Zooming to Zadar from Rijeka + limestone marble Split

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When I say zooming, these things are relative on Croatian buses. Just say 12.30pm bus from Rijeka (ticket bought when I arrived) took 4 ½ hrs to get to Zadar (about 200km?) which is about normal. You cannot exactly race around here too much and the travel-time has to be factored into your planning. Which is almost certainly why my trip down the Croatian coast will end at Split and then head inland into Bosnia-Herzegovina, where there will hopefully also not be the same public holidays! The trip to Dubrovnik from Split is 4 ½ hrs, some of which may have to be repeated coming back due to tortuous ways out of Dubrovnik, mostly involving very long bus trips (like 10hrs) to get reasonably in the direction of Vienna.

Travel whinges aside, and they are obviously an integral part of the complexion of the trip, what did you I see today that was worthwhile? After the late meal in Rijeka (and not too sure that coffee last night WAS actually decaf!) and some time on the net forming an impression re above hotel etc problems, had to set an alarm (almost normal) to get up in time for breakfast. Then onto the net to book the apartment thingy in Split – then discovered afterwards it was cash only which annoyed me as trying to conserve that at all costs and put all hotels and meals on credit. Particularly if I change countries soon I don’t want many Croat kunar left, or else change them into Euro or USD (half the time the country next door won’t take em). Anyway apart from the restaurant at Rijeka cannot say I saw much else! Must also say that yesterday must have been National Juvenile Drinking Day as well! (there were crowds of swilling yoof outside the hotel to step over to get out) and the action continued until much later. There was a guy with a very distinctive loud raucous laugh who was out there until after 2am and I had to close the window to shut out the racket (then I discovered the aircon unit on the wall). Left the hotel in time to stroll down the Korso shopping street mall and a bit of the Rivo (harbourside walk) to get to the bus station and bought some savoury bread type things for snacks on the bus. And then also that there was quite a pretty little pink church opposite – not mentioned in the LP guide so no idea what its name is.

So bus to Zadar – and a short walk to most expensive hotel yet at 105E. Chosen cos it was close – there are virtually no hotels in the Old City – but all the new hotels etc are in the beachside suburbs 3km or so to the North. Did not want to, for the sake of one night, acquaint myself with how to get out there and find hotel and then how to get back to the old city, the main reason for the visit, so just paid the money. What annoyed me about the room (and you can become critical at this kind of money) was that the bathroom door always drifted shut to the closed position (badly hung) and the toilet seat would/could not remain in the up position unassisted (ditto re install) – girls will not care but to blokes this is important! Considered having a dive in the pool to cool off (temps still well around 30C) but ended up not – managed to leave my own travel towel at home but would have used the hotel one here. After mucking around for too long headed towards old town for dinner. The Planet (LP) guide had recommended Fosa (the sea wall) and as this was the closest, looked serious and also took credit cards gave it a go. It was very good – but after ordering an entrée of (cold) marinated sea bass, the main course of fish steamed in a paper bag with veges arrived first. Queried this and entrée had been forgotten, so I got another glass of house white malvasija on the house. The boil in bag (or bake whatever) fish was actually searing hot so happy to scoff the entrée when they brought it on and main was still well hot.

As it was so hot it would have been great outside, but there was some heavy metal music emanating from a stage inside the city walls/ramparts closeby and I did not fancy fine food to that kind of accompaniment – so sat inside, and had schizophrenic experience of getting the metal when the glass doors to the terrace were open with waiters going out, and then middle of the road mood music in the restaurant when they were closed. The food was so nice had a glass of white tokaj (desserty-type wine) as well as a carob cake thing with “olive oil cream” – fortunately not too oily.

24 June – bus to Split
Had time before bus at 2.30pm to do quick tour of Zadar. Pix are attached. No pix of the most unusual attraction - the "sea organ" - series of pipes and chambers created by architect Nikola Basic have the sea rise and fall create these sighing sounds coming out of holes and vents in the seaside promenade pavement. It is rather unique - no wonder it is the only one in the world! The bus at 2.30 took 3 hrs – and was almost unbearably hot for a lot of it – they were running the air at one point but I think must have been saving money and turned it off. The room here was 55E. and was at least close to the bus station. But the woman whose house it was in (she is upstairs, rooms on ground floor) spoke no English which made it difficult. Decided to pay her with 100E note I had left rather than go to ATM and get more Croat Kuna. Its 3 star – cos it has wifi and aircon and own bathroom – but still seems steep for the price. Out to wander the limestone marble paving in Diocletian Palace and ate some more fish (tuna carpaccio on rocket, and sea bass on young spinach(in the Republike Sqr or whatever.

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Photos

Zadar Fosa (sea wall)
with metal band in action (see lights)

Zadar - the Fosa resto
in daylight - terrace I would have sat but for noise

Zadar sheepdog on boat
was he driving?

church at Narodny Trg
in Zadar

bus halt at Senj (?)
on way to Split

Senj harbour vue
rocky hills

a Diocletian tower
in Split

Split - Republik Trg
where I ate at back