Do I actually have to study on a "Study Abroad Program?!"

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As of the late date of October 10 I began “real” school. Whereas before I only had 3 consecutive hours a day of “Intensive Language Program,” I know have ~ 5 classes which are unfortunately spread all across my days in very awkward ways. Let’s have a look at what exactly Winnie is studying here in France.

First of all, the program I am studying in is called “The Parisian Center for Critical Studies” mmhmm, excellent, but what exactly does that mean? Well as far as I understand this means looking at art history, film, and literature under a “critical eye,” ie, by studying different French philosophy. So for example there is a class (which is very good, but which I am not taking) on American Cinema seen through French Criticism.

I am taking four classes at the center, all are in French, and all but one are taught by Native French speakers. “The Center” as we call the building where our program is, is in the 8th Arrondissment. This area is about 10 minute walk from the Arc de Triumph, and in the middle of a business district. The building we study in has 4 classrooms, several different offices for directors etc, a kitchen, and a general study area with computers and tables and the library collection where people can eat, read the newspapers, check e-mail, and talk. The Center is beautiful, there is crown molding on the walls and all across the ceilings, huge ornate golden framed mirrors are in several of the classrooms - it is all very very Bourgeois and beautiful. There is another American Program called Contemporary French Studies that shares all the facilities of the Center as well, so in all there are about 40 people who use the center. The center often organizes different cultural events. For example we went to Reims, had a fantastic wine and cheese tasting event with all the different kinds of cheeses and wines labeled so we can start to branch out of the “brie” thing, this weekend we are going to Poitiers for an afternoon, and sometimes they buy tickets to different films or theater for us.

As for classes, there are two core classes that all 19 participants in the Critical Studies Program are required to take. One is called the Writing Workshop and is a course designed to help us learn to write papers and use French grammar correctly. Each Writing group is made up of about 6 people so we have lots of personal help. This course is taught by a certain Mme Ricci, a high energy, friendly older woman. Her intense facial expressions, usually her super intense smile, make my own face sore after the 1 ½ hours of class!! She reminds me more of a classic Italian stereotype than the more stoic French stereotype, and is just about the nicest and friendliest woman I have ever met. To boot, she also knows all the mistakes Anglophones are bound to make down to a T.

The second required course is called Theory and Method. This course is given by the director of the program whose name is Brent Keever. Absolutely love the guy. He is an American native but you wouldn’t know it if you saw or heard him. He has lived here for the past 15 years and has a French wife and young daughters. He is extremely nice, very energetic about the whole actually STUDYING abroad idea, helpful with any type of problem or question, and quite intelligent. In Theory and Method we study different French philosophers; right now we are on Sartre and Beauvoir. This is my first philosophy class and I am surprised by how much I am enjoying philosophy!

I have liked philosophy so much I decided to take a second Philosophy class called Universality in Question. This class deals with the idea of what can be considered universal (does “the rights of man” apply to everyone, should it?) verses individual situations (should everyone always be treated the same? What about different cultural values? Why are so many groups, such as women, people of color, homosexuals etc, excluded from rights that are supposed to be universal). This course should be interesting because we look at practical applications of philosophy through different issues in France. For example we are now studying “The Affair of the Veil” and the expulsion of Muslim girls who wear veils to school. This is a problem because the education system by law is completely secular and any “sign” or discussion of religion is forbidden. Even in history courses, discussion of religion or the influence of religion is practically banned. I would imagine this is especially difficult when you study the Crusades!

My fourth class at the Center is on Francophone Literature and the Question of Identity. Right now we are reading authors such as Senghor, Dib etc. Some of the questions we are looking at now are: What is identity, is it innate? Is identity how others view us? Why do Francophone writers write in French rather than their “native” language?

