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Published: October 14th 2007
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Dordogne Markets
Chicken man of St Cyprien Dordogne Markets
One of the joys for us is to visit the local markets that abound in France. The colours, the smells, the sounds, all gently assault you as you wander with the locals. There is also a sense of participating in a custom and commercial enterprise that has flourished for centuries. Living in a gite has allowed us to buy foods and prepare them in our own kitchen.
We love the idea of shopping for what you need every day or two although it is hard for us to accept a partially stocked refrigerator. More food in our kitchen than we could possibly eat seems to be bred in us as a sense of security and prosperity. Shopping every day or two makes sense and results in fresher produce.
Markets differ but we have noticed some similarities in the small town markets that we have seen. In Dordogne the markets all have purveyors of foie gras, walnuts and nut products such as oil, regional wines of Cahors and Bergerac, duck meat, cepes and mushrooms, sausages, artisanal cheeses particularly goat and sheep. There are also vendors of meat, vegetables, fish, breads and bakery products. Usually at least one person sells
spices of fantastic colours and aromas. In October, flowers are still sold grown in home gardens. Some sellers can be found at different markets on different days.
Prepared foods are plentiful. Huge pans of paella, mussels, and poultry in various sauces make easy and economical dinners - Dordogne’s answer to take out. A crepe vendor is usually present making a variety of sweet crepes of nutella or confiture or fruit and a variety of savoury crepes of any combination of cheese and ham and eggs. Our favourite is emmental cheese and a sprinkling of black pepper. This combination is wonderful. Great vertical ovens roast chickens, pigeons, ducks, and quails while potatoes rest below basting in the drippings.
There is a variety of clothing, new and used, sold, pottery, dishes, knives, hardware, etc. Every market seems to boast a hawker with the latest kitchen implement or child’s toy.
One of the fascinating observations is that customers will stand in line to buy fruit or vegetables or chickens from a favourite vendor while next door the seemingly same product can be found at the same price.
It would be a mistake to think that markets are all about buying and selling. We
Dordogne Markets
All dressed up for market. were frustrated at first as people would stand and talk, blocking the narrow street. Sometimes customers would stand chatting to the seller while a line of several people waited to be served. However we seemed to be the only ones concerned. Markets are social occasions where neighbours meet and exchange gossip or pleasantries. Usually there are cafes nearby where one can join others for an espresso and watch the event.
Our favourite Dordogne markets are St. Cyprien on Sunday, Sarlat market on Wednesday or Saturday for pure size and scope, or Souillac on Friday.
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