We Vote Paris in 2012...

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As we write our third installment of the blog, we would like to welcome several new readers to the blog who have been added and tell everyone that our trip is still going marvelously. Right now, we are sitting on a train from Paris to Amsterdam (Jacob is napping…surprise surprise) as I sit and have my second espresso (a definite new favorite) of the morning. Between the two of us we churned out a little description of our four full days in Paris. We know its long, but we hope you enjoy our musings wherever you may be reading them.

As to pictures, many are finally up and others are loading as you read this on our pic site at http://www.dotphoto.com/go.asp?l=jperlin&p=F950&AID=2504676&Pres=Y and although many do not have titles feel free to just scroll and enjoy. If we have more time, we will post several important pictures with the blog, but until now the internet has been usable but far from fast. We’ll take it one step at a time.

We’ll only be in Amsterdam for two nights, so expect another blog sooner than this one. With that here is Paris…



DAY 7- June 8, 2005—Paris, France
By Jacob

Bonjour! We arrived at one of the various Paris train stations at 9 am after the night train from Barcelona with an appetite for French culture and breakfast. Nourishing both, while waiting for our room at the France-Europe Best Western, I left Jonah with the bags and brought us back croissants from a bakery stand on the street corner (The Best-Western France Europe great name for a hotel right). I thought from my brief excursion some 8 years ago that we were next to the Champs El Lesyess (which we refer to simply as the “champs,” pronounced like the sporting goods company) due to the large structure, a semblance of the Arch Di Triumph, but realized I was very wrong and rather than being near the Champs comparable to Rodeo Drive of Beverly Hills we were in Stroudsburg-St. Denis an area known for it’s corners not only having bakery’s but also impure madams with monetary intentions. In due time after the first day and a few metro rides we ultimately got our bearings straight.

Eventually the receptionist informed us our room opened up. He was the Frenchman we expected, handing us our key with an attitude like “I don’t care if you have a problem, I have problems too.” We got to our room, comparable to the Charlie five except with a friendlier bathroom, and more comfortably settled in knowing four days in Paris were ahead of us. Like so far on our trip, eager to see the sights we decided to go to the real Champs for lunch before we made our way over to the Louve. Parisian metro first-timers we eyed the map like old men trying to read fine print in a novel. A local noticed our struggle and helped us find our stop and actually walked us all the way to our transfer stop before boarding her own metro. (This redeemed our judgment of Paris folk) We ultimately reached the Champs after her help and due to my Fond memories of eating at the Planet Hollywood Paris on the Champs with father on my first visit, I led us there for a lovely outdoor lunch where we enjoyed a delicious meal and Jonah made the waiter’s day not realizing tip was included in the bill and so including in essence a 35% tip.

After lunch we took a quick metro to the Louve on the yellow line. We anticipated a wait, but were pleasantly surprised to walk right in, even though their were a group of a hundred or so architecture students protesting in the lobby of the museum underneath I.M. Pei’s glass pyramid (which is the entrance and roof of the Louve). We attempted to hop on board the 3:45 guided English Tour, but it was full. Not to worry, because we had Rick Steve’s Walking Tours and Museums of Europe Guide with us, if you intend Eurotriping this is a must. Rick walked us through the Louve making sure we saw its treasures including the Winged Victory and Mona Lisa. (Tidbit of information Mona Lisa smiles only if you think she does, DaVinci used the sfumatto technique for her lips to create a bland expression which enables the viewer to determine her facial expressions) While I was unimpressed by the Louve’s collection Jonah really enjoyed its old school feel.

We decided to continue on the Paris classic tour making our next stop the Eiffel Tour. Although in a return to Spanish culture we took a detour for Ice Cream as our tapas, Spanish appetizers, and a Siesta in the Louve gardens where we played a typical game of Shesh Besh (Backgammon) and afterward Jonah napped and I read. (Yes Jonah napped and I read) By 8 o’clock we arrived at Gustav’s tower, and had the exact amount of euros left to journey to the top. It looked grim that we would actually have enough Euros, but we scrounged up a few coins at the bottoms of our daypacks to pay for the tickets. The view didn’t disappoint, for it would be hard to find a better way to see the entire city, but the height did make my legs tremble a bit. Circling the top of the tower we ran into a man who looked like a French version of Ron Jeremy and asked us to take a picture of him. Well he didn’t quite ask he made more of a motion to us, and afterwards returned the favor and took our picture. A surprising next move he motioned to us again to follow him to the other side of the top for another picture with better light, and he was right the second round of pictures turned out better. We named the silent rock-star photographer Passpartoo, of Around The World In 80 Days fame, and added him to the all-star list of random people we have encountered so far (including Saragossa Man, Tomas Hot Pantalones, and others)

