Avignon

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A couple baguettes and a high speed train through the French countryside and we arrive in Avignon ready to tackle the seat of Provence. Our home for four days is a quaint, relaxed little hotel in the city center run by owners Paschal and the ever-energetic, bubbly and knowledgeable Sylvie. Shortly after settling into our chambre, the hospitable Sylvie introduced us to the many wonders of Avignon, and how to approach the city through the back door. While Paris was more of a blitz of monuments, avenues and world-famous structures, Avignon is more a stroll where one can enjoy the antiquities of the middle ages and the subtleties of French culture.

The city once was the seat of the Avignon papacy and hotly contested antipopes. The remnants of the papal palace still remain, but as a shell (literally) of its former glory. A quick foot tour allowed us to familiarize ourselves with the city and sample the local cuisine. Our dinner on that first night came recommended by Sylvie, and proved to be a favorite spot for locals which is abundant in flavor but light in price.

Thursday morning found us meandering through the market of a neighboring village, where we attempted to navigate Mike’s more-than-basic French and buy some local cheeses and sausage. After a casual hike up to a French castle, we returned to the city to - as Napoleon might have said - divide and conquer the final tasks of purchasing the wine and bread needed for our picnic. We then enjoyed the fruits of our labor: a table spread with fresh baguettes, spicy sausage, fancy wine and exotic cheeses. Having recovered slightly, we ventured to the Palace of the Popes for a tour of the former residences of the Avignon papacy.

While it feels like we have accomplished a lot in a short amount of time, the actual pace leaves one feeling relaxed and rejuvenated - a refreshing break from the day-to-day grind.

We should prepare for dinner, which may or may not consume three hours. Tomorrow, Nice and Monaco.

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