LA ROCHELLE to St EMILION

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LA ROCHELLE to St EMILION - 6th May 2007 (Sunday 24º)

We have been blessed with the weather. It is another cracking day in the South East of France and what does one do when the weather is good?

Well one does one’s washing, doesn’t one!

I spend 20 minutes in the Laundrette next door to the Hotel working out how to operate the soap powder dispenser and finally extract enough powder to make some bubbles. Throw the clothes into a washing machine the size of a Cement Truck and leave Deb in charge as I go to extract the car from the underground car park. It is a peaceful walk through Town, after all it is Sunday, and even the French must rest.

I am fearful that the FFF (Ford Focus Ferrari) may be jacked up on bricks seeing as it has been left unattended for two days. But my fears are unfounded - the wheels are right where I left them - all the windows are broken but the wheels are just fine.

Nah - only kidding - the FFF is in pristine condition.

I find my way back to the Laundrette down streets that I am sure aren’t meant for cars and bundle Deb and the washing into the car and head off towards Bordeaux.

We arrive at la Royan (see Route Map above left) and catch the vehicular ferry across to Point de la Grave. After parking the car on the vehicle deck we move upstairs into the passenger lounge and take our seats not unlike those on the Manly Ferry. The TV is blaring away in the corner but the view is too good to miss - having said that - a combination of sun through the window and the gently rocking boat work their magic and I find myself nodding off.

Aroused from my Nana Nap by the Captain on the PA system we jump to our feet and clamber down to the car. After several miles along the roads of Point de Grave we start to see a change in the landscape, you see this is the start of the Bordeaux Wine Region and the vineyards line the sides of the road. I figure that if you had an accident and ran off the road it would take two or three strong men to drag you back out onto the road - and that doesn’t include the car.

Instead of driving into Bordeaux we elect instead to head to an old hill top village some 45 kilometres to the east of the city.

Well what a great decision!!

The village of St Emilion turns out to be the jewel in our French Trip Crown. When you conjure up a mental picture of a French Village you are pretty much thinking about St Emilion. Cobblestone streets, a large Cathedral with tall spires that can be seen for miles, wonderful shops full of local produce…but more importantly, a bottle shop for ever 6 people of population!

There are 500 vineyards within spitting distance (pardon the wine tasting pun) of St Emilion. They are small concerns and usually family owned and run.

Into the well organised and staffed Tourist Bureau and within minutes we have decided on a Chambre D’Hotes. This is the Australian equivalent of a Bed and Breakfast but with your own bathroom, TV and other facilities.

The place we have chosen is called Chateau Franc Pourret (1km from St Emilion) and it is owned and run by Catherine Ouzoulias and her son. Peter Ouzoulias looks after the vineyard and the winemaking and Catherine looks after the Chambre D’Hotes and Marketing/Distribution.

The Chateau is over 200 years old and has two rooms on offer. One is already taken by an American guy (John - pronounced Jaaarn and his friend Ricoh ) and we have the other for three nights. The ceilings are at least 4m high and lined with exposed beams. The room is furnished with (real) French antiques (see photos) and everything about it suggests it has been decorated by someone with a keen eye for detail. The linen and soft furnishings are highest quality, the bathroom fit-out is exceptional (and recent) and the Cable TV just tops it off for me. All windows are ceiling to floor and have views over the surrounding vineyards.

We are given a tour of the vineyard and the wine making facilities. We get to sample the produce in an upstairs area that has been set out as a small museum full of old equipment and memorabilia. The Franc Pourret Winery produces a Merlot Cabernet style of wine which is light and fruity compared to some of the beefy reds we are used to in Oz.

Into the village for a late dinner and we struggle to find something open or that is not fully booked out. A friendly TAPAS Bar owner who is closing his restaurant, directs us to an Italian place that he says may be open and after driving down the narrowest cobblestone street in the world we find than indeed it is open and not booked out!

After Veal avec Champignon we head back to the Chateau and that big antique bed with the crisp white linen sheets.

Today the French have a new President - Nicholas Sarkosy.

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Photos

Vehicular Ferry
This ferry runs from Royan to Point de la Grave.

Beautiful St Emilion
Classic village in the South of France

Chateau Franc Pourret
Dream on!

Comments

[Jane]

Absolutely fantastic. What a wonderful read. Still laughing. Looking forward to the next chapter. Really well done.