Sailing through Croatia

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I looked to the left; and to the right; scanned the aisles front to back. This was the Easyjet flight from London to Split and there were Australians all around me. I swear I went to university with that girl; I have seen him somewhere before as well. This flight may well have been a Jetstar flight from Sydney to Melbourne. Its funny how word gets out about a place. I remember when I first moved to London and one of the first travel tips I received was to go to Croatia. That was all the encouragement I needed; so after booking this trip all the way back in February it was great to finally be on the plane heading for the blue waters of the Adriatic.

The heat. It hit me as soon as I left the aircraft and I could feel my white blotchy skin opening its pores to top up on vitamin D. As my mate Roods would always say “its all about the base tan.” Any sun would do me after spending the summer in England. Yes it was better than the previous summer but it still felt like Autumn to me. The arid Croatian landscape kind of shocked me a bit. I don’t think I was expecting the Garden of Eden but I didn’t expect it to be this dry. Split was nestled at the base of this rugged coastline where the crystal clear waters of the Adriatic lapped its shores…only one more day then I would be out on the boat.

The harbour was empty for my morning arrival but this would soon change mid afternoon. Dave (you guessed it, from Newcastle, Australia) and I checked in at the same time at Hostel Manuela so we wandered around Split until it became unbearable. It was around 36 degrees and even after a swim I couldn’t handle this anymore and headed back for a nap. It cooled down slightly in the afternoon for me to revisit the harbour and check out all the boats that had just pulled in the for the night. The “Sail Croatia” or “Katarina Line” banner adorned most of the newly arrived boats: so this is what the next 7 days would be like…awesome.

In one of the clubs on Bacvice Beach I met up with two of my friends who had just finished their trip. They couldn’t have been in better spirits; I wasn’t going to be disappointed. One of the boys on there boat summed it up when I was chatting to him at the bar around 1am. He said “Put that drink down and go home now, you will need all the energy you can get.” Advice duly noted….


And so, after watching the clock tick and the thermometer rise it was eventually time to board the Orao, which would be my home for the next week. A few people were already sleeping underneath: lucky I listened to that guy last night I thought. Xena and Venetia boarded the boat with all the girls but I couldn’t spot Luke who was my kind of connection to the group. “Where’s Luke,” I asked Xena whilst looking ashore expecting him to be loaded up with everyone’s bags. “He decided to play in his footy grand final and is meeting us tomorrow. Same with Bart as well,” she informed me. Even though Luke’s team were going to win by 100 points I could see why he wanted to stay behind. Docked in port with the sailing boats bobbing up and down in the crystal blue waters, I couldn’t think of being anywhere else.

If the flight over from London was any indication then The Orao was all the proof you needed. 20 passengers: 20 Aussies. I noticed how much beer they were packing down in the engine room: the crew were already one step ahead. There was really our group of 10, another group of 8 and then 2 Aussie girls. Everyone seemed to get along well right from the start which was a good sign. As we pulled out of Split there was already a few scores on the board for who could drink the most beer on the boat. It had begun.

Today's journey was around a 3hr cruise down to Makarska, which was a small town on the mainland south of Split. We hugged the coastline for the trip and got a glimpse of Croatian life by the sea: small rocky beaches packed with umbrellas, winding coastal roads hugging the mountains and people enjoying watersports including parasailing. The town was setup ideally for tourism: lots of bars and restaurants lined the dock and also the beach on the other side of town. This is where we settled in for a few cocktails to watch the amazing sunset (first but not the last).

After some tasty seafood for dinner everyone headed to a bar on the other side of the town called ‘Deep”, however most people knew it as the ‘Cave Bar”. Walking around the rocky headlands and down a few steps you are welcomed to a bar that looks like it has been cut into the cliff. It was pretty dead when we started drinking but after going away and coming back after midnight it soon got pumping. Big night Number 1.


Windy weather welcomed sore heads for the morning journey to the island Brac. After breakfast most people took it easy down below to wait for more favourable conditions. By the time we reached Zlatni Rat Beach, one of the most photographed beaches in Croatia, the weather had recovered and it was time to swim. This beach is particularly popular amongst yachts and super cruisers for its pointy white beach and is a great spot to show off your piece of equipment if you know what I mean. We were one of the first boats to arrive and found it easy swimming the 100m to shore. However our boat drifted over the next 30 minutes and with the increasing traffic of sport boats and other yachts the swim back was now twice the length and twice as dangerous. Thank god for Lilos.

We anchored here for the whole day: eating, swimming, checking out the nude men on the back of the super cruisers (for girls viewing only obviously). There were some really big boats there and with news of Beyonce in Croatia everyone was hoping that her boat was here in Brac. All I could see was Italian looking men in speedos though, no hot booty to speak of.

