An Attempt at More Art and Other Interesting Sights

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An Attempt at More Art and Other Interesting Sights

After having such a grand time at the Louvre we decided to spend Sunday going to the second most famous museum in Paris, the Musee d’Orsay. This spectacular museum is filled with three floors of masterpiece works dating from the mid-1800s to the early 1900s, mainly from the Pre-, Post and actual Impressionism period. Of course this museum is incredibly popular because everyone loves the incredibly approachable works by Monet, Manet, Cassatt, Renoir, Degas, Picasso, etc.

When we arrived at about 10am the museum was swamped. Do not even consider going to this museum without a museum pass (which can be picked up at some museums and the TI at the airport) which allows you to use the short line. We, since our Rick Steve’s guide book was lost with my luggage, did not have this amazing time saver so gave up and decided to move on while my parents waited in the incredibly lengthy line.

After much deliberating we decided to head towards a quaint little book store in the Marais neighborhood which is run by a couple of really nice Canadians. We were hoping we could replace our guide books so that we could at least be more prepared for Rome. Since the bookstore didn’t open up until about an hour after we arrived in the neighborhood, we decided to hit a smaller, out of the way museum in the area, the Maison Europeenne De La Photographie. This four story museum is filled with exhibits by major European photographers ranging from the 1920’s to present day and even has a few pictures by American photographers as well.

There were multiple galleries that really caught our eye (please forgive the fact that I have completely forgotten the artists’ names). The first gallery we entered had black and white photography from Italy in the 1940’s and 50’s. We really loved the portraits and some of the action shots. As someone who is learning photography I was amazed by what people could do with dodge and burn techniques in a dark room. Wild!

The floor that was really amazing was the top floor. In the third gallery on the top floor housed an artist who works on detailed miniature models. He created 3D models (like seriously souped up dioramas from elementary school) and then used light techniques to make pictures of the models that looked like actual rooms - an artists studio, bathroom, a hotel lobby, etc. At first, since everything was in French and thus we couldn’t read the inscriptions, we thought the pictures were of real rooms and the models made from the pictures. It took almost the whole gallery for us to discover that the series worked the other way around, the model came first, then the picture.

As an example of the detail in the models, one of the simpler ones was of a mantelpiece with a mirror over it and a piece of luggage and an umbrella leaning against the mirror. In order to complete the image, the artist used a piece of see-through glass as the mirror and then repeated the objects (luggage, umbrella) on the mantelpiece on the other side to give the feeling of reflection. Then, further into the model, are objects that would be further into the room if there actually was a real mirror. This way you stand and look at the model and are directly in front of the mantelpiece but get the feeling that you are seeing a whole room in the mirror yet can’t see your own reflection. Amazingly intricate, no? What’s more amazing is the fact that this was one of the simple models.

When we were done with the museum an hour and a half later we headed to the book store. Thankfully the Red Wheelbarrow book store keeps good old Rick Steve’s books on hand and had one of every copy except Italy. We picked up a fresh copy of the France version and set off to find interesting things to do in the rest of the city.

Our final stop of the day was in the Montmartre neighborhood in the north of the city. Here we got a chance to see the outside of the fabled Moulin Rouge and the rest of the red light district. We decided to check out the Eroticism Museum in the area.

This rather academic museum focuses on eroticism in art from multiple cultures over multiple time periods and gives a rather extensive history of the prostitution industry in France from the late eighteen hundreds. The museum was full of people just like ourselves which was nice because we were worried it would be really sketchy. Instead it turned out to be really tasteful and not even close to pornographic. Nudity was shown but never in an overly lascivious manner. While not a major sight and definitely not one I would recommend going out of your way for, if you’re bored and are looking for something to do it’s pretty interesting.

Later that night we got back together with Mom and Dad for dinner and went to an Italian restaurant close to our hotel which continued the trend of amazing restaurants on the trip. Mom and Dad had really enjoyed Musee d’ Orsay and had picked up Museum Passes for all of us so that we wouldn’t have to wait when we returned to the museum. Thus, we decided that Monday would be our day to see the Musee d’Orsay in all its glory.

