Troglodytique Farm at Rochmenier and Mushrooms in Saint-Hilaire

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On Friday June 20 we visited two interconnecting Troglodytique Farms at Rochmenier. These were literally hand dug out of the stone in the XVIIth century. Why?
The guide told us 2 reasons: 1) it was an economy measure: by digging out their cave homes, the farmers didn't have to bring in stones and wood to construct their buildings. They were actually able to sell the stone that they dug out and therefore recuperate the cost of hiring people to dig for them.
2) Protection: easier to defend themselves and their animals from marauders, etc.
They were smart too: they dug a large hole from above down through to the wine-making cave below. When it came time to harvest the grapes, they put them down the hole, directly into the winepress.

I must say I was glad to be up into the daylight again. Very little natural light in their "rooms", although there was a central courtyard open to the sky. Also there was a musty smell in the caves. I have talked before about the TUFFEAU which is the stone native to the Touraine area. However, this village-farm was dug out of FALUN which is must drier than the TUFFEAU.

These particular farms which included a chapel, wine-making, tool and food storage, bedrooms, kitchens, and living rooms (sometimes combined), workrooms, animal "barns". They were inhabited up until the 1930's! They were abandoned at the time when the small farm could no longer compete with the huge communal farms.

The same day, we also visited a mushroom museum/production centre. It also was in hollowed out caves--this time of TUFFEAU because is is known for holding dampness and for keeping a constant temperature of about 14 degree Celcius, perfect for mushrooms and wine. These caves at Saint-Hilaire (also in the Saumur region) were much deeper than the farm caves we saw. The mushrooms don't need light since they are neither a plant nor an animal. Unfortunately, the workers have to work in the dark or with "miner lights". The main mushroom raised and displayed here is the CHAMPIGNON DE PARIS, like our common mushrooms in North America. It was thus named because it was first produced in Paris. When Paris became too developed with underground constructions (Metro, sewers, etc.), the mushroom industry was moved to the Saumur area because of the available space and the tunnels, ideal for propogation.

At the end of our visit, the guides gave us a bag of mushrooms to take back to residence. We cooked them up in butter and garlic. Fantastic! Very firm, but with a good taste. Accompanied with a wine of the region: SAUMUR CHAMPIGNY (which I happened to have on hand!).

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