Christmas in the Balkans - December, 2015

---

Christmas in the Balkans



It’s mid-December already and time to begin my final adventure of 2015…..another new location for yours truly – really looking forward to this one. It’s a very cold morning here in Las Vegas, with the mercury hovering around 27f, probably colder than where I’m headed over there in the Balkans.



I was checked in, cleared security and waiting for the first of my three flights to Europe by 5am. The Minneapolis flight departed on time and three hours, breakfast and a couple of bourbons later, we landed on time. I had a short connection time so hoofed it speedily thru MSP and boarded my transatlantic flight to Amsterdam just before takeoff. It was an uneventful 10-hour flight to my favorite European airport (Schipol) and I managed to watch a couple of new movies releases, Martian and Black Mass which helped pass the time between the meals and drinks being served onboard.



Amsterdam is always a treat for a few hours between flights. It’s a virtual city spread over many square meters with everything you could possibly want in the way of shopping, restaurants, currency exchanges and even a post office. Usually I have to hike from one end of this campus to the other, but this trip I landed at terminal 2F and would be departing from 2E with the actual gates less than a 10-minute slow walk apart. I had two hours to kill so the KLM Airline Lounge it was, for fresh coffee and maybe some fruit and yogurt to get my new day started. Once settled into a deep leather armchair overlooking the takeoff runways, I texted my friend who is sharing the next two weeks of fun and sightseeing with me, that I was already on the ground in Europe and would be seeing her again in a matter of hours. We originally met back last April while touring in Morocco and have remained friends and traveling buddies ever since.



A short 1.5 hour flight across a couple of EU countries and we landed early at Marco Polo Airport in Venice. Water, water everywhere – did you all know this place is surrounded by the Adriatic? It was warm, humid and sunny as we deplaned, or warm compared to the 22f back in Amsterdam – Venice was a positively balmy 45f. It’s probably one of the smaller airports I have ever been in, especially considering this is Europe and a very popular tourist destination – the place was practically deserted and we were the only flight landing at that time. I flew thru customs and immigration and headed for baggage claim where my suitcase was already riding the carousel waiting to be collected by yours truly.



Met the tour manager in the arrivals hall and had another hour to sit and kick my heels while other arriving passengers for the Balkans trip made their way from their respective flights. By 1pm we were on the road and headed for Croatia. Why Venice airport do you ask if this is a trip to the Balkans? It is the closest and most commercially viable airport for Croatia, as the border is less than 1.5 hours from Marco Polo. A delightful 4-hour drive along the Adriatic coast followed and as darkness fell, we began our descent down into the seaside town of Opatija, a gem on Croatia’s coast, nestled along the striking Gulf of Kvarner. This was once the summer gathering location for the Austro-Hungarian nobility of the 18^th, 19^th and very early 20^th centuries, and the buildings lining the main road into town, were obviously once grand houses and even summer palaces – most now are converted into hotels, museums and restaurants for the tourist crowd. We were to spend two nights at the Bristol Hotel, a beautiful converted former private residence and now a 4-star hotel on the main street. With the entire façade decorated with Christmas lights it was a sight to behold, glowing in the cool early evening twilight.



The next hour was spent unloading all the luggage, getting checked in and settling into our rooms before meeting down in the lobby for drinks and to get our planned travel itinerary for the next two weeks. I was more than ready to hit the mattress by 9pm – it had been a long two days getting here from Vegas and I needed some sleep. One thing I really don’t like about European hotels in winter time: they crank up the heat and there is no way to cool the rooms down without opening the windows, and when it’s below freezing most of the night, that presents a challenge. Back in my room it was roasting, so I threw open the windows and let the frosty night air flow in. It took at least 30 minutes for the room to become comfortable enough to sleep in – this is going to be an interesting trip, for sure.