Waiting at the dock in Bol like two wives awaiting there husbands return was Luke and Bart; Luke with something glistening around his neck. To say he was proud would have been an understatement: his team romped it home in the Grand Final and his medal was firmly fixated around his neck. It was also great to have a few more boys on the boat to even out the 15 girls. Barts mate Trish who was also welcomed aboard made the odds 3-1 of girls to guys: to say our captain was happy would be another understatement!!!

Bol was a nice little postcard town. The harbour wasn’t jammed with boats but there were enough people to keep the town on its toes. The board shorts store at the end of the main road was a hit with all the guys…noone could resist half price boardies. As the sun came down everyone congregated around the cocktail bar with the bamboo thatched umbrellas. With 3 more people aboard it was like meet and greet again for the group. We filled a few tables at a restaurant on the docks and everyone was enjoying the local seafood on offer. The consequences of my seafood risotto last night was a lingering garlic taste for the next 12 hrs. Tonight my cuttlefish risotto dyed my teeth black. It still tasted ok even though it looked like a bowl of black porridge.

More cocktails followed dinner but the weather was putting a dampener on the partying. The thatched umbrellas whilst protecting us from the rain couldn’t help protecting us from the wind. After a few attempts to hold a conversation over the wind I headed back to the boat early. From all accounts tomorrow night in Hvar was going to be big.


It was tough waking up everyday to a picture perfect blue sky and even bluer waters. Why am I living in England again for???? A short journey this morning across the Hvar Channel and around the heads brought us into Hvar Town. The 7th Century city walls crept up the hill towards the Castle and Fortress, which towered above the red roofed houses. We dropped anchor in what looked like a busy body of water with water taxis and other boats coming close. It was a great place to swim with the town looming in the background. Then the water police came and informed us we would have to drop anchor near Jerolim island as we were illegally parked so to speak.

A water taxi in the mid afternoon took everyone ashore into Hvar Town. Due to the low cost nature of our trip it was too expensive to dock in the daytime hours at the main port: we all didn’t mind. Everyone split up after stepping ashore and a few of us climbed up the hill towards the Castle and Fortress. The views of Hvar Town and the surrounding islands were amazing, the sun glistening off the blue water. Sweat was pouring off our faces on the way back down and a rendezvous with some icy cold beverages wasn't too far away. We met the rest of the group at the beachside bar Splash where they had been since arriving on shore. At least we earned a drink from trekking up the hill I thought. The DJ was really good and if it hadn't been for his set stopping and the sun setting we could have stayed there all night.

Every restaurant was packed but thanks to the girls quick thinking we had a table for 20 booked at a seafood buffet place just off a little laneway. The seafood platter I shared was great. At least 20 people were waiting impatiently for a table, looking on in vain as everyone enjoyed their meal. You could sense their hunger through the stares that they were sending our way, trying to urge us to move on as quick as possible. As we headed to the harbour in search of a cocktail bar the people behind us were rushing to fill our empty tables.

Hvar Town lived up to its reputation of being a great nightspot. The cocktails on the water revved everyone up before entering Carpe Diem, the place to be when it hits midnight. Sparklers were coming out of peoples drinks, the bar was set on fire, some guy tried to convince me he was from Bermuda (like that's a country...) it was pretty crazy in there. We shuffled into a few couches and let the night pass with some good music, good company and shitloads of drinks!!! Climbing over 4 boats in the dark was a slight challenge whilst intoxicated but no injuries to report of. Bretto gave everyone a glimpse of his guitar skills on the top deck before the German lady next door decided that feelgood tunes weren't a good idea at 3:00am. Big night Number 2.


Another blue sky greeted us in the morning for our journey to Korcula. Everyone being dusty from the night before it was pretty low key on the boat: lots of reading, sunbaking and playing cards. The news of Australia losing the Ashes had everyone down (well, probably not everyone considering Lou actually bet against Australia) but here it was easy to forget about. With no poms on board everyone just pretended like it never happened. Arriving in Korcula in the afternoon was memorable, it was so green compared to the arid mountain landscape that we were used to. Two turrets and a church stood out amongst the red roofs, with one of the turrets being a bar that we would later enjoy a memorable sunset.

The town was alot more relaxed compared to Hvar Town, it actually felt like people lived here instead of every place being a restaurant or gift shop. The winding cobblestoned streets were adorned with flowers and washing was hung out trying to catch the afternoon sun. It was a maze of a town but really fun to explore. Restaurants packed the waterline and the markets were in full swing at sunset. A few of the girls enjoyed the sunset from the turret bar whilst everyone else wandered the streets just taking it easy.

