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Published: February 5th 2011
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Bordeaux was not on our original trip itinerary, but the train ride from Bruges to Barcelona was so long that we decided to stop somewhere along the way. We wanted a small city that could be seen in a day, and Bordeaux seemed ideal. Wine tasting also sounded like a nice break from all the beer in Amsterdam and Bruges.
Bordeaux is definitely a beautiful little city, though some parts still retain the feel of a sketchy port town. However, getting to and from Bordeaux was such a hassle that a one-day visit was not worth the effort it took to get there; we had to change trains in Brussels, Paris, and St. Pierre des Corps, and leaving was even worse. The woman who booked our outbound seats jerked us around— first telling us there were no seats, and then sending us on a route that included five transfers; we also ended up stranded in Narbonne for five hours because of a track fire.
I’m not saying Bordeaux is not worth a visit, but don’t try to squeeze it in— spend a few days. There are daily wine tours to vineyards located outside of
town; they cost about €100 per person and include two or three wineries plus lunch. The benefit is having a driver, so you don’t need to worry about where you’re going or how much you had to drink. If you’re interested in visiting wineries, this is the best option.
Because we were only in Bordeaux for a day, we decided to do our wine tasting at Bar a Vin (baravin.bordeaux.com), where most glasses of local wine were around €2 or €3. The Maison du Vin and the Bordeaux Wine Counsel operate Bar a Vin— they provide extensive information about the wine industry in Bordeaux, including tours. As you can imagine, regional varietals are well represented; a stop at Bar a Vin is a good precursor to a winery tour.
We had lunch at O de L’Ha (www.odelha.fr). This tiny little restaurant packed a whole lot of flavor. The modern decor contrasts nicely with old wooden doors, stained glass windows, and rough-hewn stonewalls. We weren’t sure what we were going to get, but we had a feeling that it was going to be good. The waiter brought over some olives, and a small tasting of gazpacho while we
looked over the menu— that’s when we knew we were in for a treat. We had mussels cooked with scallions and parsley in white wine that rivaled those in Bruges— fresh and delicious. The thick-cut fries were crispy on the outside and soft on the inside. Ravioli topped with a mushroom sauce, fresh basil, tomato, and onion was fantastic. All the food was fresh and tasty, and the wine was, of course, spectacular too. I highly recommend this place! Don’t let their odd website dissuade you.
Dinner at L’Ombriere was average, which, for French food is still pretty damn good. The escargot was basic, solid. Then again, you can cook an old shoe with butter, garlic, and basil and it’d taste pretty good. We both had the basic French staple of steak and fries— I ordered mine medium and got medium-well, and my friend ordered medium rare and got rare, but it was pretty good anyway. The profiteroles for dessert were also pretty standard. In my experience, French food is like French wine in that you really can’t go wrong. I neither recommend nor advise against going to L’Ombriere, it’s average.
As for sightseeing, the St.
Andre Cathedral dates to 1096, but most of the original construction is gone, replaced in the 13th and 14th Centuries. The building shows its age, and looks like a hodgepodge of repair work. Still, it is quite beautiful and full of unique character. Newer buttresses, added over the centuries to shore up the structure, have taken away from some of the symmetry that most cathedrals have. St. Andre seems bigger from the inside because the nave has no columns, so the tall ceilings and wide-open spaces have a greater impact on the viewer. The chapels surrounding the altar contain beautiful stained glass windows and the walls are decorated in deep, rich colors and intricate designs.
We also walked along Rue Sainte-Catherine, Bordeaux’s main shopping drag. As can be expected in any major European city, the numerous stores make this pedestrian-only thoroughfare pretty congested.
As we walked around, we discovered Bordeaux is home to either the laziest or most ingenious street musician in the world: sitting next to an open guitar case with a sign requesting donations, a TV played a video of him performing. The musician himself was nowhere to be seen, but I imagine he
was keeping a close eye on his donations while he sipped wine amidst the shady, cool refuge of a nearby café.
The 18th Century architecture of La Place de la Bourse is magnificent. Though this architectural style is often associated with Paris, it originated in Bordeaux. The large fountains in the middle of the plaza make it an ideal spot to sit and people watch.
Across from La Place de la Bourse, the Pont de Pierre spans the Garonne River. Though this bridge was built on Napoleon’s orders, it was constructed after his reign. Between each brick archway is a relief sculpture honoring Napoleon and the city of Bordeaux.
In addition, there are Roman ruins, a museum of fine arts, and many other plazas and basilicas to visit in Bordeaux. Overall, I thought the people in Paris were a little nicer and a little quicker to use English when they realized I didn’t speak much French. However, this could be due to the fact that Bordeaux doesn’t get as much foreign tourism. In fact, there were few English-speaking tourists as far as I could tell, so it definitely helps to speak a bit of
French. All in all, Bordeaux is a good destination, even if difficult to get to and from. I would recommend visiting Bordeaux only if you are going to stay for a few days and perhaps do a wine tour or two. Also, book your hotel in advance because there aren’t many reasonably priced rooms available in good locations at the last minute.
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