Kindgom of Thebes after a No Doubt album? In all seriousness, how did you manage to meet up with any of Pro's fam? I thought you weren't on speaking terms with any of them. Why aren't any of the sites active, especially during the summer? And keep up the excellent work on the Travelbloggensteinowitzenberger. I'm especially keen to see your photos and impressions of Gla.
4th July 2007

it all sounds so wonderful.... i can't wait to see and hear more!

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