Bright and early the following morning we all met in the downstairs restaurant for a delicious breakfast buffet before returning to the tour bus for our full day of sightseeing. I had opted to visit the Istrian Peninsula which began in the city of Pula, a strategic port since Roman times, at the southern tip of the peninsula and is Istria’s largest city. The most outstanding feature of this location is the perfectly preserved amphitheater which is identical to the Coliseum in Rome. It’s a magnificent structure and walking down into the basement areas, we saw where the gladiators and wild animals were kept before performing for the crowds. It’s in such good condition even after 2,000 years, concerts are still held here on a regular basis.



From Pula we drove to the lovely coastal town of Rovinj where we had a few hours of free time to explore the old town section of cobblestone streets and narrow alleyways. It was as though I had stepped back in time 300 hundred years. Already past lunchtime and came upon a bakery which turned out to be a very popular chain throughout Croatia, by the name of Marche. I purchased a cheese and spinach stuffed pastry which is probably the best lunch I have ever eaten! At a cost of only 10 krona (about $1.30) that with a cup of coffee, and I was ready to go for the rest of the afternoon. It was SO good, I ended up buying the same pastry for the rest of my time in the Balkans, every time I saw this particular shop…..yummy to the power of 10.



Istria (in Croatian, “Istra”) is the largest peninsula pointing down into the northern Adriatic and contains the majority of Croatian tourism at its most developed. Dotted with hotel complexes and rambling campsites which surround the compact towns of alley-hugging houses grouped around spear-belfried churches, emphasizing the essential charm of the Istrian Coast. Inland Istria is an area of rare and disarming beauty, characterized by medieval hilltop settlements and stone-built villages.



We returned to Opatija in the late afternoon to spend our final night in this delightful resort town. It was time to explore the restaurant possibilities within the city center and just a short walk down the hill from our hotel, we discovered Roko and from what we read on their menu, this would suit us perfectly. We were seated close to the large window, giving us fabulous views of the sidewalks and other shop windows all beautifully decorated with Christmas ornaments and lights of every description. A marvelous meal ensued and for the next couple of hours we dined on prawns, lamb chops, risotto, salads, olives and cheeses accompanied of course, by glasses of excellent Croatia wines. We needed the walk back uphill to our hotel after dinner, to settle all the food we had just consumed – we were stuffed to the gills!



Following a second excellent buffet breakfast the next morning, we left the Hotel Bristol in bright early morning sunshine and headed south for a long drive along the dramatic Adriatic coast to our first sightseeing stop at Zadar - a historic old city highlighted by ruins of a Roman forum, medieval churches, cosmopolitan cafes and museums. The city is an eclectic mixture of impressive Roman architecture, Habsburg elegance, and a picture-perfect seafront. From here you can see the cathedral and the church of St. Donat.



Leaving Zadar in our rear view mirrors, we continued our drive south and arrived in Split, the second largest city in Croatia which is also an UNESCO-protected seaside town. Here we were to spend one night at the Radisson Blu Resort Hotel and after checking in, we headed into town to explore. Located on the banks of the Markarsa River, Split is probably mainland Dalmatia’s most enchanting stretch of coast, with mountains glowering over a string of long pebble beaches, and dotted with small fishing villages. It’s a teeming, chaotic city with numerous cafes, restaurants and bars lining the pretty streets, all decorated in full Christmas regalia.



We walked along the cobbled streets of Split’s Old Town, featuring the historic inner city with its dominating Roman influence, built around the astonishing 4^th century palace of Diocletian. This spectacular palace is the largest and best preserved antique palace in the world. Also found inside this walled wonder are the remains of the Roman Peristyle, the unusual Cathedral of St. Domnius built in the Middle Ages, and the Temple of Jupiter with its headless black sphinx guarding the entrance.



Another early departure the next morning and now we were headed for the highlight of the entire Balkans trip – Dubrovnik aka “The Pearl of the Adriatic”. Due to its actual geographical location, we first had to cross thru Bosnia-Hercegovina which resulted in the bus stopping at their border and all the passengers getting more stamps in their passports. We were thru this tiny stretch of Bosnia is less than an hour – quickest trip I ever made to a foreign location!