After a sufficient amount of time at the summit, we made our decent down the tower which stunning structure looks most impressive from a ground view and trekked back to the metro to return to the Champs for dinner. I let Jonah pick the restaurant, and let me say he did a great job. We ended up at a nice French restaurant where we splurged for a three-course meal and a half bottle of wine, even though wine is the water of Paris, which was, how do you say in French, “Ze Magnifique.” Dinner lasted two hours, for they never rush you at meals in Paris, and then to walk of the meal a little bit we walked to the end of the Champs until we made a u-turn at the Arch Di Triumph to get back to the metro stop.

Day 8-June 9, 2005—Paris, France

We started our second day in Paris with what became our morning minhag (tradition), French breakfast pastries from the street corner bakery (I’m sure your surprised). With a list of things to do while in Paris, we decided to check off two things on our list and visit the Hotel des Invalides and the Museum De Orsay.

These two museums in the relative vicinity of each other, we decided to start at the Hotel and then see Orsay. While if you have been asking yourselves why we were so eager to go to a Hotel when the Best Western France-Europe was just dandy, there is no need to worry for the Hotel des Invalides is a museum of French military history and the tomb of Napoleon. The French military history section housed a massive collection of guns, attire, and various other accouterments of French Military beginning with knights and finishing with WWI. After touring the five-floored museum, and discussing the nature of having a museum dedicated to the military, we made our way over to the tomb of Napoleon. For such a small man his tomb was huge, the cathedral itself was background to the gargantuan casket. We paid our respects to the man, even if it is disputed if he is actually buried there, and in honor of him played a game of Shesh Besh on the outside steps. (I’m sure that’s what Napoleon would have wanted us to do; I hope people will play Shesh Besh near my grave the idea of it sounds comforting)

Anyways we made our way over to the Museum De Orsay, a converted train station that contains the largest collection of impressionist paintings in the world. Well actually we first made our way to another converted train station turned to an exhibit which we thought was the Orsay, before we made it to the actual museum. Jonah and I had a petty directional dispute, but made amends over half a baguette we split for lunch. After our snunch, snack/lunch, we eventually made it to the Orsay. A wonderful museum it was difficult walking into a room without a piece of artwork or statue that I had seen previously in an art history textbook. Each of the greats Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Manet, Degas, and the numerous other famous French painters (If you were a famous late 19th century French Painter and I left you out I apologize) each had their own room containing a substantial amount of their paintings. Jonah particularly enjoyed Monet’s paintings of the Cathedral at Rouen and I had a field day in the Van Gogh room enjoying how his paintings invite you in to his loopy and brushstroked mind. Compared to the Louve, Orsay was definitely more my cup of tea.

Feeling accomplished we headed back to the France-Europe for a laid back afternoon, because at night it was off to the Moulin Rouge. Like locals we hit the Internet café down the street and began uploading the pictures from our trip thus far that hopefully you are able to view after you finish reading this. We each bought an hour pass for three euro from the manager who dressed like an eighth grade skater boy, and the Internet café resembled more of a college computer lab then a wireless Starbucks. After we cleared our emails we headed back to shower and changed before going to dinner and Moulin.

