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Published: July 10th 2008
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Montmartre has a fascinating history, ranging from beheadings to basilicas to cabarets to world-renowned art. With its formidable white dome, towering over everything, the Sacre Coeur Basilica sits at the highest point of Paris on the Montmartre knoll. We took the funicular up, using our Paris Visite card and were awestruck with the Sacre Coeur and its wide stairs and dramatic terrace, from which we saw a beautiful sweeping view of Paris. We did not go inside the church, instead sat in the beautiful terrace gardens, simply enjoying everything around us, before exploring the winding, village-like streets of Montmartre.
Montmartre is the best known area where artists gather. Significant artists who lived and worked in the area include Picasso, Van Gogh, Monet and Renoir. We skipped the funicular and walked down the steep hill past the Africans selling fake designer bags to tourists. We took our time, as we strolled down the Blvd. de Clichy and Blvd. de Rochechouart, packed with interesting boutiques and numerous French brasseries and patisseries. We bought luscious looking truffles at a patisserie and sat outside savoring the delicious chocolates and enjoying the sights and sounds of the neighborhood.
Since Montmartre was outside the city
limits, free of Paris taxes and also due to the fact that the local nuns made wine, the hill quickly became a popular drinking and entertainment area, since the 19th century. One of the most famous cabaret theatres in Paris, the Moulin Rouge, is located in Montmartre. Moulin Rouge dancers are famous for the can-can, a world-renowned dance known for high-kicking, that originated at Moulin Rouge. But we were there at mid day and so, no cabaret!!!
I was captivated with the Avenue des Champs-Elysees that I absolutely had to visit again. We decided to eat at the George V restaurant sitting on the sidewalk to enjoy the place. This time, I felt the avenue to be more touristy and commercial, not only because of the shops and restaurants, but also because of the numerous airline offices and car showrooms. But as I stood in the middle of the avenue again to gaze at the Arc de Triomphe and the Place de la Concorde, my head swinging from left to right, I was once again mesmerized and totally captivated by the breathtaking beauty.
We had a few hours to kill before our night train to Venice, and we
debated about what we should do. While Rajesh suggested shopping at the Galleries Lafayette, I declined and instead suggested a relaxing hour in the Luxembourg gardens, followed by a visit to Les Marais, before proceeding to our train station. I still did not get enough of Paris. I was starving for more culture and I wanted to be outdoors!
The Jardin du Luxembourg, located near La Sorbonne is probably the most popular park in Paris. The park was designed in 1612 in French style. At the center of the park is an octagonal pond, known as the ‘Grand Basin’. We saw children renting small boats and sailing them in the pond. Around the pond are nice lawns and alleys, all laid out in a geometrical pattern. Numerous statues adorned the park. The park is also popular with chess players and Jeux de Boules (a game of throwing balls closest to the target) players.
The Palais du Luxembourg, a Florentine style palace looked out at us as we walked around the gardens. The Fontaine de Medicis, a beautiful baroque fountain, danced with glee. I was delighted to find that we could just grab a chair and take it to
any spot where we liked to sit. It was pretty cool and I needed a bit of rest. Grabbing a chair, we sat for a while by the Grand Basin, watching the kids sail their boats with their parents and missed mine with a pang. We changed our location again over to where an outdoor concert was playing and sat there listening to the melodious French music, which I had come to love from the very start.
The Marais neighborhood is one of the oldest parts of the city, filled with private mansion houses, the Picasso museum, latest boutiques and hidden spots, like the Carreau du Temple. We walked around the narrow Marais streets exploring and making discoveries in every block, passing trendy cafes, bars and funky shops. We passed the Jew neighborhood filled with Jews and Jewish synagogues and cemeteries. I believe, the Jewish community had lived in Les Marais since the Middle Ages.
Place des Vosges, the oldest square in Paris is flanked by 36 matching pavilions with red and gold brick-and-stone facades. It is said to be one of the world's most perfectly designed and harmonious squares, and is located at the very center of
the Marais. Architecturally, this square represents the first time in Paris that an arcade was used to link houses. Balconies were also designed for the first time, not just for decorative reasons, but to be used. The most famous resident of this square was the French writer Victor Hugo, who lived here until Napoleon III came to power and Hugo fled into voluntary exile in the Channel Islands. His home is now a museum. As we walked along rue des Francs Bourgeois, one of the most historic streets, we realized that it was time to go to Gare du Nord station, procure our luggage and proceed to Paris Bercy; else we would miss our train to Venice.
Little did I realize that we had spent a big chunk of the day discovering a very romantic Paris, until I stumbled upon the Frommer’s guide to Romantic Paris recently in the US and discovered the very same places that we visited listed in it. Paris is truly the most romantic city in the world! I’ve fallen in love with Paris and feel a bondage with France and would certainly visit again and again and again. But next time to check out
places like Nice, Cannes, Cote d' Azur as well. With a heavy heart, I bid adieu to the city that is filled with exciting rhythms and a wealth of art, history and culture; a city that constantly surprised me with its beauty both magnificent and rare!
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thames
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WOW!!! interesting
gaya...this is soooooo usefull, i mean ur blog is full of solid information in detail...i swear the next time i plan for a trip am gona ask u where to go n how to??