Getting high in the High Tatras Mountains


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September 13th 2009
Published: September 13th 2009
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Last I left Trencin in western Slovakia and took the train to Tatranska Lomnica, just north of Poprad Tatry, the centre for excursions into Tatras mountain region. It is shoulder season now, as high season is their winter time, and I could just imagine it being a lovely winter wonderland with racoons climbing trees and snow capped fir and pine trees about to topple with the weight of the snow.

The train travel from Trencin was lovely, through Mala Fatra national park (towns of Vrutky, Martin) and passing many lakes and narrow gorges akin to going from Paeroa to Tauranga alongside the river. Being a seat reserved train,it was two abreast (not 4 like tio the hot trip up from Bratislava) and I sat next to this Slovak girl who turned out was doing her PHd in Law. We commiserated (and me celebrated secretly) about post grad study and how hard I had to work to get average marks. She gets by on natural talent, or perhaps being "Law' not 'Health' could get by on natural argumentative abilities as opposed to knowledge of laws and statutes!

There was a brief overlay of 30 minutes in Poprad, a run down town that survives on Aqauland Tatry which I was later to visit and acts as gateway to the high Tatra villages on the slopes of, amongst others, Lomnica Stit (said 'Lomnikskta Shtit, careful not to omit the t and say 'shit'). Ample time to visit the supermarket, Billa, near the station, I chanced my luck for some fruit, dairy and supplies for the next 3 days. But the till of the checkout I chose had issues, as did the operator of it, and hence a long queue formed that I was in the middle of, and so I missed the conection despite a large time cushion. Oh well, next train came and I got there eventually but not without a wild goose chase across lovely parklands and small village scenery at taatranska Lomnica. Turned out the Pension Belin was only 500m from the train station and all the guidance I got by email was 'northwest'. Where is a GPS when you need it.....at least the locals were helpful for a change and spoke English!

The next morning dawned to cloudy overcast and it was time to head to the hills even with an order opf rest from Doctor Sonya, I have come all this bloody way I had to do at least a short walk! The respiratory health was not improving (maybe the altitude worsened it??) and I at times sounded like a train wheezing it's way uphill with pack on back. Maybe a good dose of bronchitis thanks to the many infected folk of Mt Gambier hospital, latent onset mind you??? Will hold no grudges there!!
So I got some advice from stony faced Pension Belin manager and walked 1.5hrs from Hotel Grand Praha up to the end point, and where you can take the cable way up to the summit. You must buy a time ticket and cannot leave before 50 minutes is up once at the top. Being of the Eastern block countries, it is not the done thing to jump barrier arms and use the toilet when at the top. This is unless you smile sweetly and claim little Slovensko abilities. Plus adding 'Nova Zealandy' usually puts you in their better books, but do not expect the treatment to improve dramatically as unles you speak Slovak (foreign attempts not accepted) the response is cool. Needless, Lomnica Stit is worth the 20 euros to get there and back and the other funiculars are cheaper in comparison - you cannot ascend this 2nd tallets peak alone! Although we saw two guys tackling it when riding the crammed encased funicular up there, it is of Everest proportions....

I made the afternoo one of rest and relaation putting painful left big toe and celluulitic right shin to rest with some good Slovak vegetable and bread from the very economically priced train station supermarket. Purified my blood with beetroot at 10 euro cents each an absolute steal! Not as firm and colourful as Sartors Ave produce though...

A god sleep and some provoking thought about walking on my ailments determined the next day plan - to got to the world famous green resort of Aqaucity Poprad, where it is summer all year round. Although the bus timetable said it was free return trips for patrons of the Aqaaucity, I could not make sense of the timetables...nor could the people I asked at the Aurobusova Stanica enlighten me. Frustration followed on both parts and I threw my hands figuratively up in the air and decided to just leave and put lugagge in the hands of a man at Poprad station with no English or obvious security. Gotta have faith Pauline, not everyone os out to pickpocket or fleece you even if it feels this way sometimes, surely???!! Aqaucity was only 1km or less from the train station and I had a good time swimming the 50m pool and chatting to the lifeguards with my improving Slovakenglish. I summonds a kicvkboard with some gesturing and all was good in the aquatic world for one day.

That evening after lolling in the park outside the station, I left for Kosice and then onward on the only Budapest bound train at 6.13pm from Kosice. Hence late arrival into Budapest and thankfuly I met some helpful Hungarian people who gave me a ticket on the bus to go to Gellert hills where the guesthouse was. That is another blog though, so watch this space.

Apologies for the lack of photos - uploading is banned here at Bara Guesthous, so you shall have to wait. If only I had a laptop for all the WiFi I have passed through, but that would not be light footed traaaaaavel!!!



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