19th Stop - Lyon

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Arles - Avignon - Lyon (Train)

8-10 September

The centre of Lyon city lies in strip of land between the Saône and the Rhône Rivers. Our accommodation is near the train station, some way over to the east of the Rhône. It is a long walk before we cross the river and walk down the long pedestrian street to the largest public square in France. We wander over the Saône to the medieval town Vieux Lyon (Old Lyon) on the right bank. From the congested arts markets in its narrow streets, we climb the staircases to Fourvière hill - the site of the Notre-Dame de Fourvière basilica. We have a panoramic view over all of Lyon as we rest at the top.

Our effort was rewarded with a large glass of Leffe Blonde on our return to the city between the rivers. We then wandered once more into Old Lyon to choose from the multitude of bouchon bistros before deciding on a table outside a small place in Mercière Street, full with native French speakers and no English translations on the menu. Lyon is reputedly one of the best gastro-cities in France and the specialty cuisine of the region is a highlight in Provence. Although, bouchons were traditionally established to serve the working class in old Lyon and so authentic bouchons have a propensity to use offal or marrow from pig, chicken and cow.

The many bouchons compete for both the tourist market and discerning locals and this keeps the prices of their 3-course menus reasonably priced at around 20 euros. Leanne recommended I try the salade d’Lyonaise (lettuce with cubes of speck ham, croutons, poached egg with runny yolk and cheese) and quenelle (baked fish soufflé served in a cheesy sauce). The flavours were fresh and fittingly washed down with glasses of the wine from the Cote d’ Rhône region. As we soak up the ambience of our outdoor table in the old city at dusk, a ballerina accompanied by a violinist gracefully performs along the lane outside - busking for the spare euros from the diners.

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Photos

The Basilica Notre-Dame de Fourvière
Overlooks the city of Lyon