Just a quick update...

---

I'm typing this in the HI hostel in Athens. It's a free internet cafe but being in a HI hostel it's very busy, there's not a queue again yet but I'm sure there will be! Since I last updated...

...we went to Lubeck, in which we climbed St. Peter's cathedral (well actually it was a lift) and looked out, I caught up with some family history by walking down the street that my German nan, Ingeborg, lived on as a child and during the Second World War (where she met my grandad), we drank marzipan hot chocolate in the world famous Cafe Niederegger (honestly the whole shop is a cross between Hansel and Gretel and Willy Wonka, if you like marzipan it's MARVELLOUS)and then had to share a sleeper train with irritating footie louts from Switzerland (they were so obnoxious even Owen ended up getting irritated and asking them to shut up).

...we passed through the Alps and the scenery was absolutely, indescribably incredible. Snow capped mountains, mountain streams with the clearest purest water you ever saw, waterfalls, endless forests...

...we changed at Milan to head on to Rome. Rome is very beautiful, but full of rip-offs waiting to take you for a ride. We ate pizza, pasta and drank a litre of red wine for 7 euros, at the most lovely restaurant (Sette Oche), saw the Colloseum, the Forum and Palatine Hill, numerous piazza's and fountains (including the Fontana di Trevi), stayed at HOTEL FAWLTY TOWERS (our fault for getting in late, and I totally kid you not, apart from Manuel and Basil, it really was), changed accomodation to the beautiful House of Alessia (run by a Roman lady very proud of her business). We went to the Vatican, saw the Swiss guard, went into Papal Basilica of St Peter (not at all spiritual feeling, just a sense of political power), the Vatican Museum, saw the Sistine Chapel (Michelangelo's brilliance was in perspective, honestly I thought the curtains were real when I came in, and that there were people leaning out of the walls), experienced the joy of the draconian Vatican security guards. Asking for silence and serenity I was happy with, but pretending not to speak English to be unhelpful is just irritating, and shouting at women for being under-dressed (wearing eg perfectly decent vest top - this wasn't me being shouted at, I hasten to add) doesn't make sense in the Sistine Chapel, where hundreds of naked or scantily clad forms writhe aroundin glorious pinkness all over the walls. The Mediterranean always smells wonderful, with warm air scented with the perfume of flowers, open air stalls, pizza and wine...

...went on to Umbria region as recommended by random Italian/Swiss man (one parent of either nationality). Peruglia a bit unpleasant, Owen liked cute minimetro, I hated street gangs and sense of being surrounded by Mafia. Italian people seem less friendly than in people in other places we have been. Went to Monte Cucco park (famous as hermit retreat area) for walk, scenery fantastic but not much walking because we got off at Fossato di Vico station instead of getting Gubbo bus and we really needed a car from that point on. Got caught in torrential rain and ended up dodging traffic for our lives. Accidently bought lamb chops with meal at youth hostel. Please someone assure me it is perfectly sane to hide said lamb chops in bag to sneak out of establishment, out of embarrassment and to avoid Owen's untimely death by enraged Italian chef. 😊 Went to Assisi. St Frances of Assisi had some very wonderful philosophy and Assisi is possibly the most beautiful place on earth. Got train too late to get ferry from Ancona to Patras, slept rough at ferry terminal for first time ever, kept watch during night for first time ever. Exhausted, 4 hrs sleep, keeping watch manages to combine boredom and fear in unpleasant concoction. Got on ferry, ferry brilliant, had swimming pool and helipad 😊

...arrived in Patras, got Greek train, no air conditioning plus extreme heat led to near passing out from lack of oxygen. Greece is beautiful country. Got to Athens, went to HI hostel. Am suffering slight overdose of beautiful, fit, tanned, Hollywood-perfect Americans everywhere, complete with nasal accents and overconfidence. Owen sketched bits of Athens. Ate meal with Acropolis in view & Greek music and dancing. All was well until we refused meat dolmades, we became new attraction as waiters came to gawp at the rare creature, the 'vegetarian'. Seemed a bit offended (which was unfair because I specifically said to the tout we were vegetarian outside to avoid this sort of trouble and specifically asked about the stuffed vine leaves because I know they are often stuffed with rice and lamb, he said they were vegetarian. The new ones we were brought out I bet were shop bought tinned things such as we bought to eat on the train earlier for 1 euro.) First ever time of complaining at restaurant. Also, Greek people are very touchy feely and Italian men are happy to wolf whistle and comment on breasts, none of it seemed like hassle though - just different customs (seeing as the Italians were hanging out by the swimming pool eyeing up and catcalling at all females in sight under thirty).

---