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Published: August 5th 2016
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As expected we wake to 15C and rain. So it is off up the hill to Prague Castle, walking gingerly on the shiny damp cobblestones. The tourist groups are here early, especially our friends from the PRC in groups of 50 or so, always keen not to lose contact with their comrades so they tend to move as one fluid mass. The pouring rain stops the use of the selfie sticks though which is something.
We join the queue for the cathedral which looks interminable but in fact moves quite quickly. The cathedral was begun in 1338 but not consecrated until 1929, which left us a little unclear as to what happened in the intervening 600 years! Maybe the numerous side chapels were consecrated. Anyway, some of the reliquary and side chapels are very impressive, especially the royal chapel which has been beautifully restored with assistance from the Getty Foundation. The most prized reliquaries appear to be parts of the hapless St Vitus. First one of his arms was bought from the German Emperor, and later his torso. Given the poor man was killed by being boiled in oil, we have to assume that the relics were simply bones.
Back into the rain and across the courtyard past the President's residence to the Great Hall, an impressive but empty room with various side rooms containing the usual Renaisssance furniture, paintings of royals and various important persons. Into the slightly subterranean section showcasing the confusing history of Prague castle, with ancient jewellery etc and broken bits of stuff artfully displayed. Down Golden Lane, which contains twee little medieval houses which are quite attractive as we recall except the houses are not very tall (having been built for people of humble origin) and all you really see is a sea of umbrellas ahead and to the side of you. By now the wind is up and we are getting pretty wet and cold, so it is sweaters on. Back up the Powder Tower, a circular two story bastion with dummies uniformed in the changing costumes of the palace guards over the last couple of hundred years. There is one small display acknowledging the odious Communists were in power for 41 years but that period is largely glossed over. We are amused to learn that the pale blue uniforms the castle guards now wear was designed by the costume designer for the
film Amadeus. there is nothing left to do but start the careful walk back down the slippy cobbles to our hotel, stopping off for some Vietnamese style food at a hipster type cafe nearby. After lunch everyone relaxes in the hotel. Hannah displays great virtue by going off the gym to lift some weights.
After a couple of glasses of wine we head off to Field for dinner. This is a Michelin starred restaurant found and booked after extensive research by James and Hannah, as an early birthday present for Sara. Minimalist chic fittings, all male waiting staff dressed all in black with Miroslav the maitre d' who is not a man in black. In a word – extraordinary, both in the quality, imagination and presentation of the dishes, and in value for money. In London you would get steak and chips and a pud for what you pay here for four courses of starred Michelin food. The plates on offer are only described by the principal ingredients, so you have no clue as to the creation and taste that will appear. All of them are spectacularly good, making it hard for anyone to have food envy,
though Hannah does her best with the main course. Two bottles of Moravian wine accompany the meal. We know nothing about Czech wine so go with a house red and a house white, both delicious and different from anything that is familiar to us. David engages Miroslav in conversation on the way out. He worked for five years at the Mandarin Oriental in Knightsbridge before coming back to found Field with the chef and three other partners. We book for Sunday lunch before walking back to the hotel. The rain has finally stopped and we all feel in need of a bit of exercise.
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