Day 24 13th June Rovinj

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Day 24 13th June Rovinj


As the guidebook so succinctly put it:
Rovinj is a welcoming old oasis in a sea of tourist kitsch.


I could not have put it better myself! The old town is delightful IF you just take a step or two off the main tourist trail – twisty, narrow lanes with tall slightly dilapidated buildings reaching for the sky; it is indeed rather like Venice without the canals. Pula (at the end of the Istrian peninsular) and Trieste became the main ports when the Austrians ruled Istria and therefore little Rovinj was allowed to remain the past – and so it has. There is still a proper working feel about the small town and the old harbour is full of hard working fishing boats.


The weather was perfect for our cycle ride and town stroll. Cloudy but warm. We cycled through the old town and out past the new town and new marina (oh dear, why can’t we emulate the architects of the past?). The cycle track leaves the modern urban sprawl and hugs the coast line for a few miles affording a wonderful view out to sea. This was a deep contrast to the not-so-wonderful view of the sunbathers on the rocks…..


Those that know Croatia will be aware that the rugged coastline plunges straight down to the sea, there are few, if any, beaches as we know them. No wading gently into the waves waiting for the cold water to bite………..it is dive or nothing. The sunbathing takes place on concrete platforms on the rocks – nicknamed Tito beaches. Thus, the over indulgent from a certain country I do not care to mention on a public blog, lie like walruses on the rocks. It is not a pleasant sight. This, together with the fact that there is a certain penchant amongst certain nations for nudism adds to the horror before ones eyes. Luckily for me I had to concentrate very hard on keeping Big Bertha (the bike) on the track…..


Big Bertha’s tyres are verging on the ‘slick’ – narrow road tyres with a little tread (just for good measure) – she does not like flinty shale tracks which cause her to skew in all directions. My concentration had to be full-on – no ogling the natives (phew!).


Our demanding (not) cycle ride warranted a full-on seafood meal overlooking the harbour. What a reward.


Finally, on our way back to base we came across another horror – the cruise ship was IN town. Groups of tourists (nationality mixed) followed their leader through the town. It is difficult to describe the scene but let me try.


Imagine, if you will, the LEADER – young(ish), carrying overflowing bag, holding up a stick/umbrella/an unidentifiable ‘follow’ me sign. Following the Leader are the PUNTERS – a mixed bag but mostly of ‘a certain age’. They have cameras slung over their shoulders and a glazed look upon their faces. On closer observation I see why. Each Punter has an earpiece clamped in their ear into which, by some miracle of remote connection, the Leader is speaking. They are attached by an invisible thread to the Leader who is drivelling on and by so doing removing any form of thought from the Punter. The Punter does not need to observe or formulate ideas of their own – indeed the Punter is an AUTOMATON.


In spite of the scary walruses and the automatons we had a great day in Rovinj. Tomorrow we are contemplating driving north into Slovenia, it all depends on the weather.

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