A hearty meal in the evening made me realise that I was still pretty tired from last nights effort. A few drinks were had at Locos bar in town but most people stumbled back to the boat before the clock had even struck midnight. Because the weather was bad the day before we had cancelled the island Vis out of our schedule. This meant that we would stay in Korcula for two nights so today we anchored tha boat in a little bay not too far from Korcula. It was a beautiful spot to swim and snorkel and soon the bay was full of anchored boats with everyone enjoying themselves. Alice knew some of the girls from another one of the boats and invited them over for a swim near ours. Alot of the Sail Croatia boats would be in port tonight so everyone was keen to make up for the quiet night we had last night. 7 new boats were docked so the town was full of young people and a big night beckoned. Everyone crammed into the tiny space on the rooftop of the turret to enjoy one of the most amazing sunsets I have ever seen. One guy was doing his best to make sure everyone had full cocktails in their hands whilst the sun was getting closer and closer to the horizon. I couldn't have been in a better mood: good company, great weather and amazing scenery, Croatia hadn't disappointed me one bit.

And then we kicked it up a gear and went for it. This night it really was crazy at 'locos' (mind the spanish pun). It was jammed with mostly Australians from the other boats, some dressed up in sailor outfits that left nothing to the imagination (and I mean nothing). A nightclub further into town was our final destination with the stage up front or "slut box" as some people may call it being utilised by certain members of our crew. Venetia bought me a drink at the bar: a small shotglass of something next to a big glass of water...ominous sign. Yes it burned all the way down but it woke me up: from then on I just felt like dancing. And thats what we did until the wee hours of the morning. Big night Number 3.


Yep hungover. Yep still blue sky and bloody hot. It kind of felt like Groundhog Day but unlike Bill Murray I would love to be stuck in this daily routine. Mljet Island and National Park was the destination today with the expected arrival to be around lunchtime. We arrived at the main port town of Polace which was really a little village by the port. It should be quiet here tonight I thought as I fought with my hangover from last night. A little beach around the bend was where everyone chilled out before lunch and the afternoon activities. Over the hill was a 12th century Benedictine Monastery which was situated on the islet of Sv Marija in the middle of the salt water lake Veliko Jezero. The postcard picture looked good so it was definitely worth checking out. It was steaming hot but some of us decided to hike over the hill instead of waiting for the bus. This was subsequently rewarded with a satisfying swim once we reached the saltwater lake of Veliko Jezero. It was definitely easier to float here than out in the open waters due to the salinity difference.

The rundown monastery was nice but due to the reconstruction efforts it couldn't be fully appreciated. Still it was a nice boat ride across the lake and the surrounding islet was a nice place to swim. An old man in 80's speedo's waiting for the ferry kept everyone amused whilst we waited under the heat of the afternoon sun. The rest of the day was spent at a leisurely pace: some snorkelling and fishing kept the clock ticking over until Beer O'clock. Sitting atop of the boat whilst the sun dropped behind the islands with a Karlovacko in hand was the perfect way to spend the evening. On the way up to the seafood restaurant we passed a cage that was full of crabs and a gigantic lobster. My squid was good but some of the other girls meals were a bit touch and go. Meanwhile back at the boat Brett was conducting a sing-a-long with his guitar in hand providing a free show for diners at the local restaurants. I had a bit of man-flu after drinking a few nights on the trot so took it easy whilst a few of the other guys ended up making a late night trip down to the beach after the jam session atop of the boat.


Our last day of sailing meant one final swim where some of the girls could gather up enough Dutch Courage and jump off the top rail of the boat. The swimming spot this morning was probably the best yet, nestled in between green islands around the National Park with the 10m bottom easily seen with the clear blue water. We were joined by a few other boats that were noticeably bigger than ours. Families and older people seemed to occupy these two new arrivals. A naked old man stood at the back of his boat for 5 minutes admiring the scenery before he finally jumped in to everyones relief. A few British guys swam over from there big boat to have a chat, everyone on their boat was over 65 so they were happy to see some younger people. Queue Jaws music....da de....da de...there were no sharks in the water but tiny pieces of 'sewerage' were floating in the region where everyone was swimming. Queue screaming from the girls and people frantically trying to swim back to the boat!!

