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Europe » France » Aquitaine » Laruns
July 27th 2006
Published: September 25th 2006
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Crossing the Pyrenees proved dramatic. The van coped well with the upward climb out of Spain. We stopped at the top to take in the breathtaking views. There was even a shepherd with a huge flock of sheep on a high peak. On the way down however I overused the brakes on the steep twisting turns and there was suddenly the horrible smell of overheating brakes. We stopped for twenty minutes but they overheated again within two kilometres. We made a painful slow decent at last reaching the valley. Panic over we continued serenely on our way. The route was marked by many farms selling the local cheese.
We ended up in Laruns in the valley of d'Ossau which is surrounded by tall mountains. The town was setting up for the eveing market, however a torrential downpour drowned it out. The site is a bit up market and the town very French, every other person seems to be carrying a baguette. The French take their bread very seriously. The selection available in the boulangerie is wonderful not to mention the pastries and cakes.

28th July

The torrential rain continued overnight but had become just overcast as the day dawned. We finally got to the internet place. Booked 2 hours which passed rapidly. The French keyboard is very frustrating to use. For example the a is where the q is on a british keyboard, so constantly having to correct mistyped words.

29th July

Amazing clear blue skies, the peaks increddibly sharp. We caught the local bus to Artouste Fabreges where a former rail track used for the workers who built the local dam is now used for sight seeing. It is called 'Le Petit Train' and claims to be the highest railway in Europe. After the bus the next stage was to catch the cable car up to the railway station which is at 2,000 metres altitude. The train is touristy but the views as you tundle along the precipitous valley edge are tremendous. The clarity of the mountain air was incredible. The peaks stud out gloriously and you could see sheep and cattle grazing way below on the valley floor. At the far end station you trek 15 mins up to a lake which has beautifully clear water. We had great fortune on the way back to see a local mammal called a 'marmout'. We enjoyed the views from the cable car station before descending by cable car back to the bus stop. Where the long wait in the scorching sun for the only return bus of the day. We were joined at one stage by a couple of cows with their cow bells clanging away as they munched. That evening just outside the campsite was a local fete with live music dancing and drinking. More intriguing was the male singing coming from a house near the site of what I assume was local Basque folk music. The music from the fete (Quartier Pon) continued long after the fireworks into the early hours. The clearness of the sky meant that star gazing was superb. Jenny dyed her hair purple this evening which looks good. Tried a beer called 'Desperado' which seems very popular here - especially with us.

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