A walled, sea-battered city lying at the foot of a grizzled mountain, Dubrovnik is definitely Croatia’s most popular tourist destination, and it’s not difficult to see why. An essentially medieval town reshaped by Baroque planners after a disastrous 1667 earthquake, Dubrovnik’s historic core seems to have been suspended in time ever since. Churches and public buildings blend seamlessly with the green-shuttered stone homes, forming a perfect ensemble relatively untouched by the 21^st century. Outside the city walls, suburban Dubrovnik exudes Mediterranean elegance, gardens with an explosion of colorful bougainvillea and oleanders, trees weighted down with figs, lemons, oranges and peaches.



For the Croats themselves, Dubrovnik serves as a powerful metaphor for freedom, having spent much of its history as a self-governing city-state independent of foreign powers. The city played a vital role in the war of 1991-1995, when it successfully resisted a 9-month Serbian-Montenegrin siege. Reconstruction was undertaken with astonishing speed, and the fact that conflict took place here at all, only reveals itself thru very subtle details: the vivid orange-red hues of brand-new roof files, or the contrasting shades of grey where damaged facades have been patched up with freshly-quarried stone.



In spite of the fact more than half of the city’s hotels are closed from November thru March, it is still considered a year-round tourist destination. Our hotel was a short bus ride to the city center and was located right on the shores of a beautiful bay, which captured the morning sunrise to perfection. A brand new building with all rooms sporting balconies overlooking this bay and super modern furnishings throughout.



Dubrovnik isn’t as large as you may think and although it sprawls along the coast for several miles, its real heart is the compact Old Town. Walking the circuit of the city walls is the one attraction not to be missed, but be prepared for MANY steps and sleep slopes – I got my cardio workout for the month, walking this 1.5 mile circuit! But the views are virtually indescribable – you will have to view all my photos to understand exactly what I mean. It is without a doubt, one of the most incredible sights ever – photos struggle to do it justice.



Exhausted from our hike on the city walls, we found an open-air café in the heart of Old Town and settled down to consume a jug of local Croatia beer, plates of spicy sausage, olives and warm bread – heaven on a table top. Once lunch was finished, we decided to see Dubrovnik from another perspective, so headed to the harbor and hired a motorboat for an hour’s cruise along the coast and around the islands in the bay. It was simply wonderful – just 4 of us in the boat plus the driver and we got to see the walled Old City from the water, the amazing coastal road lined with luxury hotels, and on the far side of the one of the islands, ruins from ancient times. Apparently this “backside” of the island is a very popular nudist colony during summer months – too bad it was December when I was there!



A little history about this fabulous city: Dubrovnik was first settled in the early 7^th century by Greco-Roman refugees from the nearby ancient city of Eqidauros (now called Cavtat), which was sacked by the Slavs. These refugees took up residence in the southern part of what is now Old Town, than an island known as Laus – a name which later metamorphosed into Ragusa. The Slavs meanwhile, settled on the mainland opposite from which the name Dubrovnik (from dubrava, meaning “glade”) comes. Over time the slim channel between the two land masses filled in and the two sides merged, producing what is now the city we know. Initially subject to Byzantium, the city came under Venetian control in 1204. The Venetians stayed until 1358 when they were squeezed out of the southern Adriatic by Louis of Hungary. At that time, Dubrovnik officially became a vassal of the Hungaro-Croatian kingdom and eventually became an independent city-state.



Dubrovnik enhanced its reputation for cultural chic with the inception in 1949 of the Dubrovnik Festival, one of Europe’s most prestigious, and with the construction of big hotel complexes to the south, helped make the city one of the most popular tourist destinations in Yugoslavia in the 1970’s and 80’s. After repairing all the damage done during the recent siege, Dubrovnik quickly recovered its position as Croatia’s premier vacation spot.