On the metro, I thought I saw my SAT tutor from Penn State, Joe, but didn’t get to confirm my assertion. We got to Blanche (Moulin metro stop), which was pretty red light, and ate dinner at the Buffalo Grill that was quite good; the American onion ring appetizer was especially delicious. Time to kill before the show we walked of dinner a bit until 10:15 when we got in line for the 11:30 show. Actually Jonah got in line while I hit the ATM for we we’re again running low on Euro, when on my way over I ran into the guy I thought I knew from the metro. I figured why not and ask him, “Hey are you Joe from Penn State and did you teach an SAT prep class.” I found out he was indeed, and while he didn’t recognize me I didn’t blame him. He told me to make sure to go to Slovenia, I said sure Joe and then we wished each other a nice rest of trip. Now I had officially run into the first person I knew on our trip, which just randomly happened to be SAT Joe. I rejoined Jonah in line and luckily we had reservations for the show was sold out, and actually ended up with first class seating our chairs touching the stage. We we’re seated next to a nice British couple and drank the bottle of Champagne that came with the ticket price while watching the show from the best seats in the house.

While disappointed that Nichole Kidman didn’t come out, and having to realize it was not like the movie, the show was really superb, a definite favorite of Paris. It would have been enjoyable to watch even if the girls weren’t topless, although that was of course a nice extra. Seriously though the show was splendid including a comedian, shadow puppeteer, mini circus, a gymnastics routine done by a duo mildly reminiscent of Saturday Night Live’s Hans and Frans sketch, multiple dance numbers, and proved that in Paris they really can can can. A splendid evening we tried to grab a cab outside the theater after the show, but due to the number of people trying to do the same thing didn’t. We actually had to walk down the street a little bit further, passing a strip club where the guy at the door preyed on us trying to get us to come in, but to get him off our backs I simply informed him that me and Jonah were not brothers but instead lovers. He told us he had that too, and we turned our walk into a light jog until we luckily found our final cab of the day.

Day 9, June 10, 2005—Paris, France
By Jonah

After attending the Moulin Rouge the night before as well as having seen what felt to be all of Paris in a mere 48 hours, we decided a late wake up was in order and set out at about 11am. On our agenda for the day was a 35-minute trip outside of the city to the village and chateau of Versailles. After a short trip on a commuter railway, the highlight of which was a delightful duo of Accordion players (Pop you missed your calling) we arrived in Versailles and set out to find brunch. Finding a delightful café that served Jacob’s favorite, an Egg on Toast, we took our Petit Dejeuner, breakfast in French, at a leisurely pace before walking to the main attraction, the Chateau.

Although Mom has recently informed me that I had already been to Versailles while in the womb, I certainly had a better view of the palace this time. An expansive chateau built up by many French Kings although mostly by Louis XIV, we had trouble finding the entrance. After several missteps and many attempts by street vendors to sell us mechanical flying birds, we found the way to the King and Queen’s personal chambers. Included in this tour was a set of those headset audio guides which made the experience complete, not simply because of the sometimes interesting commentary, but more importantly because of the Baroque music playing in the background. As Jacob and I were both listening to them at the same time we decided to courtly prance up the main opening staircase as the music made it seem not just appropriate, but the right thing to do. After about two hours of touring we decided that it was incredibly impressive from the outside and less than impressive from the inside, but a good experience none the less. After a quick perusal of the large gardens we decided to walk through town only to end up at the exact same café as we had breakfast at for a quick crepe snack.

Upon returning to Paris proper we showered and prepared to attend Friday night Shabbat services at Kehilat Gesher, the “Franco-American Liberal Congreation of Paris.” Perhaps showing a bit of hubris on our third day in Paris we decided to take the metro to a stop that looked in the vicinity of the side street on which the temple stood. Unfortunately after many turn arounds, a rushed walked, and a little genuine luck we arrived 25 minutes later at our destination walking in only several minutes after the service had started. The congregation, led by a new member of the Jonah and Jacob trip to Europe All Star Team who Jacob affectionately named Rabbi-Captain Arnold Rochambeu for his pirate like rolling of “r’s” and banging on the table was great. A bit more comfortable in a more familiar setting we easily followed their unique prayer book which included pretty much every prayer in French, Hebrew, and English and enjoyed hearing the mix of languages all saying the same thing (something I think we to often forget in a typical service). After a quick oneg and motzi, we headed off to meet up with our first (or if you count SAT tutor Joe) our second familiar face of the trip, a friend of mine from Princeton, Marilyn Michelow. Marilyn is living in Paris for two months working at a hospital and so we contacted her upon arrival and decided to find her apartment which lucky for us was not so far from the temple and right near the easy to find landmark “Wong Express.”

