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Published: June 19th 2012
58 steps UP
Our apartment in the old town of Dubrovnik
We had breakfast in the cafeteria aboard ship at 6 am. Surprisingly it was eggs, meat, cheese, toast, cereal, juices and coffee! Promptly at 6:30, our young porter arrived and carried our bags up two flights of stairs. He put them by the exit and told us not to worry about them; they were too heavy for any one to steal! I agree!
We got off the ferry and went through customs. They stamped the passports, which did not happen in Italy. As instructed by Ivana, we got a cab for 10 euro which dropped us off at the Buza gate. Ivana was waiting for us to take us to our “sobe”, a room with cooking facilities in a private home. Ivana Raic, age 30, and her sister, Anita, age 38, run a beautiful facility here in Dubrovnik, with AC, WIFI, TV with English CNN, great shower, nice tiny kitchen with 2 burners and a tiny fridge, as well as lots of information and advice from the two. We have a table and 2 chairs and a really comfortable bed and COLD AC.
Ivana took us for “white coffee” with half milk at the corner
café. It was wonderful. She oriented us to the town and surroundings. She made reservations for us at the Komarda Restaurant, over looking the Adriatic, at 8:00 pm for the grilled lamb, which has to be ordered ahead.
We agreed to meet sister Anita at 11:00 am to check in, and explored the town. This was my mother-in-law Berenice Wanless’s favorite place in the world. It is quite enchanting, until around 10:00 am when 9000 cruise tourists swarm through the town!!! We walked around all the churches and ended up ouside the city wall on a rock with a café… wonderful view, had waters, loved it. Maybe we’ll try it again.
We checked in, and got settled in our sobe. Anita suggested the Tobasco Pizzeria near the tram station, so we went there for lunch. The pizzas were made on a wood fire, and were fabulous. Lots of cats hanging around here for leftovers, and, actually, there are many many cats all over this town.
We went to the top of the mountain, Mt. Srd, on the tram. There is a fort there, built by Napoleon, which now houses a museum
about the war of 1991. The fortress was shelled and damaged multiple times, and served as a symbol of strength to the besieged town of Dubrovnik. There was an exhibit of “Dubrovnik during the homeland war”, which was very worthwhile. During the war, the house we are staying in took a direct hit from a bomb or mortar shell. The roof had to be replaced, but the structure was in tact. As you look down on the town, you realize that all the bright orange roofs are new due to war damage…. and that would be at least 90%!
There was a cafe at the top of the tram, and we had a beer overlooking the bay and town… what a magnificent view. Gary calls it “The End of the World #2” (#1 is on Isla Mujeres). Bucket list.
We went home and got ready for the Komarda Restaurant, a few minutes walk out the gate and past the harbor. It has an amazing view of the harbor, and we enjoyed watching the sunset over two cruise ships. We had lamb grilled over a pit, wonderful and lots of it. We also had ensalada
mista, potatoes, onions, bread, wine, grappa, and cherry digestive. What a lovely evening, probably our most expensive of the trip.
It was quite Hot Hot today, around 92 or 93. The AC is really needed for sleeping here. We are not used to this heat.
Dubrovnik is not cheap… Rick Steves says it is a disappointment because of what you get for your money. I would agree that food here is the most expensive of the trip... even groceries!
Below are more photos.
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