The next morning was a full day sightseeing tour to Montenegro “the Jewel of the Mediterranean” nestled on the coast, and another opportunity to add stamps to my passport. Once we cleared the border, we drove towards the stunning Bay of Kotor, the longest and deepest fjord in southern Europe. We arrived mid-morning at the charming coastal town of Perast where a short boat ride transported us to the 15^th century “Our Lady of the Rocks” Church, perched on an islet in the middle of the bay. We spent a couple of hours exploring this incredible building, admiring the marble altar, fine paintings, silver plaques and panoramic views across the water to the surrounding mountain range.



Back in Perast, we climbed aboard the bus once more and headed to the capital city of Kotor surrounded by old fortress walls and another UNESCO world heritage site. The afternoon was free to wander and explore this interesting city, but as I had had all the “old towns and medieval villages” I can handle for this trip, I needed a break. What better place to spend a lazy 2 hours than a small restaurant I discovered in a back alley. No one else was inside the small, highly decorated bar and the owner was eager to serve delicious food and chilled wine….this is my idea of exploration!



By 4pm we gathered outside Kotor’s ancient city walls and made our way back to the bus for the 2-hour drive back to Dubrovnik to spend our final night there. At the Montenegro border, this time we all had to leave the bus and enter the immigration building….what a riot….first we present our passports to the Montenegro customs officer who doesn’t even look at it, simply flips to an empty page to stamp it and hands it back. We then walk less than 4’ to the next window, where the Croatian customs officer does exactly the same procedure! How nuts is this? Too funny. So far, I’ve collected 7 passport stamps on 3 different pages from 3 small European countries – think it’s an ego problem here or what? LOL



The next day it’s another early morning start for the long drive back north to the capital of Croatia, Zagreb, largest city in the Republic. Most of the day will be spent on the road at Zagreb is about 350 miles away but thankfully we will be making an interesting lunch stop enroute.



As we approached lunchtime in the central Dalmatia region, we pulled off the main highway and stopped at “Etnoland”. And what is this place, you ask? Think of it as Croatia’s answer to Disneyland but much smaller and honestly, much more interesting overall. The entire experience begins with warm greetings from the “lady of the house” in full costume of the region. She and her husband developed this site years ago to honor their customs and traditions – now it’s a major tourist site. You walk with her as a group thru a series of rooms in one long log house, each designed to reflect what they would have looked like 200 years ago. First the kitchen, followed by the main living room, the scullery and finally the bedroom – every detail has been extensively researched…..see my photos. She gives a verbal history of life in the region and explains the various items in daily use, to be found in each room. This lasts about 30 minutes and then we are led into the main building where we are to have lunch.



The food was simply incredible! It is cooked in the “peka” way (think tandoori, under clay) and the lamb is cooked to perfection, served with root vegetables from her garden. We had a choice of local beer, wine or soda….needless to say, I went for the white wine. We sat at wooden tables with bench seats and the food was brought to table on huge platters (no menu here!). We could hardly move to walk outside by the time we finished eating……fantastic. If anyone is interested in knowing more about this, check out their website at www.dalmati.com



We all waddle back to the bus for the final drive into Zagreb and arrive at the Hotel Westin just after dark. It had been a very long day, what with the 8+ hours of highway driving, the incredible lunch at Etnoland – I was more than ready to crash and get a great night’s sleep, which is exactly what I did.



Next morning we began with a driving tour of the city center, followed by an extensive walking tour of the Old Town. The city is divided into 3 parts: (1) the 1000-year old Gornji Grad (Upper Town) which contains the Presidential Palace, the iconic St. Mark’s Church, the Croatian Parliament, museums and galleries which are all set in cobbled streets lit by gas lamps. (2) the 19^th century Donji Grad ( ower Town) with its shops, restaurants, cafes, theatres and parks, and finally (3) the modern, post WWII area of Novi Zagreb (new Zagreb) which is full of high-rise buildings….not really much to see for tourists. It still has the look and feel of the Soviet occupation.