Round 2 Fight: Musee d’ Orsay, Shopping and Other Museums

Once we were up and fed it was time to hit the art world by storm. We took our usual Metro trip through town and hiked from the Solferino stop to the Musee d’Orsay and noticed that there were much, much fewer people in the area which looked like a good sign. On our way, chattering wildly about enjoying the art a nice man mentioned to us that the museum was always closed on Monday. AHHHH!!!!

With round 2 being a complete failure we were at a bit of a loss about what to do. Kel suggested that we get the shopping done that I had been talking about for the last couple of days - the shopping to replace my lost backpack, clothes, etc. We returned to the hotel and looked up the camping store that had been recommended by Alban, our French friend who took us out in Hong Kong. With information in hand we went off to spend a bunch of money replacing all my stuff.

We spent about an hour and a half in Decathlon - Paris’s huge three floor version of Dick’s Sporting Goods - and left with a full bevy of gear. I purchased two pairs of shoes, two pairs of pants, one pair of shorts, underwear, socks, a new backpack, a raincoat and a few other odds and ends. With a good chunk of cash out the door, I felt that I had enough to get by for the next couple of months. Losing luggage is a pain but thankfully our travel insurance should cover the expenses once we hit the 21 days that British Airways gives themselves to find bags. Gotta love that airline efficiency!

We returned to the hotel after picking up some cornstarch for Kel and then decided to split up for the afternoon. Kel went off to relax in true Parisian style by reading a magazine in a café over lunch while I grabbed a cheap lunch and headed off to see more of the city.

Kel Note: Yeah, I’m hooked on the magazine and café thing! I actually treated myself to a fabulous French lunch for one at a restaurant that specializes in the Alsace-Lorraine regional food. Very big on mustardy tastes, but very yummy! I also got my hair cut (it’s been about 4 months) and trucked down to another local café for some more café au lait. Truly, relaxing like this . . . life doesn’t get much better!)

Back to Mike . . . I ate my ham and cheese baguette while I took the Metro back to the Montmartre neighborhood to see Sacre Coeur. This Roman-Byzantine church with five domes was built over 40 years during the late 1800’s and early 1900s. It stands on top of the highest hill in Paris which gives pretty decent views of the cities roof tops. Even though this particular sight was teeming with tourists of all ages it was still pretty decent. After spending about an hour in and around the church I marched off into the Montmartre neighborhood to see what interesting things I could find.

I had been smart enough (read sarcasm here) to leave my map behind in the hotel room so I wandered the area until I was thoroughly lost. Instead of getting worried I knew that I would stumble on a Metro station eventually which would take me back to where I needed to go. After about 25 minutes of walking I boarded the a Metro train for the left band of the Seine.

Since it was still relatively early I decided to spent some time at the Hotel de Invalides which is between the Musee d’Orsay and the Eiffel Tower. My parents had mentioned an Army museum which was supposed to be pretty neat so I headed their first. The next hour or so I toured the older part of the museum (pre-WWI) and got a chance to see incredibly cool coats of arms, swords, cannons and firearms which were owned by French royalty. The museum also has a pretty decent collection of arms from other parts of the world including Turkey, Japan and other smaller Asian countries. My favorite parts will always be in the intricate ceremonial armors which were never actually used in combat. These warfare implements are truly works of art that must have taken craftsmen years to make.

The museum was getting close to closing time so I headed to the only part of the Hotel de Invalides that was still open, the tomb of Napoleon Bonaparte. This huge chamber set under a big gold dome (which has 26 pounds of gold on it) holds Napoleon’s body as well as the bodies of other great French war heroes. The whole interior of the building is amazingly intricate and awe inspiring. While much of Europe hated Napoleon, it seems the French hold him in high esteem.

I walked back to our hotel from the museum and tomb so that I could get a chance to see the Palais Royal closer and get a chance to walk across the Alexander III bridge which has huge intricate golden statues flanking it. It seems where ever you go in Paris there is more to see and gawk at like a fool. This city truly is the Grande Dame of Europe. I’ve never been any other city that is remotely as beautiful as this one.

Hope you are well back home!

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Comments

[Diane and Jack]

Pictures
Hi you two!Did you get my last email? Lost your teamturner email, so had to try the blog one. Please send pictures of your parents Mike! After hearing all about families we want to see them too! And please tell them a big thanks for the salt and pepper grinder. It's wonderful!!! We miss you two!!! Love always, Diane and Jack