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We did make it to the Eiffel Tower yesterday, but didn't go up due to the crowds and Metro problems. We headed back this morning and decided we might as well take the stairs to the second level platform (700+ stairs - every tenth step is marked) and then took the elevator to the summit from there. Cathleen had her doubts about how smart it would be to take the stairs, but Dan's guilt over his morning chocolate crepe made him do it, and being the dutiful wife that Cathleen is, she didn't want to leave him alone in a foreign land. It really wasn't that bad, especially after the steep cobblestoned streets yesterday, and really beat being in a stuffy elevator marked with warning signs about pickpockets (in 3 languages, no less), crammed like sardines. But as you'd expect, the Eiffel Tower is worth any discomfort it might require. It was a really clear day, so we could see just about anything we cared to look at. It really is a marvel in engineering, and Mike C. would especially appreciate that. We took many, many photos and have posted a selection of these here.
This afternoon, though, I think
Eiffel Tower Pillar
Looking at one of the Eiffel Tower's pillarswe were all photo-ed out, and we didn't take a single one. We decided to get to know our neighborhood a little better and did some window shopping on our walk to the two most prominent churches in the area (as you may know, Paris is a city of churches - well over 125
Catholic churches - this is not counting any other Christian churches, not to mention synagogues, mosques, etc. in about 40 square miles!). We first visited St. Germain-des-Pres, for which our neighborhood was named. This is considered one of the oldest churches in Paris, although most of it was destroyed during the Revolution when it was used as an armory and the ammunition exploded. It was rebuilt, of course, and the interior is very different from Notre Dame or Sacre Coeur in that it is painted - the ceiling is blue with stars, the columns are red and green with fleur-de-lis and other symbols. There are also huge paintings inside by Delacroix who lived in this neighborhood. It does seem to be in need of renovations, especially the interior. St. Sulpice is the other church we visited, made famous by the Da Vinci Code. We
Looking out on the Champs de Mars
From the stairway on the Eiffel Tower, looking through the ironwork toward the Champs de Mars (Fields of Mars) so named because the students at the military school at the far end used to practice marching there. (No jokes please about the French military....) saw the famous Rose Line and obelisk, which the church claims has no connection to the Meridien line -- and later we found one of the Meridien markers in the neighborhood (you've
got to read the Da Vinci Code if you don't know what I'm talking about...). This is a pretty church, even though most of the facade was covered in scaffolding. Again, it's different architechturally from the others, and has some beautiful ironwork inside.
But the surprise of the day was in the Place St. Sulpice where an antique fair was going on. It was fun to poke around the stalls and see what people were selling, but the prices were pretty exhorbitant. Dan even came across a stall full of antique tools which were good quality, but again too much to lure the money out of his pocket. Dealers did seem willing to negotiate price, but even that didn't sweeten the deal enough. Cathleen isn't completely sure of French haggling protocol but will give it the ol' college try.
It's 10 pm on Friday night and the neighborhood has really come alive. There is a brass band (8 piece?) with drums playing out the
Under the first platform
Again, from the stairway, looking horizontally underneath the first level platform. windows from an apartment on our side of the street and the people at the cafe below are really getting into the groove. They're pretty good; their playlist is quite eclectic: 'Tequila' famous from Pee Wee Herman, the James Bond theme, 'Puttin' on the Ritz,' something by Mozart that we couldn't name, and the theme from American Bandstand. The locals are getting rowdy and it will be interesting to see how late this continues.... especially since we're hoping to head out early tomorrow to the flea markets. Au revoir!
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