It was great to see Marilyn and even better because she speaks perfect French. She showed us around the area and we went to a villagesque street and had a nice Italian meal where it was good to have a 3rd partner with whom to share a bottle of wine. After a slight mix up where the “4 Cheese Tortellini” was actually meat” we had a really lovely meal and got to catch up. Feeling pretty good, the three of us decided to journey up to Montmarte. The old hang out of the French writers and artists we felt like Van Gogh and Gaughan as we trekked up the numerous stairs to be met by the beautifully lit cathedral. Outside sat huge numbers of people chatting, singing, and drinking. Jacob decided to ask one man with a guitar if he knew any American tunes and upon saying no, started playing “Buffalo Springsteen.” After enjoying the amazing view of Paris at night we journeyed to a café named “Ambience Jazz” (guess who picked that one…name starts with J and ends in acob) and sat for a while and sipped some deliciously overpriced beverages. Getting late, we decided to walk down the hill and although I forcibly separated Jacob from the Beret he wanted to buy, we eventually trekked through the red light district once again (two times in two nights…) in order to walk Marilyn home (For we are always gentleman) and retired after a really wonderful day.

Day 10-June 11, 2005—Paris, France

Our last day in Paris. After indulging ourselves in an even later wake up than the day before we decided to really take it easy for the first time since in arriving in Europe over a week ago. We journeyed to the train station where it took far to long to find the place to buy tickets for our trip the following day, although we eventually were helped by a portly gentleman with great English who set us up. We were hungry, what else is new, and took in our least impressive meal of the trip at a Brasserie outside the station where we were treated to “French service” and basically ignored.

With one main stop left on our list of “must-do’s” we metroed to Notre Dame which was filled to the brim with tourists. Finding ourselves in a Chapel of such history and magnitude on Shabbat of course seemed slightly ironic, but we enjoyed seeing its structure and reading about its significance. Although our visit was a brief one of no more than an hour, it was nice to explore the area around the cathedral including the street side Crepe maker along the Seine (also on our list of must-do’s) and finally finding a park overlooking the back of the cathedral where I spent most of the rest of the afternoon finishing my third book of the trip. Jacob and I decided we wanted a few hours on our own and so he ended going back and taking a much needed nap (if a nap is much needed after 10 hours of sleep ;-)).

At around 7 we had arranged to meet Marilyn again for dinner an another night on the town. Although we got a bit lost we eventually found her and departed for the Latin Quarter. This bustling place with café’s, bars, and street side food was highlighted by a “jungle themed” mime who Jacob went up to and mimicked for a bit which got a large laugh from the onlooking crowd (picture included). Finally we settled on “Le Contrascape” for dinner where we sat in their garden in the back. After ordering, beef for Jacob and myself, Jacob had the good sense of seeing if the beef was cooked after having seen the way French had eaten meat thus far (They like their beef in France Moooing). Sure enough, it was uncooked beef so we changed our order and found things that we knew we’d like. After appetizers (which the French confusingly call Entrees) we were beginning to be bitten up so they turned on the bug zapper that served little other purpose but as a propane furnace above our heads keeping us more than toasty throughout dinner. Upon concluding our delightful meal we walked across the Seine to another part of town past the Parthenon where we indulged in delicious Gelato (we are definetly excited for Italy’s food) and explored what was the old Jewish quarter of Paris, that know houses an eclectic mix of “Goldman’s deli” and high class dress shops.

Our last destination for the evening was back to Montmarte for a show we had heard about the night before, which turned out to include fireworks and on stage skits about how Paris became a “egalitarian” city 100 years ago. Although our view was less than perfect it was a fun atmosphere. As the night died down, we took the metro back and walked Marilyn home (as a good set of gentleman ought to) and then came back to Hotel France Europe one more time to sleep and back. Marilyn did a great job showing us around and dealt with our “unique” sense of humor very well. It was great to have her as part of our trip.

We truly enjoyed Paris and French Culture, but as is the nature of our trip, Off to Amsterdam we go.

Merci Paris (which in French Rhymes) and see you soon.
The Perlin Bros

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