As we were walking around it got noticeably colder and colder…..definitely the coldest day so far since I arrived in country. Very overcast skies, heavy mist hanging suspended over the city – thankfully no wind or it would have really been miserable. I really wasn’t sorry when the tour of Zagreb came to an end….I was frozen half to death!



After a quick lunch of spicy sausage from a roadside vendor, the bus was ready to roll once more and we were off to cross yet another border and enter Slovenia, the 5^th country so far and of course, more passport stamps. We were headed to the lovely city of Bled, exquisitely set on the shores of Lake Bled amidst the Julian Alps. Bled, with its rich natural beauty, ranks among the world’s most beautiful alpine resorts and is also renowned for its mild healing climate and its thermal lake waters. However, by the time we arrived just after dark, it was freezing cold with the mercury hovering around 26f. We checked into the Park Hotel located right on the shores of the lake with stunning views across to the mountain range and Bled Castle.



Being Christmas Eve we were treated to a very special evening, and after checking in and getting settled, we all reassembled in the lobby to be driven to the tiny medieval town of Radovijica, where we would be celebrating the holiday and eating an authentic Slovenian dinner (with wine of course!). I doubt the village had more than 600 residents are the most, but it was beautifully decorated for the season and walking down the main street to the restaurant, I could almost imagine I had been transported back in time 200 or 300 years. It was gorgeous……see my photos.



We were greeted at the door by the owners in full regional costumes and escorted down into the wine cellar where we were entertained with music, dancing, wine, cheese and spicy sausages….no, this wasn’t dinner, these were simply the “starters”. An hour later we returned to the first floor and were seated in a private room to begin the 4-course dinner. It was a parade of traditional Slovenian dishes, heavy on the cabbage, root vegetables, meats and totally delicious. Wine was flowing like water and I certainly had more than my share! No one was sober by the time we left around 10pm that evening to walk back thru the village to the bus.



We started Christmas Day with a tour which included the 11^th century Bled Castle, the city’s most famous landmark, perched on a steep cliff face high above the lake, creating a dramatic backdrop to the city. This is a true medieval fortress with its huge towers, ramparts, a moat and a terrace offering the most breathtaking views for miles around. It is one of the oldest castles in Slovenia and was first mentioned in a written document on May 22, 1011 as the German king Henry II awarded it to the Bishop Albuien of Brixen as a residence.



The hike up to the castle just about did most of us in….talk about a cardio workout – I expected to drop dead by the time I reached the summit and it took a good 15 minutes to catch my breath, but the experience and the stunning views made up for it. A hot air balloon was sailing over the lake and the mountains while I watched from the castle terrace – I was able to capture some of the most fantastic photos. That high up above the lake, the air was so cold, clear and pure….snows on the surrounding mountain peaks sparkled in the morning sunlight, and mists were curling above the water’s surface, slowing burning off as the sun rose high in the sky. In the middle of the lake sits tiny Bled Island, the site of a 9^th century Christian church.



Our last full day in the Balkans dawned very cold, crystal clear with brilliant sunshine and today we explored Slovenia’s capital city: Ljubljana, just a short hour’s drive from Bled. Again another walking tour which included the most significant sights of the old city center, with its unique blend of baroque and art nouveau architecture. We first stopped at the open-air market and continued on to the Three Bridges Square, the Town Hall and Robba Fountain – one of the city’s best known monuments and modeled after famous Roman fountains.



And so my Balkan adventure slowly came to a close. We returned to Bled that afternoon to relax around the hotel and spend our last night in this magical lakeshore town. Tomorrow we leave for Venice and that is where my next sojourn will begin (see my separate blog for that trip). It’s been fantastic and I will definitely return to Croatia in the future.

---