Everyone was in a bouyant mood for the final leg into Dubrovnik. Group shots were taken as the city came into view. We couldn't have had a better group of people, everyone got along so well and with emails and the like being taken it was actually genuine rather than the fake line of "oh you can be my facebook friend." 2 enormous cruise liners were docked as we pulled our small vessel into port. These two boats would have filled the town with an extra 2000 people so I imagined it being kinda hectic. It was really hot today and catching the bus from our port into the old city was a good idea. Hills towered above the city where a cross stood, marking how close the invading troops of the recent war came to taking over the city. However the Croatians with the help of the Germans sent them back over the hill. The old city was beautiful and you could see why this was a popular tourist destination. Because of the heat Amy, Lauren and myself decided to walk the city walls closer to sunset when the heat wouldn't be as bad. So we explored the city streets whilst the rest of the crew braved the heat on the walls. A sign which said "cold drinks and best view" seemed the best place to escape the afternoon heat. This was one of the cliff bars I had heard about. People were swimming below and some people were jumping off some of the higher rocks which kinda looked dangerous. The view was 'the best'.

Our walk on the city walls was still hot but I wasn't sweating as much as I was a few hours before. We arrived at the viewpoint for the Cliff Bar just in time to see Luke jump in off one of the rocks. Apparently he had been standing there "like a girl' for 5 minutes prior but we just saw him plummet down into the water. The walls took about 90 minutes to walk and was a nice way to see the old town. Peering into the daily life of Dubrovnik citizens doing there washing, having a cup of tea on their terrace and watching the large number of cats roam the roofs. The evening was spent in the Old Town with some Mexican for dinner and some drinks in an old town square. The heat had drained everyones energy and it was no surprise that stumps were pulled up pretty early. Plus Bart had organised a Day Trip to Mostar, Bosnia & Herzegovina for early the next day so some rest was needed.


Goodbyes to the crew were said early Saturday morning as they prepared for their next group and the return journey to Split. We headed straight for a hotel where a minivan was picking us up for our Day Trip to Mostar. The van was spacious and had air con so everyone was stoked. A few border controls were crossed as we zigzagged between Croatian and Bosnian territory. We stopped at a little village called Počitelj which had some markets and a 14th Century Fort on top of the hill. An islamic mosque which had recently been rebuilt after the war was the main focal point of the town. The fort which really was a 'shell of a fort' and had great views of the river and the valley below.

The only thing I really knew about Mostar was the Stari Most Bridge. It was a beautiful setting for a town with the bridge standing proudly above the Neretva river. We had a guide who took us around the city for a few hours and visited an old wooden house that was typical of the 17th Century under the Ottoman Empire. On first impressions buildings still showed scars of the recent conflicts. I didn't actually realise that the bridge was damaged in the conflict in November 1993 until I stumbled into a photography exhibition which showed a video of the bridge collapsing under fire from Croatian Defence Council Units. The newly reconstructed bridge looked a treat. And a man in red speedos jumping off it made the perfect picture.

A few of the restaurants looked to be serving a roti type bread with lots of meat that kind of looked like a kebab...I wanted one of those. It was called a ćevapčići and they were great. To finish this fine meal a gelato was had on the way back to the minivan. I stopped in the shade to escape the heat and saw a thermometer reading 38 degrees in the shade...bring on the air con. I had a good sleep for the journey back to Dubrovnik and had lots of energy on checking into our hostel Fresh Sheets. It was next to the cliff bar so after seeing Luke jump off yesterday I really wanted to give it a go. Apparently Luke had jumped off the smaller rock yesterday so I tried that one first...yep it was still high. Now for the higher one. Luckily Jason was there with me and he jumped first just to show me the way. I chickened out 3 times before I finally jumped. It was around 12m and it was significantly higher and scarier than the last one but it pumped the adrenalin around thats for sure.

My last night in Dubrovnik was spent up an alleyway at a bar which was serving buckets of cocktails: Thai Style. It brought back alot of good and bad memories as I ordered the Whiskey, Coke and Red bull combo. It got messy after a couple of buckets and a trying to navigate up the hill to the hostel was a bit of fun. I rose very early the next morning feeling much better and wandered the empty streets of Dubrovnik before the crowds and the impending heat. Cafe's were starting to unstack the table and chairs for the morning rush. Back at the hostel talking with Brett over breakfast Jacqueline, Jess and Stef stumbled in from an all night dance party they went to at an abandoned hotel. It was 8am and they were still buzzing. Meanwhile Brett had just received his T shirt from the hostel from his drinking session the day before. Every beer you bought got you a ticket in the draw to win a hostel T shirt: Brett had at least a 50% chance.

And so with the clouds rolling in a day at the pub watching the football turned out to be the best option. I said goodbye to everyone in the afternoon and headed out to the airport with Alice and Bec. I was exhausted but ecstatic at how good the last week had been. And yes, I now have a base tan!!!

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