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Published: September 2nd 2006
St. Chely de Aubrac
The church was also used as a watchtower. Apparently the English hoards would come to pillage. A little bit like todays football matches really.Greetings all from the historic village of Conque,
Where the hell is that? You may ask. Why in southern France of course, not so sure myself. Anyway this place is great and Ive decided to stay here the night to use the facilities, they have English newspapers and internet, my right leg is playing up a bit and I think a couple of days easy walking will do it the trick.
So a lot has happened. Although I said I wouldnt compare the Chemin, camino in the French tongue, to the one in Spain I cant help but think about it alot. Perhaps it was because I walked with and made so many great friends in SPain that I feel the pilgrims here are no way near as friendly and as wonderful. I would even go so far as to say that Im a tad lonely from time to time. Thankfully I took those French lessons in Paris or I would have zero comunication with others. Despite my efforts to be friendly and engage in conversation I find most people shy away a tad and even go out of there way to avoid me. I would put that down
Aubrac - Massive Central
Right in the middle of the MAssive central mountain range. The town of Aubrac appears out of nothing as you come over a mountain. The town itself is tiny but serves the finest berry tart in the world. to me smelling bad but since we all walk the same sweaty distance we should just about smell the same as each other. No, I feel perhaps my open pilgrim personality, Ive just finished the last Camino remember, and the fact that many people are only walking a few days means they tend to be more guarded and perhaps a bit judgemental. I friend would certainly be welcome to walk with from time to time. Im sure one will pop up eventually.
The local people down here though have been fantastic. Everyone says hello, they are patient with my French; again thank god I took the course in Paris; and they seem truelly surprised and interested that I am English. Perhaps its the friendliness that comes with living in such an isolated sparcely populated part of the country. Plus what a country it is. The landscape here is unbelievably beautiful. Rolling hills of forests interspersed with green fields where farmyard animals grave. Yesterday I didnt see another pilgrim all day as I made my way up hill from Estraing looking back with the sun overhead as it burned its way through the morning mist left behind in the valley
A common morning
Many a mornings like this. Fantastic for the views. However, one must climb the hill to get such views. below. Awe inspiring to say the least. I even came across an old French man, complete with blue beret, walking stick and baguette stuffed under one arm. You cant get more French than that really.
The food has also been out of this world. The cheese is magnificent and in Aubrac the other day I stopped for coffee and noticed a berry tart on my way into the cafe. Out of this world I tell you. I then had a chesnut one during my late morning coffee break yesterday. Also the other night for dinner I tried Aligot. A dish of cheese and potatoes mashed together into a sticky paste accompanied by sausages and washed down with a Rose wine. Oh the life. Makes me hungry just thinking about it. So my friends Im off to the bakery for a little something before dinner. Will be arriving in Figearec in two days. If by chance this finds you with a few days spare and a desire for a walk then let me know. Like I said the only thing that would make this perfect is a fellow pilgrim to chat to on the my way to the Pyranees.
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