And now for the tricky classes, the courses at the French Universities!!
Well, I have been to 4 different classes so far. For anyone who doesn’t know, I am a big “check out my options” person, so of course I have gone to as many courses as I can fit into my schedule just to check them out. Subsequently I have had the opportunity for several horror stories to have occurred! The worst situation goes like this: I arrive at Paris 3 with lots of time ahead of me, find what I think is the classroom, realizing 3 minutes before class that this is not in fact the right classroom, getting up the courage to speak to someone for help, not being able to understand what he says, and finally about 6 minutes after the hour giving up and going to a different class even though I am late. Class has, of course, started and the classroom is completely full. The professor stares at me, I say “Bonjour,” and she replies with a short and very unfriendly “Bonjour. Normally we say excuse me when we are late. Well, sit down.” I fumble for the right words in front of an entire class, try to say I am sorry and that I am not already enrolled in the class, and try to force myself to walk up to the very front where there is one empty seat. Well, viola! Here is the stupid American right in your midst. But after that episode I always feel more comfortable going into a new class because I know the worst had already happened to me, and I lived, so there are no worries. She was REALLY mean, and I think trying to make an example of me. I am not going to take this course, not as a result of her making an example of me, but because the course is on Comperative Lit. which means that I would be reading books written in other languages translated into French and reading books that were written in English originally in French doesn’t make any sense to me. I would rather read French Lit.

There are two courses at the French Universities that I am interested in. One is on Zola and Psychoanalysis. The professor is extremely nice. I was a whole hour late for this course as a result of my mistake that a course couldn’t be 3 hours long, which it is, and also my unfamiliarity with military time. I told the professor I had been mistaken on the hour and he had no problem, luckily I did this during a break so the whole class didn’t have to watch me fumble. Most likely I will take this course, but it is from 6 - 9 pm and then a 45 minute metro ride home so that is a bit daunting. He was also very very nice when I asked if it is possible to take his course, he answered with a very assuring, “well yes! Of course!” Right now we are reading (and I am stumbling through) the novel Germinal.

The second course at a French University is a course on Film and Modernity at Paris 3. This course looks really good, because the professor speaks very clearly and is easier for me to understand, because it is during the day and not during the night, and because unlike the Zola course which has lots of adults, this course is made up of students my age and I am very hopeful to eventually make some French friends. However this professor very dryly and very firmly assured me there was no way to get in the course, it is full, and he can do nothing. All I need is his signature, I don’t have to enroll in the normal way, so next time I am going to break out my best pleading skills and try to convince him I need need need to take this course. This is extremely nerve wracking, not only because he doesn’t seem so sympathetic and also because there are always about 6 students after class that need to ask questions and I will have an audience. Just for the record, I find people my own age 50 X more intimidating to speak to than older adults.

In terms of school, this week is going better than last week. Last week I was so exhausted after my classes I could barely make it onto the metro. Travel time from one study center to another to home takes an immense amount of time, and I ran around a lot without eating very much. That combined with the amount of mental energy it takes for me to concentrate on what people are saying in French (for 3 hours straight!) zapped me of any energy, and one day last week I even had to stay home and sleep through a class. However, this week I have loaded up on Pasta, good energy food, and feel much better. For example I woke up today at 6 AM full of energy and so have time to write this blog! I think this energy is half nervous excitement, but at least I am not passed out like last week. So today I am going to Paris 3 to check out another course, this one is on French Lit. of the 20th Century. Just so you know there are several Universities here in Paris that fall under the title of the “Sorbonne.” Each university has a different specialty or focus and a different number which designates it. Paris One I think is what is commonly thought of as the “SORBONNE,” which is the oldest University in France. I am taking courses at Paris 3 / or 8 which are both large, rather ugly modern buildings.

So that is about all for now. It is getting to be the hour where I need to get dressed, eat breakfast, and make the 37 minute walk to school. It takes about 20 minutes to ride the metro, so I have decided that it is much more pleasant to walk if it is not raining to walk. This also gets me moving since I don’t have a gym and don’t feel inspired to jog the crowded, crazy-driver-infested streets of Paris.

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Photos

Paul Toussaint et Moi
I spent one amazing weekend visiting my parents' friends Pual Toussaint and Madeleine. Learned how to bake a chocolate cake with no flour and also how to make a tart / quiche dish, spoke only in French, and generally enjoyed excellent French company on a beautiful Autumn day.